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03-28-2011, 04:55:18 AM
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#1
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Amarillo, Texas
Posts: 702
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Have a question about battery wire from trunk
I am relocating my battery. I have a 1 gauge power wire that I got for free from a parts car I have. Will this be ok to run to my starter from the battery? How exactly should I run this setup. Never hooked one up in the trunk before.
Last edited by joshp01 : 03-28-2011 at 06:26:07 AM.
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03-28-2011, 10:17:38 PM
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#2
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Lifetime Gold Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: atlanta, ga
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Last edited by Fbird : 03-28-2011 at 10:28:29 PM.
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03-29-2011, 12:42:13 AM
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#3
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Amarillo, Texas
Posts: 702
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Thanks man
,,read the nasty thread and it doesnt tell me anything about how to hook it up.
I am really looking for a diagram of how to wire everything the safest way possible without too many wires
Last edited by joshp01 : 03-29-2011 at 12:48:19 AM.
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03-29-2011, 09:44:58 PM
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#4
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Lifetime Gold Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: atlanta, ga
Posts: 1,481
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The other thread is just 1 to watch as it seems to be the same thing. Just in case you don't get replies. The mad electric link should give you enough info on HOW to wire it up to keep from catching fire. 1st....what is your electrical "know how"? NFC?....mediocra?....verygood? (No F*king Clue)
Kinda gotta know How to detailed to get here. Could write 25 pages so my 7yr old could do it....or write 1 page for somebody that just needs to know which wire to cut from the ignition switch and how to run the atlernator wire back to the trunk?
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03-30-2011, 03:26:38 AM
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#6
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Amarillo, Texas
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Thanks Twisted!
Yea Fbird I just need to know what wire to take back etc
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03-30-2011, 08:54:59 AM
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#7
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Lifetime Gold Member
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Location: Joplin Mo. 64801
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by joshp01
I am relocating my battery. I have a 1 gauge power wire that I got for free from a parts car I have. Will this be ok to run to my starter from the battery? How exactly should I run this setup. Never hooked one up in the trunk before.
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NO you need two 1 gauge cables.
You must ground the battery directly to the engine block.
You can actually use 4 gauge on both cables.
It doesn't matter how well you ground the engine to the frame and the battery to the frame, it won't be enough. Run a dedicated Ground cable too.
__________________
71 Camaro 355 NA
11.1650 @ 119.30
1.5028 60'
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Originally Posted by Lowend
For the record I agree with Aces and hhott71
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Originally Posted by Lowend
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04-02-2011, 07:29:16 AM
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#8
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Lifetime Gold Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: atlanta, ga
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by hhott71
NO you need two 1 gauge cables.
You must ground the battery directly to the engine block.
You can actually use 4 gauge on both cables.
It doesn't matter how well you ground the engine to the frame and the battery to the frame, it won't be enough. Run a dedicated Ground cable too.
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I would have to respectfully disagree! While you can NOT use the little braided wire from GM to ground your engine for this application, you certainly do NOT want or need another 20ft of 1 gauge cable. A simple 1 gauge cable to ground the engine to the frame and a 1gauge cable to ground the batt to the frame.
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/tm-1.shtml
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The battery ground (NEG) is connected to the car body at the rear. And up front, another short length 1/0 cable connects from body to the engine. This system uses the car body for the long intermediate length of the NEG side of the system all the way to the engine. (It’s actually more efficient than routing a heavy gauge cable all the way forward to the engine.)
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The wire you are wanting to run to the trunk would be the "excite/start" wire from the ignition switch ----> the ford solenoid in the trunk. ALSO u will need to run a charging wire from the main harness to the +battery or battery side of new solenoid. This 8 gauge wire MUST have a FUSE...again chat with the guy at mad and read his stuff.
Last edited by Fbird : 04-02-2011 at 07:37:11 AM.
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04-02-2011, 04:50:08 PM
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#9
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Amarillo, Texas
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Hey thanks so much fbird
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07-29-2011, 01:44:53 PM
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#10
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Amarillo, Texas
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About to finally get this wired up. Just wanted some clarification. So I will run my 0 gauge welding wire from the battery to the starter, ground the engine the frame up front, ground the battery to the frame out back, and two 8 gauge wires from the front to theback- one from the harness to the battery for a charging wire and one as the excite wire to the ford solenoid. Does this sound correct? Anyone have a diagram of how to connect it all the the solenoid? Thanks for all the help guys!
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07-29-2011, 02:46:21 PM
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#11
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Greenville MS
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You can put a power distribution Post/block on the firewall above the starter. Run your Battery to it. Then run from it to the starter. Can charge to that post and not run the charging wire all the way back to the trunk.
You can run the power wires that normally hook to the starter to the post/block also. That way you only have the one power cable going to the starter. And 1 solenoid wire.
You can look at the Madelectric link above. I also posted some pics a few days ago on this same subject.
EDIT: here is my post with the pics in it. http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showpo...72&postcount=5
Last edited by Hoot : 07-29-2011 at 02:49:52 PM.
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07-29-2011, 04:11:52 PM
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#12
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Amarillo, Texas
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Thanks Hoot! So I only need the one wire coming up from the trunk? And take it from the battery to the distribution block?
__________________
1972 True Z28
QA1 Coilovers
Trz Control Arms
Summit Warriors
Lowered 2.5"
Hooker 1-7/8 headers
Pypes X pipe & Violators
02 TA Seats
Strange Brakes
Hurst Quarter Stick
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07-29-2011, 04:51:58 PM
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#13
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Greenville MS
Posts: 1,485
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yup. Then you can run smaller from the post to the starter if you want. Since it is a short distance. Just think of the distribution block as a remote battery post.
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07-29-2011, 07:41:21 PM
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#14
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Veteran Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: nj
Posts: 528
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yeah my car starts twice as quick with the ground going from the battery to frame rail in the rear, then nice ground from engine to frame..Along with the other good grounds needed..Neglected grounds are horrible..Theres a pic in my build of the rear mounted selenoid, breaker for alt wire, fusible links.and whatnot if you need them..
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07-29-2011, 08:05:14 PM
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#15
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Amarillo, Texas
Posts: 702
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Awesome. Thanks guys I appreciate it
__________________
1972 True Z28
QA1 Coilovers
Trz Control Arms
Summit Warriors
Lowered 2.5"
Hooker 1-7/8 headers
Pypes X pipe & Violators
02 TA Seats
Strange Brakes
Hurst Quarter Stick
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