71 RS - abandoned 23 years

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by Chuck71RS, Nov 24, 2012.

  1. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    990
    24
    Nov 24, 2012
    Houston, Texas
    Going: Feel like I am looking into a long lost tomb or a nuclear fallout shelter
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    Gone: Never removed the evaporator case before. The bottom case rear fastener was a pain to get to. Did not want to gorilla or cut the case out
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    Out with the old
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    in with the new
    Replacing the factory ac with Vintage Air IV Gen Sure Fit. Original plan was to replace only the engine compartment factory freon. Pricing everything, cost ranged from $1,000 to $1,400. Went looking for options and it was VA. Knew nothing of VA but had read some about in on the forum. Very impressive for pretty much the same price as only the factory freon in the engine compartment, getting a complete new system designed for 134a, more efficient. In addition, will get something that actually fits. Before buying read the VA 28 page installation pdf and watched a YT of one going into a 81 Camaro. Emailed questions to VA. Pretty much a tab a into slot b with no special tools or technical knowledge needed. Felt comfortable parting with the cash and doing it myself.

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    Two amps have to move to the trunk: Not enough room in the glove box area with the new ac install

    Something else missing:
    While removing the factory ac, decided to remove the radiator core support for some metal work. Good shape overall but two areas (not to large) have weak metal. Monday, will take it to a couple of shops for options. Get it done now of never. Even it the work costs more than a repro, don't want a repro for what I have read on the forum their fit is not that good. So fix the original.
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    Last edited: May 20, 2017
  2. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    990
    24
    Nov 24, 2012
    Houston, Texas
    Have not been able to do much since 23 May when I had a disagreement with a table saw. Needless to say I lost but the damage was the least sever I could have gotten away with. Have a 1/2" diameter circle (more or less) abrasion that removed a couple layers of skin. Had my thumb been over even an 1/8" more.......scary to think about. No more till new skin growth is complete

    Dome Light: 211 Incandescent vs LED (1970 Camaro of member 70 Proof)

    - - - 211: 159 lumens
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    - - - LED: 570 lumens with Luyed 3014 48-EX. (Will purchase the same when I come up with more items for Amazon free shipping) Quite bright but I want light to read by and not for a cool look. The lumination doen't require the console light but will put the same LED there (inplace of the 212) just to have the fixture working.
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    AC - Vintage Air
    - compressor
    12 pounds vs A6 at 32
    - - - length
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    - - - Height
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    - - - Width
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    - Condenser
    - - - front: VA 4 1/2" narrower
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    - - - side: 7/8" VA vs 1 7/8 factory
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    Finally - the stereo I want being a modern receiver connected to the 1986 Kenwood eq (with the two 1986 Kenwood amps). Will play from USB with up to 500 folders up to 15,000 files.

    Previous attempts using RCA-to-DIN adapters did not work so I settled for an mp3 player going through a cassette adapter in a 31 year old Kenwood cassette-radio.

    During an Ebay search of old Kenwood I saw the same eq as mine but wired for RCA (in and both outs). Bench testing the eq with the rest of the stereo was successful but a single pop came out of all four speakers when
    - - receiver turned on
    - - cd inserted
    - - volume turned down to "00"
    - - volume turned up from "00"
    - - cd ejected
    - - receiver turned off

    The source has to be the receiver for it did not happen with the old Kenwood cassette-radio. The pop still happens with the outputs disconnected so the problem is coming through the turn on wire. Inserted a toggle switch which prevents all pop conditions getting beyond the receiver except for volume to and from "00" but this is not a problem for it will never be at this level. Would like to eliminate the cause of the pop but even finding the cause is to daunting. So I pronounced the hybrid stereo ready for install and enjoyment, after the new ac is installed.

    - - - Heart of the stereo. The front compensator enables me to hear the music how I want it to sound
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    - - - The amps on a platform being made for mounting in the trunk, 3 lbs each at 6 x 6 x 2 1/2
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    Replaced - Radiator Core Support: In my previous update, I was going to have it repaired. Thought it might cost $300 but two shops gave an estimate of $600 (maybe more) and the other a firm price of $650. Went back through the forum and found references to members having a good fit with AMD and Goodmark (no bending or cutting). JThomas passed on Goodmark and AMD are made by the same Taiwan company. A partial fit shows good results at both fenders, frame and driver inner fenderwell. Passenger well is out for ac install and front panels removed to remove the support. .

