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03-11-2009, 01:08:55 PM
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#31
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Lifetime Gold Member
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 11,340
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JoeGibbs http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/Dow...cingoil101.pdf
VR1 "Street Legal" 20w-50: 1300 PPM/1200 PPM of Zinc/Phosphorus
VR1 "Not street legal" 20w-50: 1200PPM/1200PPM Zinc/Phosphorus.
Joe Gibbs Break-in Oil: ~2800 PPM Zinc
Joe Gibbs XP1: 5846 PPM Zinc & Phosphorus
Pennzoil "Racing Oil" 25w-50: 1960 PPM / 1800 PPM Zinc/Phosphorus
Other tests see http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128203
Last edited by COPO : 03-11-2009 at 01:30:18 PM.
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03-11-2009, 06:09:35 PM
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#32
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Veteran Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Concord, CA, United States
Posts: 1,818
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Amsoil Premium Protection, 10w40: 1378 PPM Zinc / 1265 PPM Phosphorus
Amsoil Premium Protection, 20w50: 1379 PPM Zinc / 1266 PPM Phosphorus
Amsoil Dominator Racing Oil, 5w20, 10w30 & 15w5: 1575 PPM Zinc / 1424 PPM Phosphorus
A bottle of Lucas Oil Engine Break in additive added to 4.5 qts of motor oil will achieve approximately 5000 PPM of Zinc.
I'm running the Lucas Oil additive with Valvoline Synpower 10w30 for break in, then straight Amsoil 10w40 Permium Protection after that. If I do have a problem, it won't be the oil I'm using  I'm heading down to pick up a few pails of oil to flush the engine. Wish me luck!!!
BTW, Amsoil's only $6.75/Qt, how much is the Joe gibbs stuff?
__________________
"Don't get on it if you can't stay in it!" "How do you call yourself a man when you're ride'n a pony?" "If it's not functional forget about it!"
Last edited by Penix : 03-11-2009 at 06:17:14 PM.
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03-11-2009, 11:44:12 PM
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#34
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Lifetime Gold Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 2,396
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Penix
I'm running the Lucas Oil additive with Valvoline Synpower 10w30 for break in, then straight Amsoil 10w40 Permium Protection after that. If I do have a problem, it won't be the oil I'm using
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OK. You need to read a little
You are wrong. You use Synthetic Oil for a cam break in and you will be on your way to another wiped cam. Every cam mfg. warns against syn oil at break in, and they do for a reason.
Page 3. Lunati.
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...al/INST150.pdf
Oh and your Comp instructions. I think Comps stuff sucks a** but that's just me. Page 2 there..
http://www.comp.com/Technical/Instru.../Files/145.pdf
Last edited by kenny77 : 03-12-2009 at 12:25:54 AM.
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03-12-2009, 12:59:00 AM
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#35
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Veteran Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Concord, CA, United States
Posts: 1,818
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by kenny77
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I've used synthetics many times on break in with absolutely no problems. But now that I've found a store that sells 30 wt VR1 I'll be using that instead, along with the Lucas Oil break in additive... More than enough protection.
__________________
"Don't get on it if you can't stay in it!" "How do you call yourself a man when you're ride'n a pony?" "If it's not functional forget about it!"
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03-12-2009, 05:41:07 AM
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#36
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Cynthiana, Kentucky
Posts: 659
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I've heard you can put a magnet on your oil filter. That way it should catch any metal that goes thru it.
__________________
My 57 chevy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hkqsEzoJQM
79 camaro, 350, flat tops, 305 heads with 1.94 valves. crane energizer 282 cam, stealth intake, edelbrock 600cfm. 2200 stall, 3.73 gears. ran a 14.64@95 mph with 2.73's. should run 14 flat or high 13 now.
04 Grand Prix GT
05 Dodge Magnum R/T
57 chevy 210 2dr. 406 4-speed
57 chevy 210 4dr. 235 powerglide
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03-12-2009, 04:32:19 PM
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#37
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Syracuse, UT
Posts: 54
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Penix
I've used synthetics many times on break in with absolutely no problems. But now that I've found a store that sells 30 wt VR1 I'll be using that instead, along with the Lucas Oil break in additive... More than enough protection.
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I would think that the manufacturer would have a reason for saying to not use Synthetics for the first 5000 miles. I don't know what those reasons would be but if it was me I would not run the synthetic oil. |
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03-12-2009, 05:46:11 PM
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#38
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Veteran Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Concord, CA, United States
Posts: 1,818
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by jdawg
I would think that the manufacturer would have a reason for saying to not use Synthetics for the first 5000 miles. I don't know what those reasons would be but if it was me I would not run the synthetic oil.
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I honestly don't know what the reason is either. You'll notice they don't say "DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC" but they do say "ALWAYS USE NEW LIFTERS WITH NEW CAMS", and I believe that's because it's not nearly as big of an issue. Like I said, I've used synthetics for cam break in MANY times and without issue.
