71 RS - abandoned 23 years

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by Chuck71RS, Nov 24, 2012.

  1. xten

    xten Veteran Member

    745
    246
    Sep 24, 2014
    Pittsburgh, Pa.
    Those are definitely a pita Chuck. Never liked doing that. Especially after installing Moroso Trick springs. I think I know why they're called trick springs. Wish I knew what the trick was to get them in. I think it's 2 different compressors and a 4' digging bar. Glad you got them in safely. How bout a pic of the finished product? Now you can get on to other things you were doing. How's the Vintage Air coming?
     
  2. BillyDean7173

    BillyDean7173 Veteran Member

    392
    45
    May 21, 2014
    Hutto, TX
    Great job on the springs, Chuck! Glad you didn't get hurt.
    She's coming along really nice and I like the front spoiler idea.
     
  3. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    990
    24
    Nov 24, 2012
    Houston, Texas
    Front end with suspension completed
    100_6509.JPG
    Radiator got a refresh also.
    Cleaned up the brass bushings for the trans lines and the lines also
    100_6518.JPG

    Even Refinished the rusty front calipers
    100_6525.JPG


    Rad support - all front brackets finished
    ***** The last pieces - headlight brackets
    : The finish was ok but with the others brackets-braces refinished they looked like crud. Even cleaned the black paint of the white plastic fasteners for the headlight adjustment. These brackets are an example of my "look good but not show", for the surfaces were not sanded smooth and there are a couple of runs (which are not visible) Thought about painting them to look like eye sockets for that is what they remind me of
    100_6519.JPG


    Refinishing all the brackets on the front side was not practical for they won't be seen with the font end on but I will know the condition.
    100_6520.JPG

    Radiator Support - Hood latch would not bolt up:
    The two install holes in the hood latch have a span of 5" but the threaded holes in the "X" support from AMD are 4 1/2" apart. Also found the holes were not equal distance from the center hole for the cover panel over the radiator. Further this hole is not in the center of the support. Only way to know for certain where the latch needed to be attached was to put the hood on.

    The hood has not been on the car since it was removed in November 2012 to pull the engine and transmission. The fenders (which were off the car) were installed and two neighbors helped place the hood on the rubber bumpers in the fender jams (no hood hinge). Both latch holes were 1/4" outward from their support hole so elongated the latch holes with the drill.

    No hood clearance: While the hood was on, saw the hood was sitting on the front edge of the air cleaner. Edlebrock (during purchase and install) assured me the 1406 carb and 2701 (Performer EPS) would fit. What was forgotten was the 3/8" heat soak gasket. During the early runnings the car would die and not restart or after stopping would not start for a while. Put the heat soak gasket on and both problems did not reoccur

    Drop Base will not fit: So said Edelbrock because of the automatic choke. Checked with several makers of drop bases and was told the same thing.

    Hood clearance now with new air cleaner: The 1979 Mr Gasket top cover is concave with the highest point on the outer edge where the hood was hitting. I saw present air cleaners are flat at the outer edge and high in the center so maybe this style might work. Purchased a Proform Parts 66804 which is 7/16" shorter at the outside edge of the top cover. Still a 2" tall element but at least the hood will close. (2 1/4" might fit but will wait until the hold is on the hinges). With the formula of the forum to determine filter surface, 2 inch is good up to 5,000 rpm which is above where I will be.

    Still want to paint the new cleaner Chevy Orange but will leave it chrome for now. Still have the 1979 Mr Gasket three point wing nut which is orange in the center
    100_6521.JPG

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    No good - 4 brake hose sets: The replacement at the start of the rebuild was to short but did no realize it then. The last three, to short, one not having all the parts and the other not fitting far enough through the support bracket on the frame to insert the clip. Still have more to try before modifying the bracket

    Found bad wheel bearing: with the rotors off to rebuild front end, rechecked the wheel bearings. Had been hearing a noise from the front when car was moving. Found an inner wheel bearing had an indent on the outer edge over 4 bearings. The rotors are new with only a couple miles at best on the street in front of the house. The race shows no damage, even under a magnifying glass. Looked at what was involved to remove and install a race. Opted to not to replace. New seals and the bearing on order

    I'm fixing a leak for the oil gets out and stops my mind from wandering: This will be the third attempt with all at the rear from the drain hole in the trans bell house cover
    1. long block rebuild included a 4-piece gasket and oil pan install. Started leaking not long after first engine start
    2. Replaced with Fel-pro 1 piece DuraDryPlus + 2900 rear main seal. Dry for a while then leaked again
    3. Removed oil pan, replaced rear seal, reinstall same gasket, still leak

    Ordered new the same Fel-pro gasket (DuraDryPlus) but a newer seal. Call Fel-pro for recommendations
     

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