Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Original Drivetrain Topic' started by citrusz, May 11, 2016.
If they are gonna be made in China, I'm out
Auveco Co. sells the correct nut, at least they used to. that was back in the day. they're still in business though...
Been there done that and got the shirt!
My company has a facility in China. It is against their culture to say no. Been in many meetings there and everyone nods yes to every request. A few months later the first samples are done and they are nowhere close. When you drill down the yes was "Yes we can't do that!" "Isn't this good enough?"
It occupies the same space and kind of looks OK. Why are you so picky?
Manufacturing in China has its place but it has to be very carefully defined and monitored closely every step of the way. Not to mention, costs are rising there and not the deal it was even 5 years ago. We are finding that depending on the item (read, how much labor to make) it is better to do it here. Unless you have a very good relationship with a supplier that you can trust or you have a stateside managed facility already in place there, forget about getting any kind of quality.
A lug nut? Good luck. I would be surprised anybody over there would take auto restoration seriously. Does it fit and hold the wheel on? Good enough.
The other issue is shipping. They want to fill a container ship up with these things. Then you get them and they are junk. We have a facility over there that and have folks that literally goes to the dock and goes through the containers before they leave port with the supplier and sorts through good from bad throwing the bad out the door.
To what I posted before for tooling costs, add at least 2 flights over to China to monitor the build. Now you have reduced the tooling cost in half, but now added 5K for travel costs, and maybe add in rework costs.
I just ordered the ames nuts...They look good. The ones i brought back are much longer
Same here. I can buy my rice locally.
Sorry Chuck, but I respectfully disagree. Take a close look at the comparison picture of the two lug nuts you posted, paying attention to the surface area of the tapered portion of the lug nut, where it seats against the lug hole in the wheel. FAR LESS tapered area on the repro lug nuts. If you are lucky enough to have a wheel where the lug holes have zero wear (highly unlikely on 45 - 50 year old wheels that have been mounted and dismounted God-knows-how-many times), the tapered portion of those repro lug nuts will have BARELY enough surface contact area with the tapered portion of the wheel lug hole to safely hold the wheel in place. If there is any amount of oversize to those same lug holes (which is quite likely), there will be insufficient contact area. How do I know this? I ruined a wheel on my 69 Chevelle SS396 by having these crappy repro lug nuts on it. The wheel loosened up after doing a couple short burnouts and by the time I noticed there was something amiss, the lug holes in the wheel had been worn beyond usability. I am not the only one to suffer this problem.....we've had the same discussion on the Yenko.net website....
^^Yep, that's why I switched to the solid lug nuts. I wasn't comfortable with the taper on the Ames repo lug nut either. I went through about 10 rims trying to find decent lug nut holes.
Anyone have pics of originals? Any markings I should be looking for?
Honestly I Never tried the AMES Pontiac Repro Lugnut on any of my
collection of Z28 wheels to see how they fit (or did NOT)
I've seen the thread at Yenko.net and would be inclined to buy
the Solid Chrome Lug Nuts that look "similar" to OE....For A Street
I'm "hoping" that my Show Car Wheels are good enough condition
to use the AMES repops.....
I have NO HOPE of anybody investing the required $$$$ to produce
the 1st design Nuts in the USA or any other country .....
All this interest in a part that only a hand full of people even care
enough to spend the money and know the difference.........