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04-01-2009, 05:52:53 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 30
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Best Factory 350 Heads Ranked?
I have a 1994 5.7 TBI block that I want to build into a mild street engine, to go in a 1960 2dr Belair. I will be using a 700R4 trans & about 3.78 rear gears. My question is: In order of best-to-worst, what used factory heads should I use for this engine, starting with vortecs, down to something I can afford? I will be using an aftermarket intake/carb, mild cam & HEI ignition. If possible, please rank your recommendation by Chevy casting #'s. Thanks for helping a novice!
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04-01-2009, 05:55:41 PM
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#2
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Lifetime Gold Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Mount Holly, NJ United States
Posts: 1,436
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My only suggestion would be Vortecs. You can find them used for about $200. There aren't any other factory heads that will provide any siginificant improvements, IMO.
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'81 Sport Coupe 229 V6 - Junked
'93 Z28 5.7L LT1 - Parted
"Is that a rat? No, it's just a really fat mouse."
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04-01-2009, 05:56:17 PM
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#3
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Gold Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Southern Maryland
Posts: 8,189
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I don't know about ranking them, but if you are looking for Gen I heads, you definitely do not want to use the 193 truck swirl heads. The 083 TPI L98 heads from F bodies are cheap and plentiful and are about as good as factory gen I heads get, 64cc chambers, 1.94/1.5 valves, slightly under 200 cfms intake @ 0.500 lift. Should be able to find them for $100/pair no problem. Plus they are modern heads so you don't have to mess around w/ adding on hardened seats to camel hump heads or anything like that.
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Steven H. www.carfap.net
1985 BMW 745i Turbo, Euro model import, 18" Antera wheels
1986.5 Porsche 928S, 5.0 32v V8, 18" 993 turbo wheels
1999 Chevy C1500, new 5.7 Vortec, 4" lift spindles, EFILive V2 tuner
2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.10s, Heinous billet rear control arms, SCT Advantage III tuner
2004 Taurus SEL, Ingalls tubular control arms
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04-01-2009, 05:57:55 PM
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#4
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Fredericksburg,Va
Posts: 1,451
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For that build using only a factory head, it would without a doubt be Vortec heads.
Some of the worse are the TBI heads you have right now lol.
The Vortec #'s I cant remember, one of them is 0XX and the other is 9-0-6 I think...I know its 9-0-something.
www.mortec.com is a good place to look at different head casting #'s and a description of them.
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04-01-2009, 05:59:15 PM
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#5
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Lifetime Gold Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Mount Holly, NJ United States
Posts: 1,436
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^^ 062? Check out the Vortec sticky for all the info you could ever want.
__________________
'81 Sport Coupe 229 V6 - Junked
'93 Z28 5.7L LT1 - Parted
"Is that a rat? No, it's just a really fat mouse."
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04-01-2009, 06:01:13 PM
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#6
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Fredericksburg,Va
Posts: 1,451
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062, yes thats it thanks for clearing it up for him...and me
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04-01-2009, 07:13:15 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 30
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Thanks guys for the info.. I hear the vortecs tend to crack, is this rumor or fact? If they crack easily, I would not be comfortable putting on a "good" pair and worrying about "when they are going to crack". Comments?
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04-01-2009, 09:39:10 PM
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#8
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BANNED
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Columbia, MO, USA
Posts: 10,498
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Please look into the aftermarket RHS Vortec heads here!
pdq67
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04-01-2009, 09:47:41 PM
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#9
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Lifetime Gold Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Mount Holly, NJ United States
Posts: 1,436
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by joze56
Thanks guys for the info.. I hear the vortecs tend to crack, is this rumor or fact? If they crack easily, I would not be comfortable putting on a "good" pair and worrying about "when they are going to crack". Comments?
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FWIW, I've had many pairs of Vortec heads on several different engines having undergone different levels of machining and never had any cracking, but I know some have had that experience, especially while tapping rocker stud bosses and other mods. They shouldn't crack with regular use.
__________________
'81 Sport Coupe 229 V6 - Junked
'93 Z28 5.7L LT1 - Parted
"Is that a rat? No, it's just a really fat mouse."
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04-01-2009, 11:25:38 PM
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#10
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BANNED
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Columbia, MO, USA
Posts: 10,498
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Please read me again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good value is what I'm talking about long term here and I can squeeze a Buffalo nickel until it bellow's is all!
pdq67
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04-02-2009, 02:29:19 AM
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#11
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Veteran Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 9,076
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by joze56
Thanks guys for the info.. I hear the vortecs tend to crack, is this rumor or fact? If they crack easily, I would not be comfortable putting on a "good" pair and worrying about "when they are going to crack". Comments?
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It is quite common to see them crack, but these are all stock applications. We have lots of hills in our neck of the woods, big temp swings, etc which can lead to cracking. In a properly tuned application in a car I would be very suprized to see one crack.
The RHS version looks very similar, and come with hardened seats and screw in studs. If you buy the large valve version, they are supposed to have both intake bolt patterns, something to think about if you're looking at vortecs. They aren't all that cheap mind you, lots of options out there in that price range.
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04-02-2009, 02:58:28 AM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 30
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I appreciate the summary comments on the vortec "cracking" problem. My question now is: What is the next best factory head (non-vortec)? Thanks again for comments!
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04-02-2009, 08:04:04 AM
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#13
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Lubbock, Texas USA
Posts: 1,249
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I've torn down a ton of engines and the only vortec heads I've seen cracked came off of engines that had been significantly overheated.
If you can find a decent price on the RHS vortecs, grab 'em. They're thicker and are already machined for higher lift and screw-in studs. They are the best value, IMHO. My son has a set on a 383 in a Tahoe with an LT-4 cam, it's a runner!
To answer your question, there aren't any other factory heads that are in the same class with Vortecs.
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04-02-2009, 02:47:20 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 30
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It looks like everybody is pointing at the vortecs. That will delay my project a while, until I save some more $'s. With stock vortecs, will I be able to run a good street cam without modifying to screw-in studs & milled guide bosses? I am only looking for 300-325 HP.
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04-02-2009, 03:51:50 PM
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#15
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Lifetime Gold Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: walton, ny usa
Posts: 4,849
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I have press-in stud 062 Vortecs with a .480 lift cam and ~400hp. I beat the piss out of it all the time and never have issues.
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