Driveshaft question

[Aceshigh]

My new rear end has a 1350....tongue or whatever you call it.

My stock driveshaft I'm assuming has all stock stuff, I'm assuming 1310.
Do I need to match it and upgrade everything to 1350 or no ??

[muscl car]

Originally Posted by Aceshigh

My new rear end has a 1350....tongue or whatever you call it.

My stock driveshaft I'm assuming has all stock stuff, I'm assuming 1310.
Do I need to match it and upgrade everything to 1350 or no ??

if the yoke is a different size from what the u-joint is then either build a new driveshaft with correct components or buy a conversion u-joint

[BonzoHansen]

Ace, your local driveshaft shop can take care of what you need. Shortening, balancing, correct joints

[Aceshigh]

Dammit.....

I was hoping for a "Yes it will work".
I was going to install the 12 bolt now, and the T56 later.

But not if I have to modify my driveshaft 2x to do this......
So obviously everything has to be 1350 to match......

Originally Posted by BonzoHansen

Ace, your local driveshaft shop can take care of what you need. Shortening, balancing, correct joints

Yeah I know, used em before 8 years ago for the 700R4 install.
Just didn't want to have to do this 2x.....in one year.

[Aceshigh]

$120 to do it. Not bad I guess.....

It was $94 several years ago for a shortening and balancing.

[a550550]

I think I have a 1310 yoke off of my 10 bolt that I would give you. Not sure if it is the same or not. Otherwize just buy the 1310 yoke and use it until you swap the trans. I think they are only about $25-30

I upgraded to a 1350.

[79camaro2001]

Or you can just swap u-joints if the driveshaft is the correct length.

That's what a conversion U-joint is designed for, it will get you going until you finalize your drivetrain swap.

[a550550]

That too--even cheaper AND easier

[Aceshigh]

Originally Posted by 79camaro2001

Or you can just swap u-joints if the driveshaft is the correct length.

That's what a conversion U-joint is designed for, it will get you going until you finalize your drivetrain swap.

Okay, I found some U-tube video's on how to swap a U-joint.
I'm leary of doing anything that typically has to be balanced.
So I don't need anything at the transmission end yoke changed ??
Shop was saying they had to cut off the yoke and replace it too.....

So this here Conversion U-joint is all I need you're saying??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=140336019212

[Ryan 79]

You can get a U Joint that has the 1310 ends on one side and 1350 ends on the other.

I ran a conversion joint for 1000 miles or so, and would have no problem using it permanently.

As long as you're driveshaft is the correct length, you'll be fine. Take a u joint cap of each style(one 1310 and one 1350) down to Napa(don't even bother with Schucks), show them what you need, and you should be good to go.

[Aceshigh]

My main concern is the slip yoke......the end that goes into the trans.

Does it have to be changed to match as well ??

[79camaro2001]

Originally Posted by Aceshigh

My main concern is the slip yoke......the end that goes into the trans.

Does it have to be changed to match as well ??

Well Ace, if you change the transmission while you are changing the rear end then you need to look into the slip yoke to make sure it will work with your new transmission. I'm not sure about your combination so I won't say yea or naw. But if you keep the same transmission and going to run the new rear end for a little bit then just make sure it's the right length for the setup as sometime different rear end will pull the yoke out a little further then recommended. If you are keeping the same transmission in while running the new rear end then all you need to do is change the rear U-joint with a conversion U-joint and make sure the drive shaft is not pulling the yoke too far out of the transmission. You got a little play with how far it can come out but I wouldn't go any farther then 1/4" if you are going to punch it often.

So If you are just changing rear end then use a conversion joint and check drive shaft length, the length can be checked before buying a U-joint.

If changing rear end and transmission then I would just get a new drive shaft built for your setup.

If Drive shaft is too short or too long after rear end swap then might just go ahead and finish the upgrades and build a drive shaft.

[Aceshigh]

Thanks Cody.

That's what I was looking for. So the slip yoke doesn't have to be changed.
Just the rear conversion U-joint. Cool, thanks.