    The EDP is bonded well to the support for none came off on a white rag wet with lacquer thinner. Will paint with Dupli-Color engine enamel as the fenderwells, firewall, frame and hood.

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    brooksman9 likes this.
  3. Da-bigguy

    Da-bigguy Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    3,050
    22
    Jan 19, 2010
    Cypress, TX
    Sorry to hear about your little tussle with the saw, glad to hear it wasn't too serious! I'm looking forward to seeing you make more progress on your car!
     
  4. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    990
    24
    Nov 24, 2012
    Houston, Texas
    Thumb healed sufficiently to get back to Christine

    Mission Creep" has struck again with a refresh paint of the just about every painted surface in the engine compartment. The origin of the creep was painting the new radiator support (Duplicolor DE 1635 semi gloss black). Next came the removal of the ac evap case in the engine for replacement with the Vintage Air ac system. The unfinished firewall surface needed to be painted and it was (DE1635) which also involved removing the fender. The surface was a stark contrast to the 1635 on the driver half back in 2013 so the driver side was refreshed, with the fender removed.

    With the humidity and temperature, limited to two one hour (and a bit) periods per day. The Duplicolor and VHT engine enamel has to be recoated within one hour or after 7 days

    Radiator support opening enlarged from 20 1/2" to 26 1/4" with a thin metal cutting wheel on a 4 1/2" grinder, some grinding on the curves, bit of file and 60grit sand.. Horizontal and vertical edges came out pretty straight. Never did such metal work before. Was kinda fun and gratifying. Would have preferred US metal but the fit is good and the EDP well bonded. Could not justify to myself paying $650 to have my original repaired.

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    Firewall:
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    Looking over the rest of the compartment came to the realization that with the fresh paint at front and back, everything else needed a refresh due to various spills and surface dings. Not building a show car but I want an appearance that will be free of defects as much as possible. Doubt it will last long but a one time show is good enough. Remaining is to refinish a few bad areas on a couple refinished parts, the wire looms and the front-to-back frame halves.

    No wiffe to scream at me
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    Radiator top plate (still has traces of the old instruction on the right. Needs more work)
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    Various other parts
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    Brackets on forward side of radiator support were painted with VTP SP650 (gloss black epoxy)
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    Fan Shroud: Painted with Krylon Fusion Gloss Black. More gloss than I wanted but Satin was to close to flat)
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    Valve cover: The first cover has some areas with small bubbles. On the second cover, discovered the aerosol drastically lowered the temperature of the metal so maybe the bubbles are moisture?
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    Both inner fenders refinished but did not take a photo

    Engine Front
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    Headers: (painted both sided)

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    Front view:
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    Brake parts - Use VHT SP 997 (Nu-Cast Iron). When purchased, did not want to paint to avoid warranty void. Seeing that rusty surface of the master cylinder and the slightly rusty booster lead to form over function so they were painted. Just enough color for contrast but not overwhelming

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    Front Suspension: Just started. A mixed bag of doing now what I had planned for later along some parts that I had not planned to replace. All parts will be Moog. The control arms, will replace the bumpers, bushings and control shaft arm. The bushings still seem to be ok but they are 30 years old so how will they be 5 to 10 years and more down the road? They are cheap and easy to get to right now. The control shaft arms are 116,000 miles old. Not to expensive and easy to replace now. The coil springs need to be removed to determine what is installed. In 1985 I asked for Z-28 springs not knowing what they are or if that is even what I got
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2017
  5. xten

    xten Veteran Member

    745
    247
    Sep 24, 2014
    Pittsburgh, Pa.
    Considering the injury, you got quite a lot done, Chuck. That's going to look great when put back together. Quite a few "might-as-wells" there for starting out with HVAC!
     
