Acrylic urethane as a base color?

[Mr_Z27]

I have been having problems finding the same base color primer/sealer so I have been directed to using a regular paint as the base color. My question is what kind of product should I be using under a polyurethane enamel and how long should I let it dry before shooting my final color coats. I was looking at using a acrylic urethane for my base and shooting my polyurethane over the top. Rights/wrongs?

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71 RS/SS 350
Yes I drive it and I don't treat if very well when I do!

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[Rick WI]

Well here is how I would approach this if I had to do it. I'd use the same clear as the color coat.

Now if the base color is a solid what you may be able to do is spray the base, let dry for 24-48 hours then topcoat with polyurethane clear. I would verify with the poly manufacturer that it can be topcoated over the urethane.

[Mr_Z27]

Rick,

My existing solid topcoat color is red polyurethane with urethane clear coats on top just like you suggest. However the red topcoat is transparent enought to where whatever primer/sealer is under my solid color has an influence on the final shade. I have sprayed up to 4 good coats of color and in the dimmer light there is not much variance in color from substrate to substate but is a whole differnent story when light shines down through the paint. I have sprayed white primer/sealer, light grey primer/sealer and the original yellow which was used 10 years ago when I oringinally painted my car, which I did not have enough of to complete my whole repair. The light grey made the final color come out dark where the white made it to bright. I need to go with the yellow to do it right. The yellow that was used has been discontinued and is no longer available so that is why I am leaning towards spraying a urethane base color under my polyurethane top coat as I can get supply houses to match paint easily enought but they will not tint primer for me.
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71 RS/SS 350
Yes I drive it and I don't treat if very well when I do!

Front view
Body view
Engine
Subframe
Action Video
Wife abusing my camaro

[This message has been edited by Mr_Z27 (edited April 03, 2005).]

[Rick WI]

I take it your not shooting PPG, Spies or HOK but a "value line"?

[Mr_Z27]

The primer coats I have tried have all been ppg stuff - DPLF, K36 etc.. I swung by a autoparts store today that I knew carried ppg stuff and stopped to see what they had to say. It was my lucky day as they were just starting to carry HOK products and the HOK reps were there stocking the shelves. They came up with a tinted sealer from Valspar (father company of HOK) that is the color I need. They are going to get it mixed up and give me a call to come pick it up. What luck to just stop in and have factory reps on hand. I don't know what I would have done otherwise because you know how paint counter people are to work with and there knowledge, especially if they know you are not affiliated with a body shop. Even though the paint is near 10 years old on my car it is nowhere near close to needing a new paintjob.

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71 RS/SS 350
Yes I drive it and I don't treat if very well when I do!

Front view
Body view
Engine
Subframe
Action Video
Wife abusing my camaro

[Mike-78 Z-28]

Blend the color onto the adjacant panel making sure the edge of the adjacant panel is covered solid like your repair panel then clear both panels stopping your first coat of clear about 6-8 in. before the end of the blend panel if it butts up to another panel say for instance a qtr, then on the second coat cover the entire panel.I don't know if that's the type of repair your doing (assuming it's something like fix a fender) If the repair is small enough you may be able to blend within the panel.This will help keep your blended clear part of the panel from being darker.An example of what I'm trying to explain would be to tape off your door, clear it solid with the 2 coats and it will look darker than the rest of the car even though you only cleared it.

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1978 Z-28 purchased new by me -$6750
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1982 350 S-10