chromabase system

[Kamikaze]

I support the info section on B & P for Mark!!!

As an ex-Dupont guy, I know his knowledge is solid and has helped out alot of members!

[70-SS/RS-L78]

Originally Posted by CamarosRus

Thanks for all the comments guys................FYI, My BLACK comments were directed at or about those parts, other than the actual exterior sheetmetal. Subframe, differential, core support, firewall,
heater box, air cleaner, inner wheel house, control arms, etc.

If I'm not mistaken, these parts are done with single stage and not color sanded or buffed. What you spray is what you get ??? As I earlier said, most restored cars I see the black has too much peel and or dirt, not to mention the shades are the wrong gloss or all the same shade, period (wrong)

Shop I spoke with that painted the highest scoring Carlisle LEGENDS car weve ever had, said he used upwards of ten Black formulas (Gray/Black, Brown/Black, Green/Black, etc etc all mixed starting from GLASURIT/BASF single stage.

I'll post pics, but honestly my camera work is not any better than my spray gun work (NOT!!!!!!!!)
EARLY SECOND, Could you please be more specific with which SPI product(s) you use and recommend, AND the BASE color brand you go to. In my case I'll need to MATCH code 17 Shadow Gray, with its subtle metallic.

Sincerely,

Chuck are you talking about the different Shades and Matt finishes of black on the chassis, suspension and under hood? If so I agree. I see too many people using a semi gloss black on these parts and it is NOT correct on a restoration. It’s fine on a custom build but not a restoration. We have a few different black formulas and matt percentages that we use.

[CamarosRus]

Mark and everyone, The pictures below show argueably the best restored 70 Z-28 that has ever been brought to Camaros at Carlisle LEGENDS judging.

Most of the top restored cars (all brands) in the country are "over restored". That's what owners want, and that's what car show spectators like. It sure beats the alternative where a car is restored incorrectly with monotone black undercarriage, mediocre paint, chrome, stainless trim etc etc just so-so.

I believe both cars below were painted with BASF/Glasurit.............

My lousy photograpy skills dont capture what I'm trying to get at it, but its the best I could do at the time.

[CamarosRus]

[70ZL3]

It would be great if someone could compile a list of paint formulas for various chassis and underhood parts. Stating paint brands, paint codes an actual mixing formula of paint and flattening agent in millilitres or by percentage ratios? To achieve a desired gloss (considered correct) for a specific part or area of car, firewall, inner fenders etc. Also a list of recommended people,companies that perform restoration/plating services for various mechanical parts carbs,alternators,power brake boosters etc. Make this a sticky in Body Restoration, Original Drivetrain section?

[earlysecond]

Craig,
It takes more effort to keep the micro scratches caused by cutting/compounding/polishing from being visable. Certainly it is not impossible just much more time consuming and often involves repeating steps of the compound/polish proceedure

Chuck,
I use SPI epoxy for the following reasons:
1. easy to spray
2. great adhesion and corriosion resistance
3. Percentage of gloss makes determining how well the bodywok is finished a snap. It is shiner than most and shows even small imperfections
4. Actually builds and sands (not as much as a high build but enough that you often do no have to use high build if only minimal fill is needed.
5. Customer Service at SPI is great
6. Value (not just price but that is a winner as well)

SPI universal clear
1. easy to mix and spray
2. forgiving (helpful for those of us who do not paint everyday)
3. Polyurethane that builds well with fewer coats
4. Finishes easily sands easilyand buffs to a nice finish
5. Appears to make a nice gloss that is resistant
6. Value

There are likely better choices in the SPI line for a glamour type clear but I have not experimented. They make Universal, Medium Solids and High Solids and the owner has explained the differences in great detail on their forum.

I have little to no experience with SS paints other than making satin/flat black custom mixes with flattening agent. It seems to me from limited expereince that unless you have the proper scientific equiptment to measure gloss. . .a lot of it is subjective, as you probably know from judging the appearence on restored cars like the ones you have shown.

That is what I know. I am not saying that SPI is the only option. I am not saying that I tried every paint under the sun. Last year they had several judged cars at Pebble Beach, that probably says that in the hands of a competent painter, the product can run with the big dog manufactuers who charge many times more money for their paint. Hope this all makes sense?

[CamarosRus]

This was a great thread.............and I'm bringing it back from its inactive stage...............

[TX79Z28]

Mark or any of the other experienced painters,

Is there an issue with using SPI epoxy and filler primers, HOK base, and SPI universal clear? I know it has been mentioned about using Chroma or Nason over SPI, but is HOK base more "picky"?

[earlysecond]

TX call them up, they will be glad to answer your quick question. Probably one of the best companies for customer service out there.

[TX79Z28]

Originally Posted by earlysecond

TX call them up, they will be glad to answer your quick question. Probably one of the best companies for customer service out there.

I will do that. I was just wondering what the experiences had been from our local resident paint gurus. I have to call them to order some clear for my "test" panels (trying to narrow down the exact blue that I want)