  6. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    990
    24
    Nov 24, 2012
    Houston, Texas
    Photos will be uploaded through the forum

    Houston summer has been in full force with temperature and humidity but I am out there in it. Got to keep going. When I can, out in the garage by 5:30 while still somewhat cool but the humidity % is still in the 80s. Shower 2-3 times a day and wash clothes every 2 days or so..

    Standard valve covers for a 350ci Rallysport.
    Refreshed the valve cover with semi-gloss black engine enamel (Duplicolor DE 1635). Nice finish but looked plain and blah. Needed something more

    The emblem is a replica of the 1967 fender emblem attached with Permatex black silicon adhesive. After cutting off the fastener studs, let the smear skin for 15 minutes then hand pressed onto the valve cover for 40 minutes. (Using Permatex came from Xten)

    The silver pin stripe is 1/8" diameter about 1/8" in from the raised edge. A suggestion from Xten.

    100_6414.jpg

    Refinishing some do overs
    : Some of the refinished parts had enough runs and-or lots of little bubbles been redoing them yet again. Only black left is one inner fender. The Chevy orange VHT has been a problem with lots of orange peel. I used Duplicolor primer DE 1612 (after calling Duplicolor). Even a second strip of the water pump pulley still covered and so is the new pulley for the power steering pump, Strip down one more time but prime with VHT primer.

    Fender Surprise: While the fenders were off to refinish the firewall, went ahead and striped the lower area. I knew there was damage but no idea how much. What I found surprised the heck out of me

    - - - Passenger Fender: Did not remember a patch. Had to have been done in 1986 when body-paint work was done
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    - - - Driver side: Sure don't remember damage like this either. A lot of thick gray filler. I remember the shop told me they used filler with metal
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    Will have a shop repair with a patch panel. The inner panel will be cleaned of rust. Went to 7 shops with the fender finding only two who would do the work. Both estimated 5 hours per fender. $600 at one and $700 the other. OUCH..!! but it is the needed method and I will have fenders that fit.

    Steering and suspension:All front steering and suspension parts have been removed. Here is what will be going in . Not in the picture are the center shaft arm coming in a separate order
    100_6416.jpg .

    Steering: All tie rods will be replace (center , inners and outers). The old rods of 116,000 miles have A LOT of slop compared to the new rods.

    Suspension: Everything but the sway bar and the coil springs. The shocks were replaced earlier in the rebuild. T

    Coil Springs: No markings found on the springs installed in 1986 with 2,000 miles of use. In the limited driving infront of the house they worked as intended and the stance looks good so putting them back in. Using bench grinder, 4 1/2" grinder, drill and a lot of lacquer thinner, springs came pretty darn clean. Refinished with VHT epoxy gloss black, SP 1650
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    Control Arms: To remove and install all bushings and lower ball joints, went to four shops and cheapest I found was $150 (one wanted $330 for 3 hours). Charge was for two hours but the removal took maybe 15 minutes. The 1986 bushings were dry-rotted. With the parts off, attempted to clean the arms myself. The paint was coming off but the metal was not clean and beyond my limited facilities to get them clean. Took them to a local rod shop for blasting and was told a local powder coat shop could do it a lot cheaper. The foreman called and was told $150 to blast and powder coat so I took them there.
     
    xten likes this.
  7. xten

    xten Veteran Member

    745
    247
    Sep 24, 2014
    Pittsburgh, Pa.
    I think those valve covers are a big improvement over the plain black. Gonna look really good and detailed when assembled. There's going to be a huge difference the way it drives with all the new parts. Nice progress Chuck!
     
  8. Da-bigguy

    Da-bigguy Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    3,050
    22
    Jan 19, 2010
    Cypress, TX
    You've been making some great progress on her, Chuck! Unfortunately I'm at a bit of a standstill on mine but hope to start making some progress before too long.
     
  9. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    990
    24
    Nov 24, 2012
    Houston, Texas
    Coat the inner frame surfaces: With the suspension and steering off for rebuilding, a good time to do so. Blow out with compressed air, soap and water, pressure washer, swab with lacquer thinner, compressed air.

    Coated the interior with 3 spray cans of Eastwood Inner Frame Coating with good coverage. The 2foot spray tube still curved more than 270 degrees after two days in the sun so tapped it to a clothes hanger.

