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Old 12-13-2010, 06:10:21 AM   #1
grzewnicki
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Gordon's 1972 Z28

As I bought it Nov of 2009, 83,000 original miles, 350 CT (circle track engine, don't know why!) 4 spd muncie, 10 bolt 3.73 posi. The body is incredibly straight. The rust issues were trunk pan, floor under rear seat-drivers side, floor under drivers feet and around the window glass. It had a vinyl top when new and that contributed to the rust around the windows. Well that led to water getting inside the car and rusting the trunk and pass. compartment floor. But I would rather replace those than any body pieces. The front fenders are rusted behind the front wheels, I am going to repair those. The only bondo on the car was left rear quarter, looks like it got hit, I replaced the sheet metal in that area. It has one crappy coat of paint on top of the factory mulsanne blue.



Start of disassembly, the worst part was the wiring, any splice (probably 20 throughout all the wiring) was done by twisting wires together & wrapping with black tape. Why this car had not gone up in flame was beyond me. The motor ran poorly,plugs 3/5/4/6 were only hand tight, the header gaskets for some reason enshrouded the plugs on 3-4-5-6 cylinders and you could not get a socket on the plugs, also the cam was noisy, turned out PO had put a Comp cam solid lifter circle track cam in it (still don't know why!). I used PB Blaster on everything prior to disassembly, that plus the fact that this car was in pretty good shape means I didn't strip one bolt, or have to resort to cutting anything.



under side was not to bad, the black stuff was not under coat and hitting it with the sandblaster it flew off with hardly any effort. I sandblasted the entire bottom just enough to knock the gloss off the original GM primer. Thank god it was summer, I would come home from work in my uniform, lay on my back under the car and blast away (respirator and shield on). When I was down, just strip out of my clothes and jump in the pool to get the sand off!



The after pic... shot with PPG DP74LF epoxy primer. Matches original GM color, well worth the $150/gallon (not including catalyst which ran $90).



Bought a Harbor Freight sandblaster, used Ace Hardware medium silica sand (run through a piece of window screen prior to using). Worked pretty good, 5 HP 30 Gal compressor was put to the test. Prior to dropping subframe I set car up on jackstands (level) and dropped all the body and frame alignment marks to masking tape on the garage floor using a plumb bob and checked measurements between marks against Fisher Body book specs. It was dead on.



All my parts; frame, suspensions pieces, gas tank, misc brackets, well anything that needed paint got shot on the side of my house.



Final paint, used PPG shop line JAU 9300 acrylic urethane with flatting agent for right level of gloss.



Front end shot, spindles and steering gear was done in the Classic industries mimic paint to look like raw steel. I reinstalled front subframe with poly bushings, the original set were not in that bad of shape. Once again, I jacked and leveled car. used a plumb bob to drop the alignment holes to pieces of masking tape on the garage floor and measured between them to ensure the frame was aligned with the body, I was only off a 1/16 of an inch which a slight tap of a hammer sqaured it away.



I tore the engine down and found cam assembly lube still in the lifter valley, the cylinders still showed a good crosshatch pattern. I don't think this engine had any miles on it. Plugs were completly black, terminals inside distributor were burned up, and that combined with the loose spark plugs and misadjusted lifters was why it ran poorly.





Did a bunch of research and decided to go with the LT4 Hot Cam. When I took the valve springs off all the intake valves had no seals, seems the comp cam that was in the motor had intake lift over .500 so instead of having Vortec heads properly machined for clearance PO just left the seals off. Heads got machined to accept .500 lift cam, bigger springs and screw in studs.

The motor back at home. The engine was running by August of this year, and I drove it out of the garage in October, albeit with no front end sheetmetal, and only a drivers seat for an interior.


Last edited by grzewnicki : 02-11-2011 at 05:04:58 AM.
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Old 12-13-2010, 10:56:07 AM   #2
Paulyray
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Looks great!
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Old 12-13-2010, 11:03:06 AM   #3
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nice work..keep it going.
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Old 12-13-2010, 11:08:53 AM   #4
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'72 Z fairly rare car. looks good so far. Keep the pics coming.
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Old 12-13-2010, 01:16:49 PM   #5
Blu-By-U 79Z
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You did a great job. The floors look awesome underthere. The detail work you did was great. On your floors did you try to get most of the factory paint off or did you leave most of it on there. Im currently trying to figure out how to do my floors and was curious. As far as epoxy did u just apply a coat or 2 and call it good? Thanks alot Keep at it! -Matt
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Old 12-13-2010, 05:42:05 PM   #6
grzewnicki
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blu-By-U 79Z
You did a great job. The floors look awesome underthere. The detail work you did was great. On your floors did you try to get most of the factory paint off or did you leave most of it on there. Im currently trying to figure out how to do my floors and was curious. As far as epoxy did u just apply a coat or 2 and call it good? Thanks alot Keep at it! -Matt


