1979 Z28 4 Speed - A never ending project!

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by Z28500, Feb 22, 2017.

  1. Z28500

    Z28500 Member

    Jan 26, 2017
    Grill-1.JPG Here is a shot of that lower grill with an upper grill cut in half and the lower half of it to fill the bottom hole. The top corners are rounded and the bottom corners are squared on the upper grill so like I said about the bottom half being used, it fit great.
    Maybe you can see the screws lower right, left, middle. The one on the right is visible, about an inch from the end, screwed straight down and painted black. Same thing at the top. They are screwed straight upwards. The middle screws are off center towards the right a little bit. 6 screws total holding the grill. Also the orange lights look a little different. They used to have the chrome do-dads in the middle with a clear lens. I sanded the light housing after removing the cracked lens and glued an orange piece of plastic in it's place. Then went with a regular 1157 bulb instead of the original orange bulb. It didn't cost hardly anything and I like it. I did not like the chrome do-dads it had before. Don't we change things on our Z's to suit the way we want it?
    Perhaps the most humorous thing about the car is when teenagers look at it. It's Wow this, Wow that! Until they see the stock AM-FM radio with me commenting, "Do you like that stereo? The speakers even work sometimes!" They are totally grossed out and give me lots of advice!
    (I like to listen to the motor)
  2. Zspoiler

    Zspoiler Veteran Member

    May 6, 2012
    Federal Way, Washington
    Mine is a 1979 Z-28 RS.So it all sorts of extra trim pieces.I lost weight through a the Vette Brakes C-4 Corvette suspension and tubular "A" arms, The cowl hood,the IMSA IROC nose.and a number of other places. I believe that some one make a fiberglass replica of a 1978-9 hood.O just find a fiberglass flat hood and use you original hood scoop.

    Attached Files:

  3. Z28500

    Z28500 Member

    Jan 26, 2017
    Sounds like a cool idea, either that or just a fiberglass front end.
    What's a Z28 RS? I tried google-ing it with no luck. RS turned into a Z?

    And the tale of a "1979 Z28 4 Speed - A Never Ending Project" Continues Feb. 25, 2017,

    Just got the call from the machine shop, I will pick up my block on the 2nd. It was a 4.030", now it's torque plate bored/honed to a 4.040" Early '80's right hand dipstick, Low filled, 2 pc rear main seal, 4 bolt main, Zero decked, iron removed for 3.750" crank. (which is what "Blueprinted" means, "Balanced & blueprinted, well, all engines are balanced, but it will get re-balanced)

    The next step is to take the Crankshaft to probably the best crank shop in Houston and have it polished again. All this guy does is crankshafts. I know about 12 years ago, his crank machine was about a quarter million dollars and he charges $30 to polish a crank. I have already checked the crankshaft with a dial indicator, center bearings taken out and just the two outer bearings left in the block, turned the crank and the needle stayed steady! That means the crank is perfectly straight.

    The last thing to do that I can't do a home is take the new SRP 4.040" pistons, the rods, crank, harmonic balancer, and the flexplate & a flywheel to the balance shop. The reason for the flexplate & flywheel is because there is a chance I may put a Turbo 400 automatic in if I can't find a front housing for the Borg Warner Super T-10. Having a balanced flywheel and flexplate gives me the option of swapping manual or automatic transmissions, now or in the future.

    This time I am going to get longer rocker studs so I can bolt on a girdle. Why take a chance? My valve covers are 4 inches anyway, plenty of room. The 2-1/2 inch Bullet mufflers (Sound like straight pipes-too loud) are being changed out for Thrush 2-1/2 inch glasspacks. Although the 2-1/2" pipes are already all the way to the back bumper, they will now exit in front of the back wheels with the original H-pipe in back of the long headers like it was before. I am thinking about having the aluminized pipes exposed under the length of the doors Vette style, but without the heat shield. It is either that or just angled under the car, with the end exposed in front of the back wheels. I like to keep the H-pipe close to the headers so the transmission can be R&R’d easily.