    The gray is Eastwood rust encapsulator. The light green on the inner surface is the coating
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    Recoated Outer frame (all 4 sides) and the cross piece with VHT epoxy gloss black. Went with gloss for a distinct perimeter.
    100_6487.JPG 100_6488.JPG

    Upper control arm ready for install after blast-powder coat (satin), all new Moog parts and 1986 GM purchased bumpers. The bumpers were a paint but I finally went gorilla pulling with vise grips and both came through the arm very quickly
    100_6490.JPG 100_6491.JPG

    Installing the lower control arms.
    An essential tool - 5 pound sledge hammer:
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    The bushings were flush against the arms but the end of the front bushing and the front of the back extended beyond the frame. Used the sledge hammer and bashed the frame opening several times then test fit. Took a lot repetions but finally went in

    Spring install not so good
    Uncompressed are 17 inches and compressed 12 many 13 inches. Tried a spring compressor but it slipped a tad during tightening. YIKES..!! Tried a strut type but not enough clearance. Went back for the shock type again and will give it another go

    Front spoiler change
    Been mulling over if I even wanted to keep it on. Did not like the spoiler being the color of the body but I did not want black on the sides. Thought it looked funny. Came up with having the sides the color of the body and the front black. To see what it would look like, did some digital editing. I like the look and will go with it

    FrontSpoiler1.jpg

    FrontSpoiler2.jpg FrontSpoiler3.jpg
     
    BillyDean7173 likes this.
  10. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    990
    24
    Nov 24, 2012
    Houston, Texas
    Only one update but it's a BIGGIE with BOTH front springs installed

    What did not work
    - Hydraulic jack: springs to tall (17") and to much angle and distance to the seating area
    - Strut Compressor: Not enough clearance on the outside and not enough space on the inside
    - Fork type compressor (two different makers): The two open fork ends had only small area of contact with the spring (near the point of a guide location)
    - Shock compressor with arms for upper and lower ends: (Performance Tool W80554) After the first attempt could never get the tightening rod parallel with the spring let alone any where close to the center. Lost track of the number of times tried and had to wallk away before aggrivation became to great

    Here is what worked
    100_6504.JPG
    Approach
    Using the W80554 tightening rod (12" long, 1/2" dia thread) with the two included washers, inserted it through the shock tower. The threaded 2 arm assembly went on the bottom of the thread. Tightened with a 13/16" six sided socket and 1/2" drive ratchet.

    Location of the bottom end to get it into the lower control arm in the needed location was best guess. Also had to guess for compensation because the tool bends the spring due to the arm assembly not being center in the spring.

    A much safer method. If something went wrong, the frame was between me and the spring. Was still aware of the potential problems but I was not edgy.

    Driver side:
    - - First two attempts, the spring end was before the first hold then past the second hole. Had the 2 1/4 ton floorjack under the shock opening area for additional safety
    - - Third atempt was close to the first hole. Used a smaller floor jack on the outside edge of the control arm.
    - - fourth: Was looking good going up. with the spring bottom in the upper area of the seating area, used the curved pry bar and jack action to get it into the seating area and centered

    Passenger side some variation and got it on the second try. Took a while to get 2-arm assembly in the right orientation.
    - - First attempt was to the right of the second hole
    - - second: looked good from the start. Could not get the bottom of the spring past the inner edge of the shock opening. Lowered both jacks some and loosened the tightening rod to move the arm assembly further down the spring. Was able to raise the spring enough that the curved pry bar leveraged it by the shock opening and then some jack work got it into the seating area

    How did the index turn out: Both spring ends in the lower control arm within a fracion of being center between the two index holes. Was not trying for this location it just turned out that way

    Finish damage: Spring epoxy paint were touched up ok. Powder coated control arm have some surface scratches that will be left as is

    Will I ever remove or install springs again.............NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO....!!!!!

    Have I finally rounded the far turn and coming to the finish line? At least the last pain part is done for everything else to go on has already be on once. Should be putting Tab A into Slot B. There is nothing left to refinish, rebuild or replace
     

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