71 RS - abandoned 23 years

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by Chuck71RS, Nov 24, 2012.

  1. xten

    xten Veteran Member

    Sep 24, 2014
    Pittsburgh, Pa.
    Those are definitely a pita Chuck. Never liked doing that. Especially after installing Moroso Trick springs. I think I know why they're called trick springs. Wish I knew what the trick was to get them in. I think it's 2 different compressors and a 4' digging bar. Glad you got them in safely. How bout a pic of the finished product? Now you can get on to other things you were doing. How's the Vintage Air coming?
  2. BillyDean7173

    BillyDean7173 Veteran Member

    May 21, 2014
    Hutto, TX
    Great job on the springs, Chuck! Glad you didn't get hurt.
    She's coming along really nice and I like the front spoiler idea.
  3. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Nov 24, 2012
    Houston, Texas
    Front end with suspension completed
    Radiator got a refresh also.
    Cleaned up the brass bushings for the trans lines and the lines also

    Even Refinished the rusty front calipers

    Rad support - all front brackets finished
    ***** The last pieces - headlight brackets
    : The finish was ok but with the others brackets-braces refinished they looked like crud. Even cleaned the black paint of the white plastic fasteners for the headlight adjustment. These brackets are an example of my "look good but not show", for the surfaces were not sanded smooth and there are a couple of runs (which are not visible) Thought about painting them to look like eye sockets for that is what they remind me of

    Refinishing all the brackets on the front side was not practical for they won't be seen with the font end on but I will know the condition.

    Radiator Support - Hood latch would not bolt up:
    The two install holes in the hood latch have a span of 5" but the threaded holes in the "X" support from AMD are 4 1/2" apart. Also found the holes were not equal distance from the center hole for the cover panel over the radiator. Further this hole is not in the center of the support. Only way to know for certain where the latch needed to be attached was to put the hood on.

    The hood has not been on the car since it was removed in November 2012 to pull the engine and transmission. The fenders (which were off the car) were installed and two neighbors helped place the hood on the rubber bumpers in the fender jams (no hood hinge). Both latch holes were 1/4" outward from their support hole so elongated the latch holes with the drill.

    No hood clearance: While the hood was on, saw the hood was sitting on the front edge of the air cleaner. Edlebrock (during purchase and install) assured me the 1406 carb and 2701 (Performer EPS) would fit. What was forgotten was the 3/8" heat soak gasket. During the early runnings the car would die and not restart or after stopping would not start for a while. Put the heat soak gasket on and both problems did not reoccur

    Drop Base will not fit: So said Edelbrock because of the automatic choke. Checked with several makers of drop bases and was told the same thing.

    Hood clearance now with new air cleaner: The 1979 Mr Gasket top cover is concave with the highest point on the outer edge where the hood was hitting. I saw present air cleaners are flat at the outer edge and high in the center so maybe this style might work. Purchased a Proform Parts 66804 which is 7/16" shorter at the outside edge of the top cover. Still a 2" tall element but at least the hood will close. (2 1/4" might fit but will wait until the hold is on the hinges). With the formula of the forum to determine filter surface, 2 inch is good up to 5,000 rpm which is above where I will be.

    Still want to paint the new cleaner Chevy Orange but will leave it chrome for now. Still have the 1979 Mr Gasket three point wing nut which is orange in the center



    No good - 4 brake hose sets: The replacement at the start of the rebuild was to short but did no realize it then. The last three, to short, one not having all the parts and the other not fitting far enough through the support bracket on the frame to insert the clip. Still have more to try before modifying the bracket

    Found bad wheel bearing: with the rotors off to rebuild front end, rechecked the wheel bearings. Had been hearing a noise from the front when car was moving. Found an inner wheel bearing had an indent on the outer edge over 4 bearings. The rotors are new with only a couple miles at best on the street in front of the house. The race shows no damage, even under a magnifying glass. Looked at what was involved to remove and install a race. Opted to not to replace. New seals and the bearing on order

