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Old 05-28-2009, 02:34:36 PM   #1
muscl car
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lakewood ladder bars ...

i'm looking at getting the lakewood ladder bars for my camaro and these are a bolt on application .......... how hard and what's involved in mounting these ladder bars up

http://www.jegs.com/i/Lakewood/620/20462/10002/-1

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1972 chevy camaro ss

1970 LT1 350sbc / 425hp 11.1:1 comp, GM #140 off-road solid lifter cam ,holley strip dominator
2" open spacer and holley 750dp ...........all old school 70's performance parts

old school pic

my old school camaro idle video
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Old 05-28-2009, 03:29:52 PM   #2
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http://static.summitracing.com/globa.../lak-20462.pdf
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Old 05-28-2009, 03:33:48 PM   #3
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I "had" a set on my 72 that were put on buy the previous owner. They bolt to the front spring eye bracket, under the back seat through the floor pan and under two of the bolts on the spring support plate. You would think with that many connections they would work to stop axel hop but they did not. Also found the ears that are next to the U bolts that fasten them to the axel housing were effectively cutting into the axel tube. If you welded everything you may be OK. Needless to say I went back to a set of slapper bars.
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Old 05-28-2009, 04:32:42 PM   #4
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Thanks for that head-up!!!!!
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Old 05-28-2009, 04:39:59 PM   #5
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I had a set too back in the 80's.
They looked really spectacular, but were about as beneficial as air shocks.
And we know how useless air shocks are.

My understanding of ladder bars is they're effective on a coil sprung car or when the rear end is floated. On a locked housing with leaf springs, they'll fight the suspension.

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Old 05-28-2009, 05:16:35 PM   #6
Twisted_Metal
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I've looked at those before and never understood how they would work better than slappers.

Sounds like they don't work better.
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Old 05-28-2009, 09:02:40 PM   #7
MadMike
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slappers hit the front of the spring, supposedly driving the rear end down.
Ladder bars lock the rear axle and the front of the spring mounting point together. If the spring tries to flex, the ladder bar will fight it.

I put slide-a-links on 2 of my cars... the 80z (which probably doesn't need them) and the 73Z, which probably does (4 speed).
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Old 05-29-2009, 01:38:23 AM   #8
CamaroMan79
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I ran them for years with no problems. Didn't have any wheel hop problems either.
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Old 05-29-2009, 06:57:07 AM   #9
muscl car
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMike
I had a set too back in the 80's.
They looked really spectacular, but were about as beneficial as air shocks.
And we know how useless air shocks are.

My understanding of ladder bars is they're effective on a coil sprung car or when the rear end is floated. On a locked housing with leaf springs, they'll fight the suspension.



mike what about using housing floaters ........will that help keep them from binding up the rear suspension ?? .right now i'm running landrum mono leafs with aluminum spring eye bushings and has a firm ride right now but tolerable .i'm just trying to build a period correct 70's camaro and ladder bars were popular back then

looking at your pic of your 80Z those ladder bars look like they're really close to the pavement ...... i don't remember them being that low
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baldwin motion phase III Z/30 clone


1972 chevy camaro ss

1970 LT1 350sbc / 425hp 11.1:1 comp, GM #140 off-road solid lifter cam ,holley strip dominator
2" open spacer and holley 750dp ...........all old school 70's performance parts

old school pic

my old school camaro idle video
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Old 05-29-2009, 05:38:20 PM   #10
MadMike
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I think the floaters is the key. That'll allow the rear axle and the spring to float independant of each other, yet the ladderbar will hold the axle solidly square and everything'll work properly.

I don't recall how low the bars were, on level with my mufflers up front.

I never had wheelhop problems either because I have an automatic. So if I floored it I would simply incinerate both tires - but they wouldn't bounce.

On the other hand, my friend got lit up one night and I wound up driving him home. He had a 4 speed firebird. I dropped the hammer on that thing and the rear axle was bouncing up & down sideways and I about knocked the windshield out of the car. I can recall the glove box door flopping open and all sorts of junk falling out (the car had air shocks). Ladder bars or slapper bars might have mitigated that but not eliminated it (due to the shocks).
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Old 05-29-2009, 05:56:52 PM   #11
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Dont waste your money.
Are you going for a certain look, that could be a different story.
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Old 05-29-2009, 06:40:12 PM   #12
1980z28fromhell
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i was considering a set for my 75 for a period correct look but im thinking of getting the good lakewood slapper bars with the j bolts and chroming them ... many cars had this in the 80's ..im trying to get mine period correct but the elec water pump/ fan / alum rad kind of blow that though
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Old 05-29-2009, 06:50:47 PM   #13
muscl car
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jester1
Dont waste your money.
Are you going for a certain look, that could be a different story.


period correct look only
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baldwin motion phase III Z/30 clone


1972 chevy camaro ss

1970 LT1 350sbc / 425hp 11.1:1 comp, GM #140 off-road solid lifter cam ,holley strip dominator
2" open spacer and holley 750dp ...........all old school 70's performance parts

old school pic

my old school camaro idle video
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Old 05-29-2009, 07:20:00 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muscl car
period correct look only

Can't get any more period correct than good ole Lakewood or CE regular traction bars. And, they function well!
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Old 05-29-2009, 09:16:19 PM   #15
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So did you concider t bars instead, the bright side would be they work a hell of alot better.
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