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Discussion in 'Transmission & Driveline Topics' started by 7/3-SplitRS, Jul 16, 2018.
As long as it fits the pinion and it has constant thickness across, you're good.
7/3. PM me if you want. It's not that hard to do. Use the old pinion bearings. I Just use a grinding wheel and then a wheel cylinder hone to open up the inside of the old bearings so they slip on and off easy. If the pattern was good on your old ring gear then look for an etched number on the face of the pinion gear. The new set should also have an etched number. Between these two numbers you should be able to come close to a shim thickness. Do not use the new crush sleeve for initial setup. The sleeve is used for bearing preload and has nothing to do with setting the pinion depth. Without the proper tool set for setting pinion depth this is a trial and error adventure. Make sure you clean and check for burrs so the ring gear is seated completely flush on your carrier. Always use new bolts and torque to spec. Make sure you use thread lock. There is loads of pictures on line that display what the heel and toe pattern should look like when you have the pinion depth set in the sweet spot. There is a lot more information to provide which is why I said you may want to PM me.
Many new ring & pinion sets don't have pinion depth marked on them. If your installation kit came with ring gear bolts that have a 5/8 head DO NOT USE THEM. Only use bolts with the 3/4 inch head, and use red Locktite on them. The bolts with the 5/8 head can back out and cause a lot of damage. Many people get caught up in heel and toe pattern, but what is most important is the root to flank pattern. When you get the pattern centered between the root and flank the heel and toe will usually be close to correct.
So... I got the rear end put together. Correct shims in pinion. Depth measures right at the etched number on new pinion. 2.547". Torqued the pinion nut down until I had about 22 to 24 inch pounds of pressure on the indicator. Installed the diff with a number of shims, then switched them around and added. It is sitting at .08 on back lash. I snuggled everything up and when I turn it by hand it doesn't seem right. Hard to explain, I can feel the bearings turning when turning the yoke. It is not a smooth clean movement . It is not binding or anything just seems like it's not right. Possibly because it is dry? Or something else wrong? Haven't checked the paint yet to see what my contact looks like.
1. Always finish by checking the pattern, don't trust the depth gauge.
2. Put oil in the bearings for more accurate results and better 'feel' when turning.
Always use gear oil on the bearings. Never run them dry. You MUST do a pattern check. Post pictures of the drive and coast pattern when you do and let us look at them. Use an axle to turn everything about 6 full turns in both directions.
Do you know if you have a 2 cut or a 5 cut gear? If you don't know then you need to find out because they don't set up the same.
5 cut gear I believe. (Taller on the outside than on the inside of the gear) here is what my pattern looks like. This is 6 turns each way.
Thanks for any input.
The pinion is a little too deep. Take about .003 to .005 out of the pinion shim and give it another shot.
Nice clear patter on both sides, nicely centered heel to toe (although not so important), but too deep at this moment. Pull 0.005 - 0.008 and check again.