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Old 06-18-2010, 06:01:33 PM   #1
muscl car
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pros / cons of running a aluminum water pump

is there any advantage of running a aluminum water pump besides saving 7lbs of weight off of the front of the motor . prices for these aluminum pumps are insane with prices starting at $150 and up , i can get a nice stock cast iron hvy duty version long pump from kragens for $75.00
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Old 06-18-2010, 06:22:56 PM   #2
badazz81z28
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Originally Posted by muscl car
is there any advantage of running a aluminum water pump besides saving 7lbs of weight off of the front of the motor . prices for these aluminum pumps are insane with prices starting at $150 and up , i can get a nice stock cast iron hvy duty version long pump from kragens for $75.00


I bought an aluminum water pump from White Performance on Ebay. Cost like $60 and works fine. If I recall Lifetime Warranty too.
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Old 06-18-2010, 06:25:02 PM   #3
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I bought an aluminum water pump from White Performance on Ebay. Cost like $60 and works fine. If I recall Lifetime Warranty too.


i try and stay far away from EVILBAY !!!!
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1972 chevy camaro ss

1970 LT1 350sbc / 425hp 11.1:1 comp, GM #140 off-road solid lifter cam ,holley strip dominator
2" open spacer and holley 750dp ...........all old school 70's performance parts

old school pic

my old school camaro idle video
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Old 06-18-2010, 06:39:09 PM   #4
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here's what i've found so far from summit and are all cast aluminum natural finish:


weiand action plus water pump $94.20


weiand/team G water pump $ 161.95

edelbrock $155

proform $62


over on speedwaymotors.com they've got really nice competion style aluminum water pumps with very high flow rates but are all short design style and would need the spacers to make it into a long version .they do have a stewart stage I cast iron pump for $69
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1972 chevy camaro ss

1970 LT1 350sbc / 425hp 11.1:1 comp, GM #140 off-road solid lifter cam ,holley strip dominator
2" open spacer and holley 750dp ...........all old school 70's performance parts

old school pic

my old school camaro idle video
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Old 06-18-2010, 07:18:32 PM   #5
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the only thing I would point out to you is to fill the cooling system with Distilled Water and not Tap water. In nearly any circumstance, mineral deposits in regular tap water does not allow full ability to transfer heat when used with anti freeze, Red Line Water Wetter, Pro Blend 40 Below, or other cooling additives. Also, distilled water will help reduce the electrolysis process in eating away the aluminum casting...
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Old 06-18-2010, 09:32:18 PM   #6
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The weight and longevity alone is worth using aluminum.
My Stewart is probably 20 years old, and no rotted spots.
It's also only seen distilled water, and is drained 1/2 the year.
For a well maintained street car aluminum might not be worth it??

.
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Old 06-18-2010, 10:21:02 PM   #7
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Chuck, aside from weight, an aluminum pump has no advantage on a typical street driven car. My factory pump does just fine on the hottest days with the A/C running in bumper to bumper traffic.
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Old 06-19-2010, 01:51:17 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Kamikaze
the only thing I would point out to you is to fill the cooling system with Distilled Water and not Tap water. In nearly any circumstance, mineral deposits in regular tap water does not allow full ability to transfer heat when used with anti freeze, Red Line Water Wetter, Pro Blend 40 Below, or other cooling additives. Also, distilled water will help reduce the electrolysis process in eating away the aluminum casting...


its nice to hear someone else join the electrolysis bandwagon. there are so many doubters out there but i have seen the terror it can cause. i try to limit my aluminium parts especially radiators as their lifespan can be cut very short with a stray current problem.

in saying that i think thick parts like waterpumps , heads, manifolds etc are way more durable to it than a thin, weak radiator tube is so i have no problem in buying those kind of parts.

i run weiind pumps..cant remember what series they are unfortunatly

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Old 06-19-2010, 02:29:07 AM   #9
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I've been running a tall Edelbrock aluminum water pump (IIRC) for 11 years now, with tap water and Prestone, driven a couple thousand miles per year. Only flushed twice in its life, with a stint sitting for four years without any attention. Not a single leak or bearing failure. Seems to be stout piece for the relative abuse I've provided it. That said, the big difference in cooling for my car came from a Be Cool radiator. Swapping to the aluminum pump just saved weight for me. It didn't change cooling performance.
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Old 06-19-2010, 04:21:17 AM   #10
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I have a Prof Products alum w/p. Its the one thing on the entire engine that bolted on and worked properly.
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Old 06-19-2010, 01:01:04 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muscl car
is there any advantage of running a aluminum water pump besides saving 7lbs of weight off of the front of the motor . prices for these aluminum pumps are insane with prices starting at $150 and up , i can get a nice stock cast iron hvy duty version long pump from kragens for $75.00

Last Rebuilt SBC long water pump I bought was in the $20 range.

The aluminum ones are of the short variety (the ones I've seen) and won't bolt up post '69 accessories. You can by spacers to line up Long water pump pulleys, the power steering and alternator mounts aren't there.
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Old 06-19-2010, 01:47:55 PM   #12
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I bought an aluminum water pump from midwest motorsports about 5 years ago for $69, still going strong. Looks like they have a better 1 for $79 with a lifetime warr. http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com...2848&parent=75 And many others to choose from.
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Old 06-20-2010, 08:43:04 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by gingerbreadman
its nice to hear someone else join the electrolysis bandwagon. there are so many doubters out there but i have seen the terror it can cause. i try to limit my aluminium parts especially radiators as their lifespan can be cut very short with a stray current problem. in saying that i think thick parts like waterpumps , heads, manifolds etc are way more durable to it than a thin, weak radiator tube is so i have no problem in buying those kind of parts.

i run weiind pumps..cant remember what series they are unfortunatly



What do mean? A copper radiator or a cast water pump is just a susceptable to stray voltage than anything part made of metal...

Since all the new cars have nearly aluminum everything...They must not be too "hazardous" for a DD
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Old 06-20-2010, 10:00:55 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by badazz81z28
What do mean? A copper radiator or a cast water pump is just a susceptable to stray voltage than anything part made of metal...

Since all the new cars have nearly aluminum everything...They must not be too "hazardous" for a DD

aluminum deteriorates faster than cast iron. it goes for the metal that is the easiest to rot. there is a zinc anode available that is to be installed into the drain hole plug of the radiator. it's is the sacraficial part vs aluminum because it eats that first before the aluminum/brass/copper/iron.

it's "the mix" of using the dissimilar metals in "one system" that sets up the process of electrolosis in the first place. so,, the sacraficial anode would be the best bet to use when using different metals in a cooling system. hope it helps.
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Old 06-20-2010, 10:04:27 AM   #15
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stick the red probe of a volt ohm meter in your radiators filler neck,, into the water,, and ground the other end to the body somewhere. if you show more than 3-4 volts,, your rusting/rotting things. flush/change the coolant. it is totally an electrical process for sure.
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