Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'The BS Topic' started by 80sz, Nov 4, 2017.
For the money I save doing it myself I'm getting new upper arms. Easier and the all new is nice.
Driveworks are crap. Moog from Rock Auto are often the "RK" series, which is nothing more than Driveworks in a blue & yellow box. Delco from Rock Auto can be ok if you use the Professional series versus the "Advantage" series, which once again is nothing more than Driveworks in a different colored box. Lifetime warranty or not, you will be replacing them again before you know it.
If you're still going to replace the whole arm versus just the ball joint, and you're planning to get something other than a Delco Professional series or a genuine GM piece, at least the Duralast line at Vato Zone is made by Federal Mogul and for a budget priced part they will go the distance.
Still, if it was mine I'd do the joint only and call it a day. Bushing failures in that generation GM truck is not common in our area.
good post. I felt the arm be good choice since mine are rusted . The black coating is almost all off of them . Good tips on the rock auto parts,saw the grades.econonmy,d/d and professional lines. I have to call dealer yet on prices. Ac delco arms online were 216.00 .
Make sure you put a nut on the top ball joint. I had a CV shaft boot repaired, and I drove my 09 two blocks from the dealership, and my truck looked like this when I pulled in the parking lot at work. I felt it start to pull me toward the curb on the way back, lol.
unreal!, guess i can let it go awhile. The slight play i got isnt hurting a thing
That's not what I meant at all - the dealership screwed up when they put my A-arm back on (left the nut off or something). I got back with the ball joint hanging onto the spindle by a thread - actually less, lol. I literally only drove the truck a few blocks, I have no idea how they would have even put it together without a nut on it. The nut would have not unthreaded itself off in that short of a drive.