1970 Camaro. Project "Cindy"

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by iregret, Feb 20, 2008.

  1. iregret

    iregret Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Apr 21, 2003
    Land of enlightenment.
    Okay, I finished up my oil pan and started her up. The oil pan didn't appear to be leaking, but my transmission lines sure were. They were leaking on to the headers really bad. So, I had to replace them.

    Here is the thread I posted in the transmission section. >>HERE

    Fittings on a TH350 are NPS not NPT. The transmission will accept a NPT fitting, just be sure not to over tighten them.

    I decided to piece together my own kit instead of buying Summit's kit. I do like the look of the nickel plating that comes in the Summit kit, but decided to save a few bucks and go with the classic blue. Also, I want to route my lines out of the way so I decided to order 15 feet of line instead of the 10 feet that would have came in the kit.

    Summit's kit costs 173.44 (Includes a cooler. I already have one.)

    SUM-220649 (x2) Cooler fittings
    SUM-221301 (x4) Hose ends
    SUM-230615 (x1) 15' hose
    RUS-640520 (x1) Trans fittings

    Total 111.64 + shipping

    I like the Russell fittings better than the ones that are included in Summits kit. I know they're a bit spendy but hopefully they'll be done right this time and I'll never have to deal with them again.

    I had considered ordering a new hard line from online tube. They're asking 75.00 for a stainless steel line.

    Below is how I installed my braided lines.

    First off, it turns out that 15 feet wasn't enough to route them where I wanted to. I had planned on routing them along the frame rail, behind the battery, around the core support. I didn't have enough line to do it that way, so I ended up routing them under the core support where the frame ends near the bottom of the battery.

    So here is where I mounted my transmission cooler.

    Previously, I had the stock lines running to the stock cooler in the radiator. After that, they ran to the B&M cooler, and back to the transmission. I have a transmission temperature gauge installed. After monitoring the transmission, I do not believe that it is necessary, in my application, to have it installed that way. Instead, I ditched the stock cooler, and just installed my aftermarket one.

    Here is the setup I used to remove the stock lines from the transmission. If you are planning on doing this install, or something similar, I recommend purchasing a set of crows feet. It made the job 1000 times easier. I picked up my set at Harbor Freight.


    Here's how I cut them.

    First wrap the part that you want to cut tightly in electrical tape. Then I cut them quickly with my angle grinder with a cut off wheel.

    Tightly and quickly are key here if you don't want too many frayed ends.

    After that remove the electrical tape and trim frayed pieces if necessary.

    Next, pound this piece of the fitting on the braided hose.

    Insert the rest of the fitting.

    And tighten.

    Here it is all done.

    I didn't take any pics of the lines installed on the transmission end. It's basically the same though. There is no need to use Teflon tape on the AN fittings, but you do have to use them on the fittings in the cooler. This is because the fittings in the cooler are the actual part that's doing the sealing.

    One thing that I would recommend is to screw the fittings together and apart a few times before you install them. I had to do this to get the anodization off.
  2. I have this same problem. Did you figure it out. I have been on summit looking. The 372 larger outer yoke bearing is 1.125" which these one seem to match? what do you think, gotta be one of these two but the bolt length on both seems a little short as my thread only begin half way into the yoke?
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2010
  3. protour73

    protour73 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Sep 21, 2006
    West of Chicago
    Justin, you've got a great build thread going on here. The work you did on the stereo components was VERY ambitious, holy crap!!!

    The trials and tribulations of the leaks and other setbacks will be well worth it when you are done, keep up the good work!! Should be good inspiration for others thinking about doing theirs ;)

  4. frankz

    frankz Veteran Member

    Aug 24, 2009
    Justin,I think you've done a great job on the car and the thread! Pictures and documentation are beyond what I'm capable of doing..............It's always an after thought w/me. Keep it up.
  5. V8TEC

    V8TEC Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Nice work Justin. She's coming along nicely.

    Sorry to hear about Buddy, RIP.
  6. pokey_159

    pokey_159 Veteran Member

    Nov 17, 2009
    St.Louis, MO
    very clean thread, keep it up brother its gonna be all worth it when shes done
  7. WheelerCamaro

    WheelerCamaro New Member

    May 7, 2011
    Ogden, Utah

    Nice work Justin! I read this thread over the weekend. I've got a '70 myself. For the last 10 years throughout my restore, I've been wondering why my headers are so close to the body. Thanks to your body bushing advice, now I know. :)

    I know I should have replaced them long ago, but I never made it a priority. Its kinda fun to see someone else with both a '70 and a budget. :)

    Would you still go with solid mounts or go with poly if you were to do it again?

    In real life, I'm guessing you are either an IT guy or an electrical engineer?
  8. carcrazed

    carcrazed Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Feb 28, 2009
    Phoenix, AZ
    Hey Justin----

    What you been up to?
  9. 1dirtyz

    1dirtyz Veteran Member

    Oct 2, 2011
    Riyadh , saudi arabia
    amazing build thread !

    thank you very much for all the details you mention , there is a ton of info here!
  10. flowjoe

    flowjoe Moderator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Feb 7, 2006

Share This Page