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Discussion in 'Suspension, Steering, Brake & Wheel Topics' started by TCinthe6, Feb 7, 2019.
That's total cost of dropping the car off and picking it up done.
In a word "yes". They built a system that sacrifices geometry for easy packaging. DSE does a better job and solves some of the problems with their "swivel links" but it doesn't solve all of it.
Even though they look similar, a triangulated 4-link works differently than a parallel 4-link.
Think about the ability of the rear end to tilt from one side to the other (like going up a curb). A parallel link won't allow this, a triangulated 4-link will as there is a "swing" to the upper arms as they travel. Look here for interesting stuff on this
Why didn't DSE and Air Ride use triangulated 4-links you ask: Because the upper arms run into the fuel tank, floor pan etc...
The Torque arm can pivot around the center link.
I can only imagine what it’s like to design an off the shelf 4-link kit for a car never designed for one. You want to create a superior system, but the cost has to be reasonable. Like mentioned some systems for perfection would require cutting up the car, losing the back seat etc. but not a lot of people want to do that. Regardless of the downfalls people feel are with the DSE set-up, it works. It doesn’t interfere with the gas tank, allows the use of the rear seat etc. They surely did a good job on it and the cars that have them perform very well.
Really good explanation on trailing arm length at 3:00
The cal track bar is to eliminate wheel hop.
Wheel hop is from the front leaf spring pack wrapping up and unloading.
Look at the Mopar super stock spring pack.
Leafs moved forward to stiffing the front of the spring pack.
I go a bit farther than the Mopar deal as I see no reason for the lower 3-4 springs other than to get ride height where you want it.
I shift the 3 springs closest to the main spring more forward so they are under the spring eye or within a couple inches of it at least.
Then clamp the front of the spring pack.
Wheel hop eliminated!
I juggle different length springs from different cars mostly Ford trucks to get the ride height and ride firmness I want.
You can cut the rear half of a spring off some to soften the ride..But keep the front 1/2 stiff and clamped.
When you launch you will notice the car now raises the back of the car instead of squatting.
Play with pinion angle to reduce some of the tendency to raise too much.
I like Leaf springs.
You need a new shock on the rear also not some worn out 30 year old shock those old shocks should be on the front Drag racing anyway.
You can re-arch your leaf springs in your back yard also to tweak what you want.
That is another story all together.
Don’t seem to have that issue with my 4- link lol[/QUOTE]
I do like a 4 Link and coil overs I built my own bars and mounts for my 69 Camaro.
I built a panhard bar also.
The issue I had was road salt and plain old muddy water mucking up the threads.
Not a huge issue just clean it more or quit driving it all the time in bad weather.
4 link is lighter. I am thinking 4 link for my Model T roadster for the lighter aspect of it and will be using rack and pinion on it.
That is another thing all together My 69 got a strut front end I built and rack and pinion and my 78 Nova got rack and pinion also that I built with Ford stuff. I retained the rear leafs on the Nova.
I drove it much harder and a lot of off road in the mud.
Must get to the fishing hole you know.
Not that you guys will be driving in the mud or salty roads during the winter.
I do like my Cal Tracks. They are often mistaken for a 4-link lol
I always thought that the main problem was in the upper arms being to short, that's why DSE, Alston and Ridetech poked the forward end into the cabin to increase length, geometry can't be ignored and I suppose at some point while the suspension is articulating there'll be bind no matter what you use, for the OP, I guess it boils down to choosing your poison, the Pro's are leaf springs are hard to beat and hands down best bang for the buck, the cons (if there are any) are tire size and ride quality, leafs won't give us the same ride as coil overs, I'm taking a serious look at Ridetech's new design, structurally it makes sense and no cutting, I've already cut my car enough with sfc's and tubs, as for cost, the only bind I'm getting back there is in my wallet, us guys up north are bleeding...no kidding!!
Tell me about it. I wouldn't have to second guess every decision if our dollar wasn't 0.75 cents to the greenback.
Here's what I'm gathering and gonna do this season...
Leave the leaf springs on for at least a year and roll around on a 275 tire. The options and adjust-ability with a 4 link will allow me to dial in the ride quality I'm hoping to achieve. It's superior technology hands down...worth it? To some yes, to some no. But I'll bite.
As far as cost goes...I'm guessing after taxes, shipping, currency etc, us Canadians are looking at $5K CAD for the parts alone.