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Old 03-23-2007, 04:21:07 PM   #1
Warchild145
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Leaking drain plug

Whats the best cure for a leaking drain plug? the usual gasket just doesnt seem to work.

Will that white tape (cant think of actual name) put on the threads stop it or will i need a gasket sealer?

This is for a 98 ford e-350 with a 7.2L i beleive diesel.

Will be doing an oil change next week so looking for the best tip to stop this as it usually starts leaking again after a month.
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Old 03-23-2007, 04:36:59 PM   #2
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auto parts stores sell little plastic gaskets for the plugs. I use them. They prob sell the plugs themselves. Or go to the dealer and get a new one.
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Old 03-23-2007, 09:20:34 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efinger
auto parts stores sell little plastic gaskets for the plugs. I use them. They prob sell the plugs themselves. Or go to the dealer and get a new one.

X 2 , in that order.

Make sure when you tighten it down, that you don't crank the crap out of it. It doesn't need to be 'self welding'....just tight enough to stop any leaks. I hate having to 1/2" breaker bar off oil drain plugs.

Good luck.
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Old 03-23-2007, 11:17:19 PM   #4
pdq67
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Smile

Buy onna the expandable rubber ones and be done w/ it!!

It work's kinda like a thermos bottle rubber stopper/cork except you screw the bolt out instead of flip the toggle to make it expand to seal tight..

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Old 03-23-2007, 11:39:05 PM   #5
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I agree with the replacement...

Some people NEVER replace them, I do mine about ever 3 oil changes.
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Old 03-24-2007, 12:04:19 AM   #6
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I just love the 'right stuff' A very VERY light smear on each side of the plastic gasket and there is not a chance of a drip. I tell ya, I've thrown EVERy gasket crap out of my tool box except for 4.

Locktite green for head studs
A tube of Permetex High Temp (orange) silicone for header gaskets
A can of Permeted HiTack to glue paper gaskets in place
and a tube of the RightStuff for EVERYTHING else.
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Old 03-24-2007, 03:01:32 AM   #7
Warchild145
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i have tried the plastic gasket and also some other corkish material with no luck, the current one is the plastic.

It will last about a month or two then leak again. The rig doesnt see the road much, it maybe gets 200 miles tops if its the up rig otherwise it sits for a month or two not being used.

I will try the right stuff if i can find it and see how that works out.
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Old 03-24-2007, 04:10:12 AM   #8
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Teflon tape is the stuff mentioned earlier.
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Old 03-24-2007, 05:24:38 PM   #9
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Marv,

I only keep a bottle of good old, Permatex, "Indianhead Shellac Gasket Cement" around for EVERYTHING!!

The darn old-fashioned stuff just does what I want it to do is why! My only complaint is that it's messy and hard to scrape off on rebuild..

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Old 03-24-2007, 10:47:58 PM   #10
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More than likely the threads on the plug are pulled. The plugs that Ford uses are softer than they should be and it doesn't take very much ft lbs of arm torque to f*ck one up. Buy a new plug and gasket all together. When you replace it, the new one should thread in at least 3/4-full contact with your fingers. If it doesn't, the threads in the pan are damaged too....which CAN happen when the plug needed to be changed 3 oil changes ago and someone just kept on reusing it. The threads in the oil pan can be "cleaned up" or straightened fairly easily most of the time with the correct tools. The 7.3L Powerstroke takes a 14mm X 1.25 threaded plug. I can explain how to change the plug WITHOUT losing a single drop of oil too, if you need me to. It's simple, yet genius.
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Old 03-25-2007, 12:32:33 AM   #11
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I will just probably change it out when i change the oil but I would really like to hear how you can change one out without losing any oil if you dont mind.
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Old 03-25-2007, 02:11:37 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warchild145
I will just probably change it out when i change the oil but I would really like to hear how you can change one out without losing any oil if you dont mind.

Put your thumb over the hole?
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Old 03-25-2007, 11:52:01 AM   #13
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It takes 2 people to do it. Have person #1 take a shop vac that has decent suction and place a rag over the open end of the hose and kinda stretch it tight. Remove the oil fill cap. Leave the dipstick fully seated in the dipstick tube. Turn on the vacuum and hold the open end of the hose securely down on the oil fill neck....make sure it's completely sealed against the lip of the opening. It's important that you create a LEAK FREE seal at the oil fill hole. Person #2 can now remove the drain plug and absolutely NO oil will come out the bottom. Person #1 MUST NOT lift up on the vacuum hose until you're done swapping the plug or you'll get messy. It's THAT simple. Make sure and DO NOT overtighten the drain plug. I don't have my drain plug torque spec sheet in front of me, but I believe it's 30-40 inch lbs on the 7.3L.
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