1970 Camaro. Project "Cindy"

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by iregret, Feb 20, 2008.

  1. iregret

    iregret Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    1,094
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    Apr 21, 2003
    Land of enlightenment.
    Unfortunately today I didn't make it over to my father's house to work on my car. Instead I got to go to the dentist! Yay! So I worked on prepping some of my other interior parts.

    A while back I searched around for what people recommended using for interior paint. The SEM brand paint is what I decided to go with. I think I ordered mine from amazon.com.

    I ordered 4 different paints:
    SEM Plastic/Leather Prep 38353
    SEM Landau Black 15013
    SEM Satin Black 15243
    SEM Low Luster Clear 13023

    The Landau Black is for plastics (Door panels, Sail panels, Kick panels, etc.) and the Satin Black is for metals. (Head-liner surround) Low Luster Clear is for both.

    I used the plastic prep first then shot two coats of the Landau Black, followed by a nice coat of Low Luster Clear. I didn't think to take a before shot, but the difference is quite amazing. Besides the gouges and scratches in the panels, they look brand new!

    Sorry for the terrible pic. The sun was setting. This picture really doesn't do them justice. They look great!!
    [​IMG]
     
  2. RICARDO1969

    RICARDO1969 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    2,093
    2
    Oct 14, 2007
    Waukesha WI
    Thank god you didn't go with flat black lol those look nice great work.
     
  3. motown 454

    motown 454 Veteran Member

    399
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    Feb 4, 2008
    Ma.
    Nice job they look great.
     
  4. iregret

    iregret Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    1,094
    0
    Apr 21, 2003
    Land of enlightenment.
    Oh no. Flat black is the single biggest mistake I've made while doing this project. I can't wait until one day when I have a shop so I can tear all this down and do it again!

    Thanks!

    The weather has kind of sucked around here lately. I did manage to get a tiny bit done. Basically I decided to mess around with POR15. I bought a little kit like the one here:

    http://www.por15.com/SUPER-STARTER-KIT/productinfo/SSKB/

    I followed the instructions in the kit and cleaned, then prepped the surface. Then applied the POR15. I wish POR15 made an aerosol product. That would really be ideal for me since I don't have an air compressor.

    You guys can see my door above. In so-so shape, but nothing too bad for their age.

    Here's after wire wheeling down.
    [​IMG]

    Here's the bad spot in the corner.
    [​IMG]

    ...and after I applied POR15.
    [​IMG]

    I cleaned and painted all the spots I could reach. I don't really know how you would get all the spots without taking the door off and completely taking it apart. Again, another project for when I have a shop! But for now, I think they are better than they were before, although I know they aren't as good as I would like them to be. I just couldn't reach everywhere!
     
  5. iregret

    iregret Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    1,094
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    Apr 21, 2003
    Land of enlightenment.
    I kinda got back into it again today. I dropped the oil pan (again:( ) It's been leaking in the front and the rear. I plan on replacing the rear main seal. I did find something interesting though. This crack in my oil pan certainly can't help my oil leaking problems. LOL

    [​IMG]

    What's weird about it is I didn't over torque it or anything. I didn't even bother calling Summit on it because I've had the pan so long.. Even though I haven't driven my Camaro, at all.

    Here's a pic of the back of the oil pan just illustrating where the oil was leaking.

    [​IMG]

    While I have the oil pan off I am going to install my Summit Harmonic Balancer and my fancypants ARP balancer bolt.

    [​IMG]

    Here is my Summit Balancer VS my Fluidampr. I'm going back to a stock style setup. I'm going to sell my Fluidampr.

    [​IMG]

    Unfortunately, I broke the balancer install tool. LOL I wasn't doing anything crazy, but I did manage to get my Summit Balancer installed.

    [​IMG]

    Well, now I have to wait on my replacement oil pan. I'll be out of town for the next few days, but hopefully my pan will be here when I get back and I can get it installed. We'll see.
     
