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Old 07-21-2009, 11:43:14 AM   #16
QUAKE_WARS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Wright
It's not that bad.....right now you have a -3° on the trans tail shaft...that isn't all that bad..now figure out what is your pinion angle....to figure the driveline issues.

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showpo...87&postcount=6

For the moment I am gonna do all the basic stuff first.

Cut tunnel for shifter hole
cut tab on crossmember to relocate.
assemble clutch pressure plate.

And a LT1 starter is needed as I found out. Stock auto does not work.
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Old 07-21-2009, 12:33:27 PM   #17
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His trans tail is -3 relative to the carb mounting pad, not relative to actual zero level, right? So that still doesn't tell us anything. He needs to know the trans tail relative to the pinion. I think measuring the angle formed by the centerline of the trans output would be easier figured as 90 deg relative to the flat surface on the balancer, since its a larger, flatter surface than sticking an angle finder on the end of the trans mainshaft. And then the driveshaft will make 1/2 that angle at each joint. I think.

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Old 07-21-2009, 12:35:47 PM   #18
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Sounds like you are on the right track!

What motor is this going behind? Just curious on what you are going to use for a flywheel if it is a 2 peice rear main.
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Old 07-21-2009, 07:49:55 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUE72CAMARO
Sounds like you are on the right track!

What motor is this going behind? Just curious on what you are going to use for a flywheel if it is a 2 peice rear main.

99 roller cam vortec 350 with a 97 LT1 flywheel.
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Old 07-21-2009, 09:15:10 PM   #20
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So I wont be able to do much today, but did get some pic's.
the hole for the tunnel will be right at the edge of the floor brace.
Maybe need to cut just a 1/4 of it to clear. Made me feel good to see
thaT CAUSE I seen some folks cut into the brace, like half of it.









I have not cleared the heavy grease away, but it looks like I wont even have to cut
into the brace.

Last edited by QUAKE_WARS : 07-21-2009 at 09:18:01 PM.
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Old 07-21-2009, 10:29:36 PM   #21
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Aaah, OK. My T56 looks to be sitting a little further back than yours (but I moved my motor back as well). I did end up cutting in to the brace. No big deal, I'll be welding it back up anyway (and probably cutting out a good chunk of the tunnel and welding new metal in there - to fit the GTO console). The GTO transmission is slightly longer (by about 1cm) than the F-body transmission, and I'm using an F-body transmission case right now for mockup.
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Old 07-21-2009, 10:50:36 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dangerous Drew
Aaah, OK. My T56 looks to be sitting a little further back than yours (but I moved my motor back as well). I did end up cutting in to the brace. No big deal, I'll be welding it back up anyway (and probably cutting out a good chunk of the tunnel and welding new metal in there - to fit the GTO console). The GTO transmission is slightly longer (by about 1cm) than the F-body transmission, and I'm using an F-body transmission case right now for mockup.

I should be able to start cutting tomorrow.

WOW man, you been on here 10 years with 293 post... thats a long time.
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Old 07-21-2009, 10:57:11 PM   #23
Todd80Z28
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That's weird. I'm running my stock 350 bottom end, factory position motor mounts, and my LT1 T56 came back far enough that I did have to cut the brace slightly. Are your motor mounts set forward??
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Old 07-21-2009, 11:04:27 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd80Z28
That's weird. I'm running my stock 350 bottom end, factory position motor mounts, and my LT1 T56 came back far enough that I did have to cut the brace slightly. Are your motor mounts set forward??
I was thinking that too. I now mine is waaaay farther back because I used a different setup, but I thought you & Woody had to cut, just less.
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Old 07-21-2009, 11:10:25 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QUAKE_WARS
I should be able to start cutting tomorrow.

WOW man, you been on here 10 years with 293 post... thats a long time.

Yeah, I pop in and out. Take a few years off here and there, as my Camaro focus changes (I got swallowed up in my 94Z for a while, and then built my 98Z, now I'm back to working on my 79Z). I worked with MadMike when I lived in Georgia, knew about the board within a day or so of it going live. My screen name was actually a joke, as my son Drew was 3 months old at the time. Now he's much much more dangerous. lol.
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Last edited by Dangerous Drew : 07-21-2009 at 11:14:43 PM.
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Old 07-21-2009, 11:16:32 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd80Z28
That's weird. I'm running my stock 350 bottom end, factory position motor mounts, and my LT1 T56 came back far enough that I did have to cut the brace slightly. Are your motor mounts set forward??

My motor is in the stock position with poly motor mounts. I think if
it was ever moved, the trans crossmember would have to have new
holes drilled in the frame. So with the crossmember in the factory
location, I dont think the motor was moved forward.




Last edited by QUAKE_WARS : 07-21-2009 at 11:33:24 PM.
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Old 07-21-2009, 11:34:01 PM   #27
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Here you can see my motor mount location - I'm using poly mounts in stock clamshells, an adapter plate, and the stock block mounts. You can see how the mounts moved back 2" or so. I have to put it there to clear the F-body oil pan and to put that turbo in the right spot.



Here's where my shifter ended up (inside):
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Old 07-22-2009, 12:25:50 AM   #28
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I think that your shifter hole may be just a bit further forward than what I came up with. I have a 2pc rear main 1970 block and a stock T56 and clutch with an adapter flywheel. I was releived when I did not have to cut the brace in my car 2. I think that the position is largely a function of using the stock LT1 sourced bell and clutch set up. . .it is not nearly as long as other options. For example it is nearly 2 inches shorter than an old school bell even BEFORE there is any adapter plate involved. My as of yet unseen pictures (from a threatened write up that is long overdue follow). Be thankful that you did not have to modifiy the tunnel much at all and missed the cross member. I know that I was!

Here, you can compare! Good luck and keep us posted. If you get a new slave cylinder and it has a saftey strap on it. . .DO NOT CUT IT. Maybe you knew this but I learned the hard way. Additionally, I have instruction from LUK on how to bleed the LT1 Pull style clutch set up iffin anybody needs them. It is simple and does NOT have any type of bleeder screw whatsoever!




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Last edited by earlysecond : 07-22-2009 at 12:32:20 AM.
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Old 07-22-2009, 01:17:23 AM   #29
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You can use the stock starter for the small diameter flexplate (straight across bolt holes) with the LT1 T56 but you have to clearance the bellhousing a bit.
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Old 07-23-2009, 09:46:19 PM   #30
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Well the ATS bracket came in. If it works correctly i would say its worth
its price in every way. this is a very well made piece.





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