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Old 08-10-2011, 09:20:29 PM   #16
Random80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWZ28
it makes me really happy that the first thing on the list is to lose all those stickers. Nice car!

i love that disturbin the peace
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Old 08-10-2011, 09:35:54 PM   #17
Kyle 78 Z28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Random80
i love that disturbin the peace
It's funny but I agree with him taking it off lol.
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Old 08-13-2011, 04:59:58 PM   #18
flak monkey
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Been a long few days...

Changed the waterpump on thursday evening. Never flushed so much crap out of a cooling system. Its as clean as it's likely to get now. Of course it didn't all go to plan as my new fuel filter leaked so I had to sort that out as well. Needless to say it was a late night :lol:

Yesterday I had planned to change the sump gasket and investigate the oil leaks further, but it turned out the engine is a 87 or later so has a one piece rear main seal. But as I had the car up on ramps I did a bit more digging and found that someone had decided to route the main power and charging cables between the headers and block... needless to say they were pretty fried. So I pulled them out and totally rewired the passenger side of the engine bay and rerouted all the cables around the edge of the engine bay. It was a bit of a mess, and I found out why several other things didnt work... And it looks like at least one oil leak is a pinhole in the sump.

I think who ever has done some of the rewiring on this car had a job lot of chocolate block connectors...they are everywhere. Pulled the dash board out today to try and find out why none of the warning lights worked. Turned out to mostly be bad connections. And now I think everything is working...

Then decided to tackle the oil pan on the transmission, before starting noticed a bolt missing from the gearbox mount and the remaining one halfway out. Tried to tighten it up and it wouldn't... M10 bolt in a 7/16UNC tread :roll: Thankfully the tread wasn't damaged, still mount out and bolted back in properly. Needs to come out again anyway as the mount is knackered.

Having dropped the exhaust and header off I now have a blowing exhaust, so got to trace that in the morning :roll:

Oh and my main beam headlights have now decided to stop working. Switch is fine, but no tell tale on dash and the lights aren't working. Something else to fix. I'll eventually get around to rewiring the whole car, but at the moment it looks like it will be dont piece by piece anyway!

Found a few patches of rust too, usual places though, some will be a pain to get to but I'll tackle them eventually.
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Old 08-14-2011, 05:43:46 AM   #19
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Thought I would add some photos

This is the wiring that was awaiting me




Nicely roasted and mostly connected with chocolate blocks



So it was all pulled out and completely redone



And rerun well out of the way



Ok its not hidden away now, but I would rather know it isn't going to be melted and short out

Also fixed the headlights this morning, found a wire 'repaired' with a scotchlock which seemed to have a bad connection. Spliced in a new piece of cable and it seems ok for the moment. Its all part of the drivers side engine bay wiring that will be getting tidied up and redone fairly soon anyway.
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Old 08-14-2011, 05:44:17 AM   #20
flak monkey
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Now for some gratuitous pics....








And no F body would be complete without some rust! Although its pretty minor, like most I have found so far...

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Old 08-14-2011, 06:23:37 AM   #21
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Welcome flak monkey, always nice to see another UK Camaro on these pages!

Looks like you've got a great car there, your wasting no time in solving those issues. I found some real beauties when I was stripping my car too. Gotta love bodge jobs!

Car looks solid, rust in the boot (trunk) looks to be only minor surface rust which should clean up a treat.

Can we expect to see a 350 build soon...?

Looking good!
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Old 08-14-2011, 09:41:40 AM   #22
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Thanks

Most of the boot floor rust is just surface, theres a few holes that need cutting out and replacing properly which I will do when I replace the fuel tank...

There are also several bits on the floor pan that need doing, and maybe some preventative stuff on the inside of the firewall. Hopefully thats just surface rust as well though and I'll deal with it when I strip the interior.