    To keep things really COOL, I already have a “Thrush” sticker stuck under the hood with other assorted stickers such as ROCHESTER (830 cfm Carburator-don't want a holly unless it's 1,000 cfm (1) ), WEIAND TEAM G (Intake Manifold), DART (Heads), Comp (Roller lifters), CRANE (Camshaft & Roller Rockers), Competition Engineering (Frame connectors), TRICK FLOW (Pushrods), SRP, EAGLE, FERREA (Valves), ARP, K&N, MOSER (Axles), ZOOM (Kevlar Clutch), GOODYEAR (Eagle), There are a few others I forgot about, oh yeah, one of them is a skull & crossbones with a local Gun Shop logo on it. Again, all the stickers are stuck to the underside of the hood and none of them are fake(Not in the car). You will never see a flowmaster sticker on my car because although they are good, I have always associated them with the teenage crowd who will buy one or two, put a sticker in a highly visible place with the new muffler increasing their car's horsepower (in their minds)by a factor of 1/3 with the gas pedal pushed all the way to the floor to prove it!(Reality HP increase, what? 1 or 2?) No thanks, don’t want two of them! Besides, there are a lot of different chamber style or turbo mufflers out there.

    I realize this next statement is "rear end needing attention" related, but I remember back in the 1980’s a friend of mine used to say, “Going so fast it was gittin’ sideways!”


    (1) A properly tuned & tricked out Rochester, when opening up the two secondaries, is Very Nasty!
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2017
  4. Z28500

    Z28500 Member

    Jan 26, 2017
    Just finished rebuilding my Super T-10 (2.43, 1st -1.61, 2nd - 1.23, 3rd - 1, 4th ) and gave it a new case

    Then replaced the Ferrea Exhaust 1.6 valves with Manley Race Master's but kept the Ferrea 2.02 intakes in the Dart Iron eagles. I like the Iron vs aluminum since they are pretty much the proverbial "bullet proof" In the past they have taken over 260 degrees which puts the head gasket more at risk that the heads. (Fel Pro 1003) anyway, with the 10:1 compression, I am about maxed out to 93 octane, I used to use octane boost in the past at 36 degrees advance. However- Aluminum does dissipate better that the iron so a little less octane can be gotten away with, but that's the trade off, that and the extra 25 lbs per head. I took the strength and glad I did
    By the way, I have 2 (Two) "Advance" timing lights, but to make things easy, instead of using the Zero mark, I have a 36 degree mark on the balancer also and use that instead. Either way works though.
    Anyway, this motor is a 385 (384.569) 0.040 over instead of the old 383 0.030 it used to be. Forged SRP Flat tops-6" rods. If the seat angle is correct on those new valves, then all I got to do is lap 'em in, set the spring height and bolt on the heads- then the team G single plane intake with the dual splitter plate. I have to use a drop down breather and it is 1/4" from hitting the hood. (I actually had to remove one of the stock Z28 hood scoop nuts because it hit the breather!) But it all works and the engine should be running by the end of the month! Finally!
    5th engine since 1999 when I bought the car for $6500- right at about 3600 lbs instead of the stock 3800
    Heavy car really
    Yup! A Nasty Z28 back on the road!
    I used to have tons of fun leaving it in 3rd gear years ago and played with 5.0 Mustangs spraying it, not to mention spanking a few hemi's
    Those new Hellcat hemi's are pretty fast thought-can't touch them since they have about 170 more hp than me,(707hp?) but the 392ci Challenger only have about 485hp and out weigh me by two or three hundred lbs- Don't know what would happen, I got about 50 more hp- I won't race any more anyway- I just like the car and it's still very fast, whether it gets beat or not. There is always going to be a faster car somewhere, so I don't really care-
    these two Super T-10 images show the Unpainted case but with something COOL
    My homemade Super Duty Snap Ring Pliers I specially made for the heavy Super T-10 snap rings, they worked perfect and didn't cost anything to fabricate.
    Notice the off-set at the bolt in order to center the tips and the little flair out on the tips to better grab the snap ring ends.
    My Super T-10 with Snap Ring Plyers-5.JPG My Super T-10 with Snap Ring Plyers-1.jpg

Share This Page