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Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by indyzmike, Oct 24, 2007.
I would love to get my hands on a vert, camaro or firebird.
I have been working on the garage ceiling, adding drywall and insulation. I got it all sealed up last weekend and had the urge to wrench on the car tonight. It's close to 0 degrees F outside but 60 in the garage. I drained the engine and trans to prep for removal. I pulled the steering gearbox, the idler, the fuel pump, the driveshaft, the starter, and both dipsticks. I have the shifter linkage to go yet and its ready to yank out engine and trans. I see that the engine chrome kit, that the former owner installed, moved the timing marks off of TDC. The balancer mark is at TDC and the black mark is by TDC on the scale.
Apparently a 350 tab on a 305.
I got the speedometer cable and the trans linkage disconnected, hooked up the engine hoist, and pulled the block and transmission. I set them on the floor and seperated the two. Then I put the engine on the stand and started tearing it apart. I was able to get the pistons out and check the bores. They measure stock bore + .0012. Too bad one bore has a small score and the block should be bored out.
Broken tooth on the flex plate.
A little sludge in the pan.
Thats it for today.
I measured the bores with an inside mic to double check my bore gauge. It looks about the same. I looked a bit closer at the score mark in the #3 cylinder and it is not bad at all. The rod journals on the crank look good too. None worn more than .001". I still have to pull the mains.
When I bought this car, I thought of driving it home from Long Island, New York to Milwaukee, Wisconsin. I am glad that I rented a truck and trailer. It would have done damage to the engine driving it with all of the junk in the oil pan... even if I did change oil.
In the more than 10 years that I have had this car I have only driven it less than 1/4 mile, around the block twice.
I did some more disassembly on the engine block and got it down to the bare block. No surprises on anything. The main bearing journals on the crank are .002 under. I also noticed numbers stamped on the oil pan land by each cylinder. There is an 8, 9, or 10 by each one. I found that these must have something to do with the cylinder bore size at assembly. I think it tells the assembler what size piston to put in each cylinder. The #1 cylinder on my engine is marked #8 and is the smallest bore. The #5 and #7 bores are marked #10 and have the largest bores. The rest are marked #9.
The engine ID is T0418CHA. Casting is 14010207. This is the original numbers matching engine to my car.
More progress to report!!! I took the engine block, crank and pistons to the local machine shop to get them cleaned and measured for the rebuild. Found 1 piston had too bad of a scuff to use, the crank needs grinding because of deep scratches, and all the block needed was cylinder deglaze. Add to that new cam bearings and freeze plugs. It should be done Friday.
I picked up the engine block,crank, and pistons from the engine shop. I also bought a bearing set and piston rings from them too. They had called me while they were working on the engine and told me that the scuff on one of my pistons was real bad and could not be used. They recommended boring the block .020 over and install new pistons. I did not think the scuff was that bad, so I picked up the engine and related parts from the shop.
After doing more research and getting more opinions on the piston, I made the decision to clean it up and use it. The scuff is minor and cleaned up real nice. I lightly sanded the area with 300 paper and followed with Scotchbright. Amen. Thanks to those that replied to my plea for another piston in the For Sale/ Wanted section.
I heated the garage to install the crank today and found that I am missing one main bearing half from the box. GRRRRRRRR. Now I have to wait untill tomorrow to get the rest of my parts.
I have also decided to send the 70cc aluminum heads back to Summit in exchange for the same 64CC heads. In my compression calculations, I did not enter a volume for the piston dish. When I do, the compression is only 8.9:1 or a little less. I would rather be closer to 9.5:1.
Did the shop say anything about cracks in the skirts of the pistons? because my 427 Big Block pistons skirts looked scuffed like that and were cracked, its caused from detonation and forged pistons expand a lot, if it was me I would replace them, you can get a set of small block pistons for under a $100, no point in risking something for a $100, later down the road if something serious happens it will be more then the $100 and never use Scotchbright on any internal part of an engine!!
Thanks Chris!!!! What is the reason to not use Scotchbright? Does it leave residue? Just want to know for future reference.