The passenger side footwell is wet too, but I am hoping thats just as a result of the non-existant door seals.
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Old 08-14-2011, 10:25:14 AM   #23
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Welcome. You are going to town fixing the previous owners mods good job. It is amazing what some people will do to get it on the road. "Trust me it'll be fine" as the smoke rolls from the wiring.
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Old 08-14-2011, 02:38:02 PM   #24
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Cheers,

Pulled the passenger seat out this afternoon which let me rip the carpet up and survey the damage. Its had a few patches in its life time, all done from the inside and sealed up with silicone after welding.





So they will be getting removed and the floor patched properly and re-sealed. May well make a start on that next weekend if the weather is good. The rest of the floor is nice and solid as are the sills.

I'll pull the drivers seat during the week and have a look under there too.
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Old 08-16-2011, 04:56:58 PM   #25
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Just been sorting the blowing exhaust with a new gasket, the old one had fallen apart and was held together with sealer...nothing suprises me on this car anymore.

Then got on to changing the carb over. Dumped the knackered old Carter now. It was leaking as well, which I hadn't noticed with the air filter fitted. Its been replaced with a 600CFM Holley now and the difference just ticking over and starting is impressive. Better phone the insurance company tomorrow and get that added to my policy.

Didnt get many pics as its dark outside now, only finished 15mins ago.

Replaced the factory cable bracket with one that let me connect up the kickdown linkage. Although I need to replace the accelerator cable as its not letting me get any where near full throttle either. Plus its been bodged with, yes you guessed it, chocolate block!

On a slightly related note, anyone know what this little switch is for? Its on the drivers side of the dizzy right at the back of the inlet manifold. Looks like some sort of temperature switch, but I am not sure.

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Old 08-17-2011, 03:55:23 PM   #26
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Finished off the carb install tonight, fitted a new Edelbrock filter which fits under the bonnet a bit better too.

Seems to start and idle much better now. First run up the road it was misfiring like a goodun under part throttle acceleration and low speed. Pulled the vac secondary diaphragm out and reseated it and it seems better now. Time will tell. The carb allegedly came from a 350. Runs a lot better anyway even if its still a little out. Will see how it goes longer term.

This is the old one



Really bodged as everything else is. M8 studs rammed into 5/16UNC threads, leaking vacuum connections and dripping fuel everywhere. No kickdown cable attached either.

And this is what I have ended up with, no manual choke cable fitted, but starts well anyway.




Just need to reconnect the vac advance on the dizzy when I am happy its running OK as it is at the moment.

And someone on another forum asked for a vid, so
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2C28riMVePE

There you go

Tomorrow I am hoping to get the new alternator fitted, and then this weekend I will be doing the floor and oil pan.
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Old 08-18-2011, 09:39:10 AM   #27
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good luck it seems like a lot of unskilled fingers were working on that car

I love the electrical connections I have never owned a car that someone did

not hack up the electrical harness
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Old 08-20-2011, 01:28:14 PM   #28
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Did the sump and gasket yesterday afternoon. Bit of a pain to do, but more fiddly than anything. I don't like laying under cars at the best of times, though rust in your eyes beats welding spatter in the ear any day.... As my engine is an 87 its the one with the single piece rubber gasket.

Transmission oil pan gasket - replaced the old cork one with a proper Felpro one

Transmission mount - old one completely disintegrated. Replaced with a new pattern part.

Alternator changed for a new unit - bearings shot in other one and it was all siezed together making stripping it nearly impossible.

Straightened out crank pulley - someone had damaged the rear groove meaning the power steering pump was being run on the wrong groove. Now fixed well enough for it to run properly. Fitted a new belt and now have a nice quiet power steering drive. No more squeaky belts

Front brake disc - failed....the one that was supplied with the car isn't right and takes a different sized outer bearing. So I need to order a new front disc/hub. Might do a brake upgrade while I am at it. May as well I suppose.

Good news is just been for a quick drive and the sump and transmission oil pan dont seem to be leaking any more. There is just another leak on the speedo cable as someone has damaged the thread so you can't do it up properly. Will have to just replace the cable...

