How tough is it to do door skins

earlysecond · 04-24-2009, 11:44:39 PM

My regular parts dealer has a really old pair of skins. Mostly dentless except for one, sadly it is right on the body line but is an easy repair while it is off the car. I could get the pair for $80. I am thinking of totally redoing my car and the doors are not straight. I was never happy with them but sprayed anyways.
So I guess the questions are:
1.) How difficult is the process, I can weld and have an awesome set of tools LOL
2.) Any idea if this is a really good deal? I have not shopeed for these at all yet. BTW these skins are so old (under a pile of dust) that they are thicker than the common, modern skins. . .they are good quality.

Thanks for the advice in advance,

Brent

1981gMachine · 04-25-2009, 12:30:33 AM

Takes a lil time but not a difficult job. I did a quick search to try to find a well written how to.

Basically take your door off your car, Gut the door so you have just the shell left. Take a grinder and go along the edge of the door. While doing so, you'll notice the metal will separate when you grind it down so far. You want the whole outer edge to be like this. I like you use a putty knife after that step, to go along the edge and split the outer skin away from the shell. using a hammer to persuade it apart. I haven't done a camaro skin, but I know newer cars sometimes have spot welds that will need drilled out to fully remove the skin.

I use 3M8115 panel bonder to put the new skin on. The 2 part epoxy needs bare metal. So grind with 36grit the door shell edge to bare metal. Do the same on the inside on the door skin (the part that will be against the door shell flange). I then put a bead across the flange and inside of the door skin. Using an acid brush, I make sure all bare metal has this 2part epoxy on it. Do that so you wont have any rust issues in the future.

Once both parts are glued, you can sit the skin on the shell.

* forgot to mention you want to trial fit the skin to see if the door shell flange needs any fine tuning for a nice fitment.

Once you have the skin on the shell, use a bunch of vice grips (more the marrier) and clamp the skin to the flange. I like to break up pieces of paint sticks to put between the skin and vice grip to minimize marring.

** Note all the above steps work best with the outer door facing up on the stand

Once the vice grips are in place, you can flip the door over so the inside shell is facing up. You then want to use a hammer and dolly to bend the lip over. The key, to minimal bodywork, is keeping the dolly tight against the panel and slowly taping the lip down. Working like 4-6in at a time and going from 90deg, to 60deg, then 45deg, then 15deg, then flat with the inner shell.

Do that process in between your vice grips. Then you can start removing your vice grips and flattening the rest. Once done, you can let the door sit for 24hrs for the 2part to fully cure. Then if there were any spot welds, you can complete those

http://www.search-autoparts.com/sear...e/detail/66735

http://www.popularmechanics.com/auto...o/4212304.html

Between what I wrote and linked you to should give you stuff to read and get some concept of what will be going on. I tried to write it clearly, it's off the top of my head. So I may ahve missed a few smaller details. But anywho, should get you started

earlysecond · 04-25-2009, 01:00:32 AM

Thanks for taking the time to write all of that up. One thing that I did notice on these old skins is that the top lip seemed to be folded pretty tight. Do these ship like this and should I be worried? I will have to open them up to fit the shell.

Since I will no longer use 2 part dual syringe gun applied adhesive that I have for any serious panel work. . .I may be able to burn the rest of what I paid for up on this.

Thanks Again,
Brent

1981gMachine · 04-25-2009, 01:11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by earlysecond

Thanks for taking the time to write all of that up. One thing that I did notice on these old skins is that the top lip seemed to be folded pretty tight. Do these ship like this and should I be worried? I will have to open them up to fit the shell.

Since I will no longer use 2 part dual syringe gun applied adhesive that I have for any serious panel work. . .I may be able to burn the rest of what I paid for up on this.

Thanks Again,
Brent

My experience with door skins, all of the parts that get folded around (like the 3 sides of the door) are at a 90deg angle. Maybe someone who has done a camaro skin can give you a more specific answer for this case.

Don't like 2 part? I love the stuff, works great, saves time, and no panel warpage.

earlysecond · 04-25-2009, 09:36:23 AM

G- 3 sides are at 90 degrees. The top is folded on itself really tightly, I thought that the skins slipped over the top as well but could be wrong.

The price he offered is about half of what the bigger resto houses get for skins so I should have picked these up yesterday.

I know that in that past I have seen an air tool to put skins, at least, BACK ON but I can't remember the name. Soebody told me that they are pretty slick but again I am not sure what it is called.

Thanks for the input.
Brent

1981gMachine · 04-25-2009, 11:36:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by earlysecond

G- 3 sides are at 90 degrees. The top is folded on itself really tightly, I thought that the skins slipped over the top as well but could be wrong.

The price he offered is about half of what the bigger resto houses get for skins so I should have picked these up yesterday.

I know that in that past I have seen an air tool to put skins, at least, BACK ON but I can't remember the name. Soebody told me that they are pretty slick but again I am not sure what it is called.

Thanks for the input.
Brent

There is a nice tool, i've only seen it come with the air hammer so it adds to the price.

https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/p-11575-14275.aspx

Takes about 10min max to put a skin on. Hammer and dolly can take from 30-60min depending on arm stamina.