    I'm fixing a leak for the oil gets out and stops my mind from wandering: This will be the third attempt with all at the rear from the drain hole in the trans bell house cover
    1. long block rebuild included a 4-piece gasket and oil pan install. Started leaking not long after first engine start
    2. Replaced with Fel-pro 1 piece DuraDryPlus + 2900 rear main seal. Dry for a while then leaked again
    3. Removed oil pan, replaced rear seal, reinstall same gasket, still leak

    Ordered new the same Fel-pro gasket (DuraDryPlus) but a newer seal. Call Fel-pro for recommendations

    Attached Files:

  4. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Nov 24, 2012
    Houston, Texas
    4th try - no rear main seal oil leak: What a mess getting here and I discovered yet another gremlin from 30 years ago. A new Fel-pro 1-piece oil pan gasket(Fel-pro tech OS34509T) had a massive oil leak from the front
    seal. Confussing for the previous PermaDry Plus gasket did not leak. Called
    Fel-Pro tech and the 09T (thin seal) is right. The problem goes back to 1986 when a Chevy dealship sold me an oil pan that was not for a thin seal 1971 but one needing the thick seal. Kept the same oil pan and installed the 10T (thick front seal).

    More Camaro "Decorations" on the walls in the inner sanctum: Old parts that have been replaced with most having a story behind them. Posted some photos in the "BS Topics" but added a lot more since then

    The original instrument housing with my attempts to make three metal tabs. Being on the wall, obvious the tabs did not work


    The bracket below the throttle cable is the support for the glove box. Glove box is not being installed. The 1969 TEAC tape deck still plays and records.

    The two objects below the orange air cleaner cover are the am radio knobs. The metal box above the 1960s bullet lamp is part of an Accel electronic ignition installed in 1979

    Vintage Air ac is now installed. Just needs vacuum and charging.

    ****Vintage Air is a top notch company. Several problems including pulley alignment and fitting the evaporator case were resolved by the VP Rick Love. He has a 1972 Camaro. The factory set up on my Camaro was a total surprise to VA for they never encountered my configuration before. He provided me with the 2-groove pulley.

    Getting the evaporator case to fit and securly took many phone calls and emails with photos. He offered to have a VA dealer install it. Even offered to come to the house himself (A 360 mile round trip). Came down to needing a different upper bracket that he had VA custom make

    The true quality of a company is what they do (or don't do) after the sale. VA is a good example of a top notch operation.

    The final stereo configuration is in.
    Like so much of the rebuild it was a problem but the results were worth it. It sounds great and I just love the equalizer. It fits great and looks great with the lights on and the receiver above. The 400hz filter removes frequencies below 400hz from the front speakers. When the AUX is not used, the cable is unplugged from the receiver tucks into the console out of view

    Both amps were able to remain in the area of the glove box (which won't be installed). Measurements for planning the install of the VA evaporator showed they would not fit. The amps are held in place by sliding the amp footers into the horizontal rail at the bottom of the dash. The other side is supported against the evap case. Talk about close. If the amps had been even a 1/2" wider they would not have fitted. Saves me from have to run 8gauge power wire and remote turn on wire to the trunk

    The Pioneer has cd and USB but also using an mp3 player for it has better navigation. Modified the console to install a 3.5mm stereo cable with the mp3 player in the console storage.

    On the right of the eq is a toggle switch to turn on-off the remote turn on for the eq and amps 100_6614.JPG
    Hole drilled for the cable to go into the console storage


    Console rear light wiring modified: additional wire added to the rear section so the back section can be removed. Used bullet connections on the wiring. Easier to install the two mounting at the back of the console storage
  5. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Nov 24, 2012
    Houston, Texas
    With door closed passenger window rolls all the way up. New Metro seals for both doors and roof rails. Had not been able to roll up the window that last bit with the door closed. Lubrication was not the answer for there was to much material for the glass to compress. With the below tool, removed a nice little pile of material from the front ends of both seals (roof seal the most).

    A solid seal all the way round. From the B-pilar forward to the front end, the window edge is behind and above the outer edgeof the seal. So when water comes off the vinyl top onto the seal, it will only be on the outside of the window.

    Still working on aligning the hood. Not since November 2012 has the hood been bolted to the hood hinges. Also the first time since 1979, the hood
    does not hit air cleaner

    Replaced the driver hood hinge. Bought an ebay hinge from The Camaro Place but almost half of bottom of one main pivot head was through the surface of the hinge metal. Returned it and was sent a better one.