I found a store that carries Valvoline VR1 SAE 30, so I was going to use that, BUT my friend told me this morning that he can get me as much standard 30 wt as I need for free so I'm just going to use that, along with the break in additive that is... I like $FREE.99
__________________
"Don't get on it if you can't stay in it!" "How do you call yourself a man when you're ride'n a pony?" "If it's not functional forget about it!"
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03-12-2009, 07:49:49 PM
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#39
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BANNED
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: on the road
Posts: 316
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hey punk
Last edited by Greezer : 06-30-2009 at 10:29:22 AM.
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03-12-2009, 09:53:42 PM
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#40
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Veteran Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Concord, CA, United States
Posts: 1,818
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Greezer
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"DO NOT use synthetic or synthetic blend oils prior to the first 5000 miles of engine operation." Means just that, first 5000 of ENGINE operation, not cam shaft operation. This is because the rings will have serious trouble seating with synthetic oils. As for cam break in, it's still only "recommended", i.e. not as critical True, the lifters need to "seat" as well, but it's far easier for the lifters to "seat" than it is the rings due to the surface structures and angles involved.
I'm not saying using synthetic is a great idea, I'm just saying it's not as critical as everyone makes it out to be. I used SAE 30 when I installed the last lifters and ran the engine for 25 minutes at engine speeds ranging from 2000-3000 RPM. I believe my mistake was not using moly lube, and the fact that I already suspected the cam of going out.
Once again, mute point, I'll be using standard 30 wt oil for break in anyhow 
__________________
"Don't get on it if you can't stay in it!" "How do you call yourself a man when you're ride'n a pony?" "If it's not functional forget about it!"
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03-12-2009, 11:51:04 PM
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#41
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Lifetime Gold Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 2,396
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Because new lifters have to rotate in order to live during cam break in. Sorry I didn't explain that...but that's part of engine building 101.
Cam and lifters have to have some friction during break in so the lifters will rotate...thus creating a pattern on the crowned face that keeps the lifter turning for the life of the engine. That's part of the reason for the whole procedure ...to keep splash oil on the cam and the lifters rotating/spinning
Synthetic oil at CAM break in is just too damn slick to let any friction happen between the lifter and the cam. Thus the lifter does not rotate properly like it should No rotating lifters = wasted cam.
The same way synthetic oil inhibits piston rings from seating....no wear-in pattern happens and you won't seat the rings.
After that you can pour any kind of crap in there, and the lifters are not bothered they will continue to rotate/spin just like they should.
But I'm with Greezer on this post, and I think we say>> Why not give us a break and do it your way though...just don't come back and post 6 more times asking " What went wrong?"
Oh and BTW here at Nasty>>>>>>the smileys are ghey.
Last edited by kenny77 : 03-13-2009 at 12:35:08 AM.
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03-13-2009, 12:41:32 AM
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#42
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BANNED
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: on the road
Posts: 316
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hey punk
Last edited by Greezer : 06-30-2009 at 10:28:57 AM.
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03-13-2009, 01:50:15 AM
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#43
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Veteran Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Concord, CA, United States
Posts: 1,818
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I'm done arguing. I know what I've done in the past, and like I stated, I'll be using conventional 30 wt oil for this break in anyhow so there's no need to keep going over this.
I didn't ask "what went wrong" I asked "need to clean out the metal, what should I do?", so get it straight. And I have actually spoken to someone about this a few years back who worked for Crower, and he stated pretty much the same thing I said. I'm done talking about break in oil theory. I asked about flushing out the metal, got my answers, now I'm done.
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Joe Prather
I've heard you can put a magnet on your oil filter. That way it should catch any metal that goes thru it.
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I totally forgot about those things. Never used one before but not a bad idea. They're cheap too if I remember correctly. Thanks.
__________________
"Don't get on it if you can't stay in it!" "How do you call yourself a man when you're ride'n a pony?" "If it's not functional forget about it!"
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03-13-2009, 02:06:43 AM
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#44
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L. G. M. / Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: BC, Canada
Posts: 11,909
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Why would you put a magnet on the filter? Shouldn't the filter itself catch the metal?
__________________
Just use a bottle of "New car smell".
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03-13-2009, 02:29:06 AM
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#45
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Veteran Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Concord, CA, United States
Posts: 1,818
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by ZS10
Why would you put a magnet on the filter? Shouldn't the filter itself catch the metal?
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You're absolutely right, but from what I've read it really does help the filter grab more of the metal that it normally would. I don't know this for sure but it makes sense and it's cheap enough that even if it doesn't work you're not out much. Tell ya what! I'll see about getting one, and if I can I'll use it and see if it helps any. If it does help then we should see metal attached to the outer shell of the filter when I cut it.
__________________
"Don't get on it if you can't stay in it!" "How do you call yourself a man when you're ride'n a pony?" "If it's not functional forget about it!"
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