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Old 08-12-2005, 12:07:00 AM   #1
Twisted_Metal
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Thumbs up Body Bushing Installation Tip

I found a real easy way to replace the body subframe bushings. The whole trick is the jack placement!

I did one side at a time as the Energy Suspension kit (polygraphite) instructed.

First, I loosened ALL FOUR of the body mount bolts several turns. (I used PB Blaster on them a few times over the past month.)

Now, put the floor jack on the outside of the frame rail and inboard of the lower portion of the fender. Like so...



Then, I took the front bushing bolt completely out, took off the washer and put the bolt in the alignment hole next to that bushing. This keeps the frame from shifting!

Take out the rear bolt. Don't worry about the old bushings yet.

Place a 5 inch long piece of 2x4 in the area shown in the photo above and jack the body up just enough to remove the old bushings.

Once you have it high enough to remove the old ones, you should have enough room to drop the new ones in between the body and the frame. No prying should be needed but you may have to give the collars of the old bushings a rap with a hammer to push them up and out of the frame.

Now, lower the body down on the bushings and thread the bolts up into place with the other bushing halves and washers. Don't tighten them yet, just thread them in 1/2" or so.

Remove the jack and repeat the process on the other side.

Now, torque the bushing bolts to 90-100 ft/lbs and remove the alignment bolts.

If any of you wonder what kind of conditon these bushings are in after 25 years...



I hope this helps anybody that is planning to do this job without pullling the subframe off of the car. It really isn't a tough job!

It only took a little over an hour to do these four bushings.

Wish me luck on the ones by the radiator support!

[This message has been edited by Twisted_Metal (edited August 12, 2005).]
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Old 08-12-2005, 01:07:00 AM   #2
tom3
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It really isn't a tough job! Looking into this pretty soon myself. Hoping you're right.
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Old 08-12-2005, 09:36:00 AM   #3
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It was one of the first things I did when I started preping my 74. I too found it a relatively easy task.
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Old 08-12-2005, 09:57:00 AM   #4
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Made a HUGE difference in the way mine drove.


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Old 08-12-2005, 10:35:00 PM   #5
BonzoHansen
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Another winter task for me.

Hey, you gonna reuse that bolt?
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Old 08-13-2005, 12:44:00 AM   #6
Twisted_Metal
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Quote:
<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by BonzoHansen:
Hey, you gonna reuse that bolt?
</font>

Only as a paperweight.

The bolts I reused for the alignment holes weren't nearly as bad.

I drove the car today and it really does make a difference in how it handles and rides. (The ride is a little firmer, less rattling in the dash/cowl area and the steering feels better too.) I've replaced these bushings, the rear springs and shocks this year. What a difference!
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Old 08-13-2005, 09:11:00 PM   #7
3origZlovers
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If you've installed sfc's and need to install body mount bushings read..

http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/Forum2/HTML/011128.html

Prob. easier to do the bushings first, sfc's 2nd. (not what I did)
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Old 08-14-2005, 11:35:00 PM   #8
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Congratulations. That rusty junk looks a lot like mine did after removal. Aren't you glad you started soaking those bolts ahead of time? Let me know when you're ready for SFCs and I'll try to be there to help if you need it.

BTW Terry--where did you get your wheels balanced? I've still got that pesky front end vibration to deal with and a long road trip coming up.

Cheers
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Old 08-15-2005, 02:54:00 AM   #9
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I am in the middle of changing my bushings now and the holes in the subframe was totaly rusted out but it turned out well after welding some new metal in.

I have not put the new bushings in yet but when I lift the body from the subframe as high as I have the guts to do I still miss a little bit to get the new byushings in, is it really possible to raise the body high enough without bending anything? I have to put a lot of force on the jack and still miss a little bit.

Thanks /Magnus
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Old 08-15-2005, 09:59:00 AM   #10
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Quote:
<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by Magnus:
... when I lift the body from the subframe as high as I have the guts to do I still miss a little bit to get the new bushings in, is it really possible to raise the body high enough without bending anything?</font>

I know what you mean. I cringed when I jacked mine up too. If you have the bolts completely out on one side and loose on the other side, it WILL lift far enough without prying. (I heard a little crunching noise when I lifted mine but it was only the jack biting into the 2x4. )
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Old 08-15-2005, 11:33:00 AM   #11
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Quote:
<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by Twisted_Metal:
I know what you mean. I cringed when I jacked mine up too. If you have the bolts completely out on one side and loose on the other side, it WILL lift far enough without prying. (I heard a little crunching noise when I lifted mine but it was only the jack biting into the 2x4. ) </font>

Ok, good to know that it is possible. I also heard those crunching noises that you don't want to hear from your Camaro so I stoped by then. I will try again next weekend.

Thanks /Magnus
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"If you're under control, you're not going fast enough"

1972 Rally Sport
Frame off restoration during 4700 hours. All the work, including paint was done by me.
350 cui, M21, 10 bolt 3.73 posi.

1971 Z28
355 cui, TH350 (original M22 car), 10 bolt 3.73 posi.

1982 Z28E
305 cui, TH200, 10 bolt 3.23 posi.
1 of 1300 Z28E (Export) built, RPO J65 RWD.

http://www.garaget.org/CamaroZ22
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Old 08-19-2005, 06:34:00 PM   #12
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I changed the bushings today and it was no problem, the subframe on the left side was not rotten so I didnt have to weld anything. I just have the realignment the subframe again and then I can tighten the bolts again.

I do have one question: On the left side there was some type of shims between the subframe and the lower bushing, I have no idea why they are there because I dont see what they do, if they are some kind of alignment shims they should be beween the subframe and the floor, not the subframe and the washer, right? There was none on the right side, anyone seen these while changing bushings?

They are about 1 mm thick.

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"If you're under control, you're not going fast enough"

1972 Rally Sport
Frame off restoration during 4700 hours. All the work, including paint was done by me.
350 cui, M21, 10 bolt 3.73 posi.

1971 Z28
355 cui, TH350 (original M22 car), 10 bolt 3.73 posi.

1982 Z28E
305 cui, TH200, 10 bolt 3.23 posi.
1 of 1300 Z28E (Export) built, RPO J65 RWD.

http://www.garaget.org/CamaroZ22
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Old 08-19-2005, 11:53:00 PM   #13
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I think those are just part of the bushing. I saw one of them on mine but I think the others had simply disintegrated. Nothing to worry about, the new bushings have all the pieces that they need and all of the old hardware should be cleaned out like you did.

Glad it worked out for you!
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Old 08-20-2005, 02:17:00 AM   #14
Magnus
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Ok, then I know. Thanks for the help.

Magnus
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"If you're under control, you're not going fast enough"

1972 Rally Sport
Frame off restoration during 4700 hours. All the work, including paint was done by me.
350 cui, M21, 10 bolt 3.73 posi.

1971 Z28
355 cui, TH350 (original M22 car), 10 bolt 3.73 posi.

1982 Z28E
305 cui, TH200, 10 bolt 3.23 posi.
1 of 1300 Z28E (Export) built, RPO J65 RWD.

http://www.garaget.org/CamaroZ22
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Old 03-30-2006, 03:19:24 PM   #15
Skaal-tel 79
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This thread is ancient but the pics are awesome and I'm about to go try this today so... Thanks again twisted!

further digging to add to this thread- this pic from "ls1, 1971"
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