    The alignment at the windshield and both fenders is good but the gap at the front with the header is a problem. The passenger side gap is good from the corner to where the hood curves down ward. Driver side area though has a huge gap. Maybe the aftermarket radiator support is the use. Maybe the replacement frame mounts are not right

    The lighting yielded this pretty cool photo. Wish I have the resolution higher for a print that I could frame. Tried several times but never came close
  6. wnmech

    wnmech Veteran Member

    Jul 20, 2014
    grand prairie tx.
    You are getting to be a real artist. Great progress. Are you hoping for a spring completion?
  7. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Nov 24, 2012
    Houston, Texas
    Thanks Richard - Spring should be completion

    Once the driver window rolls all the way up and down and the hood is aligned will start the final phase, that being bodywork-paint. Had planned to start the bodywork by the first of November. Not going to sand to bare metal so I can have all the bodywork done for spring painting without rusting.
  8. Da-bigguy

    Da-bigguy Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Jan 19, 2010
    Cypress, TX
    Chuck, Looking fantastic! I'm glad to hear that Vintage Air is being so supportive, definitely the sign of a great company! That makes me more inclined to go with their system for my Camaro.
  9. DrPepper

    DrPepper Veteran Member

    Aug 29, 2017
    Central VA
    Chuck, your car is looking good.
    Question: When you removed the OE A/C condenser from the core support, what did you do w/ the 2 brackets that attached the condenser to the core support? These are attached to the core support and the condenser attaches to them.
    I'm in the middle of a restoration and I need those 2 brackets to mount the OE condenser.
    If you still have them, I'd like to buy them from you.
  10. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Nov 24, 2012
    Houston, Texas
    Playing "Benefit" (2013 Wilson remix) - Jethro Tull. One of the few albums that I like every track

    Both windows now roll up with the door closed:
    As with the passenger side, removed a nice pile of material from the driver side window and door weather seals.

    Hood is now aligned: I tried to keep notes of what I did but tried so many variations the notes became unless


    Nose fit is good: Could have been better but the A/M rad support prevented anything better. The holes in the driver side nose brace were way low because of the bolt holes in the rad support. Elongated the holes to raise the driver side height but was not enough metal. Started elongating with the drill but a bit broke and the jaws clamped down so hard I not back it off. Should have done it with the Dremel. Oh Well

    100_6738.JPG 100_6739.JPG

    Rad Support Problems: The "X" from AMD
    • The holes for the hood striker place were off
    • The openings for the two out bolt holes on the rad cover plate were not threaded
    • Both vertical threaded fasteners (for horizontal bolt) broke before reaching 50lbs torque (manual calls for 60-80). Used a different bolt with lock washer and nut.
    • Driver bumper brace had to be notched for the nose brace to fit again the rad support

    Removed the front spoiler
    • Didn't like the shape of the spoiler in relation to the rest of the front end.
    • Don't want to deal with chipping paint.
    • Would not like it all black
    Function: Supposed to help plant the tires and high speed but I never had steering-ride problems on the freeways. Maybe high speed is above this level

    Change in painting plan:
    • I will only paint what can not be seen (hood jams, hood edge, cowl, door jams, trunk jams and underside of trunk lid). Use spray cans of SEM High Build Surfacer Primer and PPG Acrylic Enamel. Earlier in the build I tried the above on the driver side hood jam and had good results.
    • The exterior will be at a shop to be determined (I will still do the body work and sanding)
    As Dirty Harry said, A man's gotta know his limitations". No matter how much I practice, the odds are to great the finish will be covered with inconsistencies. Keeping a consistent gun speed, distance and overlap not possible for me. Never been very coordinated.

    My paint part and shop prep will cost $600. My estimated to paint the entire car was $2,000

    Hoping shop cost will be $3,000 or so for urethane enamel. With the vinyl top there is less work to do.

    Putting Christine back together to drive to shops for estimates. Had not planned to do this until after I had painted the entire car. Got to get busy getting the Camaro registered again and insurance.

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