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Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by woody80z28, Feb 22, 2008.
Nice back-up light!
Been too long since an update...but it's coming along. I need to quit racing the Beretta! haha Well, after this month...cause I'm taking it back to the strip. I figure if I break it again it will be a kick in the ass to get this car done.
Finally got some time to finish modifying my subframe. Got a bunch of stuff from John at Lab-14.com to strengthen it. Plates and studs for the UCA mounts, thick washers for the LCA mounts, plates for the body mounts, adjustable braces for the UCA studs. Saved a ton of time. I wish I had seen his site before I had done so much of the same stuff myself. I wanted to do the sway bar plate because I think a welded nut is a better solution than drilling and tapping a plate like I did, but I was not cutting off the plate I already fully welded on. But I did cut and weld the big UCA/shock mount as suggested.
I also scoured through the depths of McMaster for some other mods I had planned. I welded a coupler nut inside the cross bar at the front of the frame horns. I figure I can use the bolt as a jacking point to get the front end in the air. Might work for a tow hook mount, too. I'll find out soon. The only problem with that big bar I welded in is the access to the radiator mounts, so I welded in some cage nuts.
I've got some more stuff to update, but I'll wait until the new parts are here on Tuesday. I will say that the deep spring bucket of the DSE arms made it impossible to install my Hotchkis coils - even with a coil cut and compressed as far as my compressor would go. So you can probably guess where this is going...
BTW, anybody need some Hotchkis coils?
Man I never even thought about a lot of the mods you are doing! Very cool stuff.
On your coil springs don't use the compressor like you have in pic. Take the top wing off and just use the bottom. Run the top rod up through the shock tower hole and use a washer and nut and run it down with an impact gun. It will suck the spring right up in there. I had pics in my build thread but I think photo bucket nixed that but I'll see if I can find them. I used heavy rachet tie straps and a floor Jack to pull the lower control arm up and chained the spring for safety.
What are the knurled bolts for in the closeup pic where the lab 14 decal is? It's been a minute since I worked on my car and can't get perspective on it. Also on the washers welded in where the body mount bushings go did you have to get special ones from lab 14 since it is thicker there now?
I actually tried to get the compressor stud through the shock hole but it's too big. I may have been able to cut the stud off shorter and get it to work, but my dad has a first gen that is gonna need the coils R&R so I just gave the tool to him. My fix is more expensive, but I really wanted to go adjustable shocks anyway...and I picked up what I need during a Labor Day sale so the price wasn't too bad.
The body mount reinforcements are welded on the bottom side, so the height of the body bushing is not affected.
Those knurled bolts are ARP wheel studs for the UCA shaft mounts. John has it all figured out and they come with instructions. I welded washers on the inside too since my adjustable arms won't need shims and I can keep the studs shorter. The washers are welded so I still get the full knurl strength even spacing them back. This pic shows how it all works together with the braces to keep it all rock solid with the g-braces. The cantilevered subframe needs a lot of bracing to be stable.
And since I'm adding more pics I'll show more of the progress to where I am now. I hit the chassis stuff with epoxy and Raptor Liner. Made a couple changes to the firewall after my last mockup too. The Raptor really gives a nice look, and the texture hides some imperfections.
The bracing is a tight fit, but it works with the stock PS lines and the AN-6 setup I'll be running.
Long time no update. Been working on my Beretta since I kissed the valves off the pistons on a missed shift...oops. But now that car should be about 270hp instead of 200. haha
I do have a bunch of old photos that I never did post for some reason. So here they are.
I picked up a set of double adjustable Viking coilovers from UMI. Went with the 550lb springs. My old Hotchkis were 600 (which I still have if anyone is interested) but I can adjust the shocks stiffer when racing with these. (And way lighter for drag racing.)
I also did have to change the stock 6" length idler from ProForged to the Howe on "for threaded sleeves" meaning heim-style tie rods. The PF piece is really nice, but caused the tie rod bolt to hit the LCA bolt on the crossmember.
I also got some bumpsteer studs from Speedway for the knuckles. With the locknut barely catching threads they are really close, but I'm sure the correct adjustment will not be at the very bottom.
It's coming along nicely Woody, keep at it! The shiny new coil overs and other bits look nice against the black.
You'll enjoy those Vikings....I really like mine.
JW, what spring rate did you go with? Done any drag or autocross with them? I'm hoping they'll be good to set medium for street, heavy for autox sms light for drag.
JP, I'd actually love they spray that shiny crap gunmetal, but don't want to mess with the adjustment threads on the shock body. My new Tanks Inc EFI tank also looks shiny and gross... But that one is definitely getting a coat of paint. Haha