I only blasted enough to get the gloss off the factory primer. If the metal underneath is in good shape you never want to go past the factory primer (body included) your never gonna get anything as good as that to cover the bare metal with. Nowif I saw a rust spot, yea I went down to bare metal. I hit bare spots with self etching primer as I worked on it. The final step was getting all the sand out. First I used my air force blower (for drying motorcycles, like a vacuum on steroids in reverse with a heater). Then I flooded everything with water, inside every nook, cranny and void, then the blower again. Seems to have gotten 99% of the sand out. Bottom was shot with 2 coats of the primer. It looked so good when it was done I wanted to turn it upside down and eat off it
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Old 12-13-2010, 05:50:02 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by High Country Z
'72 Z fairly rare car. looks good so far. Keep the pics coming.


yea and a 4 speed to boot. Only if it had the original motor and trans! Trying to keep it as original as possible.
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Old 12-13-2010, 05:57:00 PM   #8
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Nice work..keep the pic's comming
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Old 12-13-2010, 09:50:46 PM   #9
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Awesome, looks great!
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Old 12-13-2010, 10:52:11 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grzewnicki
I only blasted enough to get the gloss off the factory primer. If the metal underneath is in good shape you never want to go past the factory primer (body included) your never gonna get anything as good as that to cover the bare metal with. Nowif I saw a rust spot, yea I went down to bare metal. I hit bare spots with self etching primer as I worked on it. The final step was getting all the sand out. First I used my air force blower (for drying motorcycles, like a vacuum on steroids in reverse with a heater). Then I flooded everything with water, inside every nook, cranny and void, then the blower again. Seems to have gotten 99% of the sand out. Bottom was shot with 2 coats of the primer. It looked so good when it was done I wanted to turn it upside down and eat off it

Thanks alot for the info. Great work. Cant wait for the next update.
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Progress Thread: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showth...=144866&page=1

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1979 Camaro Z28, Code 24 Bright Blue With Blue Decals and Black Interior.

ZZZZ__22__8888
__Z__2__2_8___8
_Z_____2__88888
Z_____2___8___8
ZZZZ_2222_8888
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Old 01-22-2011, 08:27:43 PM   #11
grzewnicki
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starting on the door jambs so I can get front sheetmetal hung and front fenders repaired. Stripped the paint in the hinge area and rocker.






but where the weatherstrip goes and at the latch end I sanded with 80 grit to get rid of the last paint job (poor surface prep under that paint), then hit it with 120. Don't know if I need to sand finer than 120.





going to use a filler/primer on the jambs after I prime them with something other than the rattle can etching primer. If anyone has suggestions on jamb prep please post them! Can I shoot epoxy primer over the etching primer? The car is going to be in primer for a while, should I just shoot the jamps with epoxy primer vice the etching? Then shoot them just before painting with a filler primer?


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Last edited by grzewnicki : 01-22-2011 at 08:31:01 PM.
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Old 01-22-2011, 08:52:42 PM   #12
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looks awesome!
now lay some orange on her!
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Old 01-23-2011, 05:07:26 AM   #13
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Nice work, i really need to get out in my cold garage and get to work on mine.
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Old 01-23-2011, 06:48:12 AM   #14
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Your doing an excellent job on your car, workmanship looks top notch. I believe i have read somewhere on here that you shouldnt apply epoxy over the etch primer... You might want to post a question up in the bodywork section. Ill be watching for your updates, keep up the good work. Rob
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Old 01-23-2011, 08:29:14 AM   #15
grzewnicki
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Done Yet?
Your doing an excellent job on your car, workmanship looks top notch. I believe i have read somewhere on here that you shouldnt apply epoxy over the etch primer... You might want to post a question up in the bodywork section. Ill be watching for your updates, keep up the good work. Rob
yea I read that somewhere also, but not before I already did it, was just on some small parts and some small spots on my inner fenderwells. They have all been painted for 6 months or so and I haven't seen any problems with it. I'll post it over in the body work section and see what the consensus is...
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