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Old 08-21-2011, 03:58:52 PM   #29
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Still have a minor oil leak, but not enough to worry about now. Just a little at the front of the sump where it meets the timing cover. Could always stick some sealer in if i could be bothered, but the engine will be getting swapped soon anyway, so no major problem.

Also still have an intermittent whistling noise, loudest on overrun, quiet at cruise and stops under acceleration. Its not there all the time, and have yet to have it happen when idling, so finding it hard to pinpoint. I think it might be a vac leak somewhere so I have replaced the vac line down to the modulator on the transmission. It hadn't happened for ages, then started again today on and off. Loud enough to be annoying and embarrassing.

All the body seals/weather strips should arrive this week so I will be getting some of them fitted during the week. Though I will be holding off on the door mounted ones as I want to take the doors off and sort the bottom edges out properly as they have been badly repaired in the past. And I have to take them off to do the hinges anyway...

Also ordered an aluminium radiator and transmission cooler as my rad is leaking in more than one place and like a lot of things has been bodged to fit anyway. But that wont be here for another week or so.

So still loads to do...

Made a start on getting the parts together for my 355 build as well. 1968/69 4 bolt main block. Bored +.030". Just need to finsh swapping the core plugs, trimming up all the sharp edges and a few other bits. Also would like to get the block decked to 9.000" if I can find a machine shop to do it.



Also did a little work on the crank, nothing more than removing all the sharp edges as it was almost impossible to handle it without gloves. Its a nearly new crank from a crate Goodwrench engine that had only covered 1000miles when it was stripped. Its only a cast crank sadly, but I am not looking for more than 400bhp and will be keeping the rpm's down most of the time so hopefully it will be strong enough. I also gave the journals a quick polish up.




And these are the pistons, TRW L2304F. They are secondhand but unused, but I dont have much info about them. I think they are just over 10.5:1 with 64cc heads. The plan is to fit aluminium heads anyway so will see what I can find. Need to take a few high spots off from the crowns as well. Might give them a shine up as well.



So I am currently making a list of stuff to get. I was orginally planning on running a roller cam, but the price of all the hardware is putting me off big time. I dont want to end up running a high stall converter either as its a street car at the end of the day. So thinking about running a Lunati Voodoo 268/276 cam.

Need to get a full set of bearings and rings and a few other bits too... Hoping to have the engine built up before the end of the year and get it swapped over.

Last edited by flak monkey : 08-21-2011 at 04:17:43 PM.
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Old 08-26-2011, 03:14:44 PM   #30
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New drivers side front brake disc fitted and new pads to both sides.

Actually a reasonably easy job, looks like it will need new calipers at some point as the dust shields have fallen apart and the bleed nipples are broken on both sides.

The disc I removed is one of the worst grooved I have seen...quite how anyone lets them get this bad is beyond me. The outside is no better either. The grooves are about 4mm deep...!




Last night I made a start on fitting new hinge pins and bushes. Not too bad, worst part was lining the door back up as it was a mile out before I started and had been shimmed etc.

My method for getting the door off...



Then undo the bolts holding the hinge to the door and just balance the door on the jacks. Then shout for help to lift it down and place on a cushion or 2.

Body isn't in bad shape under the hinges, just some light surface rust which is now sorted. The car was originally dark metallic grey by the looks of the paint on the hinges and under the hinges. The cracks in the paint are just from a reaction when the car was sprayed, its all solid underneath.



Hardest parts of the job was reinstalling the detent spring, but a small gear puller had it sorted fairly quickly and realigning the door after refitting.

Door doesn't drop at all now and lines up much better after a lot of swearing. Needs new rubber buffers fitting and the wether strip after I do the panel work which will be next spring...



Got rained off, so drivers door tomorrow...

Drivers door next.

I have also ordered an aluminium radiator and transmission oil cooler as my existing rad is leaking and doesnt fit properly and it was cheaper than a genuine replacement. Should be here early next week.

Last edited by flak monkey : 08-26-2011 at 04:07:18 PM.
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