  6. sloan1

    sloan1 New Member Gold Member

    19
    0
    Jul 11, 2010
    Clarksville,Tennessee
    oil pan fitment

    most of the time on the aluminum oil pans you have to use a dremil tool to fit them to the engine better. there not able to give like the steel ones. usually there a little off at the 5 and 7 o'clock areas where you were showing your oil was leaking in the pic. looks like yours need a little work at the 6 o,clock position seeing how it cracked your flange. thats just my guess. im no expert. oh nice car by the way. i really need to get going on mine.
     
  7. motown 454

    motown 454 Veteran Member

    399
    0
    Feb 4, 2008
    Ma.
    Another thing is that they make two gaskets for some of these pans. One has a thicker front and rear piece that goes where the front cover and rear seal is.I don't know if your pan uses the thicker gasket. Maybe you couuld ask Summit.
     
  8. LtRsZ

    LtRsZ Veteran Member

    904
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    Apr 12, 2010
    Tacoma, WA
    on page 11, that wierd wire connector looks like a cable stop
     
  9. iregret

    iregret Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    1,094
    0
    Apr 21, 2003
    Land of enlightenment.
    Thanks for the tip. I'll definitely take a closer look when I install my replacement.

    Thanks for the info. I'm sure that I'm using the correct oil pan gasket. Plus it says on the inside of the pan "Use thing gasket only".

    Thanks man. I later learned that it's an electrical connector primarily used for industrial electrical connections.

    I started to replace the rear main seal today. I have never done this. The first thing I did was turn the crank until it was in this position so it would be easier to get to.

    [​IMG]

    After that I removed the piece where the rear main seal is located. (Main cap?)
    Here is what it looked like right after is was removed. Does it look like it was leaking?
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Here is what the other side of the block looks like.
    [​IMG]

    Could it have been leaking here? There is a small gap under the seal.
    [​IMG]

    Okay, so the person that assembled my engine put silicone under the seal. Is this normal? I was planning on putting some silicone where the two parts meet, but not under the seal it's self. Should I put a tiny bit of silicone under the seal?

    Here's a pic of it all cleaned up.

    [​IMG]

    I ran out of time for the day. Now I wont be able to get back at it for 2 more days. I'm going to carefully tap out the upper part of the seal and spray brake cleaner up there. Try to get it as clean as possible. When I install my replacement, I want to offset it a tiny bit so that the seal doesn't sit evenly with the block like my old one did. Hopefully this will cure my oil leak woes.
     
  10. iregret

    iregret Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    1,094
    0
    Apr 21, 2003
    Land of enlightenment.
    Today I replaced my rear main seal. I carefully tapped on the old seal until it started to push out the other side. I had to tap on both sides to get it to loosen up. The person that installed my rear main seal used a tiny bit of silicone and so it was harder to get out.

    [​IMG]

    After it was bumped out a little bit, I grabbed it with needle nose pliers and pulled it out the rest of the way.

    [​IMG]

    Check out my replacement seal. Notice anything different?

    [​IMG]

    At this angle you can see that the mating surfaces are moved over a tiny bit. My replacement seal rides on the crankshaft in a different location. A nice surprise for me. So if/when you decide to do this verify which seal you have.

    [​IMG]

    The replacement seal clearly says which side is facing outward from the engine. Apparently this is a somewhat common problem. Make sure you put the seal in facing the correct way!!

    [​IMG]

    One of the tips I was given was to install the seal slightly off from the main cap's mating surfaces. You can see that it's only off a tiny bit so that the seal and the cap don't have to seal in the same spot.

    [​IMG]

    After this pic, I put on a tiny bit of silicone. The instructions say to put it on the metal mating surfaces, not the seal itself.

    Next, I pushed the new seal and main cap into it's former location and torqued them down to 10 ftlbs. I let the silicone setup for about 20 minutes and proceeded to torque them down to 70 ftlbs.

    Hopefully I wont have any leaks!
     

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