Carbon fiber inner fender wells more clearance!

[GetMore]

I'm starting to assemble the front end on my car, so I could easily modify my fenders at the same time. It'd also get me off the fence on whether to buy a new Z fender or cut the holes for the vents.
Still taking deposits for the first run?

[ks71z28]

Originally Posted by GetMore

I'm starting to assemble the front end on my car, so I could easily modify my fenders at the same time. It'd also get me off the fence on whether to buy a new Z fender or cut the holes for the vents.
Still taking deposits for the first run?

You bet, tht would make the magic 5! As for the vent holes, cut them, as long as you can locate them correctly. While you are at it cut the cvents so they are actually functional, or better yet use the trans am vents

Keith

[GetMore]

I'm not sure what you mean by making the vents functional (though I do like the looks of the TA vents). The vents I have are open at each louver. I mean, you can look right through them. I think one or two of those louvers does open to right at the firewall though.

What is the projected lead time on these?

[ks71z28]

Originally Posted by GetMore

I'm not sure what you mean by making the vents functional (though I do like the looks of the TA vents). The vents I have are open at each louver. I mean, you can look right through them. I think one or two of those louvers does open to right at the firewall though.

What is the projected lead time on these?

I thought the z28 vents were not functional, my bad. the lead time starts when i actually begin. I am finishing up a customer car, which is what pays the bills, then I will strip and clean the fenderwells and begin. I am thinking by June or July. Maybe sooner if I really get rolling.

thanks

[1FstChevy]

Originally Posted by ks71z28

the fender goes above the inner fender and what material that would be removed would not bee seen, all you would be doing is moving the 90* radius circled in the photo out toward the wheel, the the fender would ned to be clearance so they would bolt up together, comprende???? Clear as mud! I will have better photos when I actually start this next week, hopefully

Keith

Um... clear as mud indeed LOL. That sounds fine by me, I just wanted to make sure you weren't talking about where the inboard side of the fender meets the wheel wells, because I know if I had to cut a curve out of the fender myself it would end up with the fit quality of a Yugo. Or just look like I attacked it with a sawzall.

One more thing to clarify, the exterior dimensions of the wheel wells are going to increase height wise obviously to add the additional clearance and fill in a lot of the OEM stamping; but they aren't going to move inboard towards the engine/frame at all correct? I ask simply because I modified the factory steel "L" bracket that the distribution block is originally installed on for my rear proportioning valve and its sandwhiched snugly between the steering shaft and the back of the DS fender well with no where to relocate it.

[ks71z28]

Originally Posted by 1FstChevy

Um... clear as mud indeed LOL. That sounds fine by me, I just wanted to make sure you weren't talking about where the inboard side of the fender meets the wheel wells, because I know if I had to cut a curve out of the fender myself it would end up with the fit quality of a Yugo. Or just look like I attacked it with a sawzall.

One more thing to clarify, the exterior dimensions of the wheel wells are going to increase height wise obviously to add the additional clearance and fill in a lot of the OEM stamping; but they aren't going to move inboard towards the engine/frame at all correct? I ask simply because I modified the factory steel "L" bracket that the distribution block is originally installed on for my rear proportioning valve and its sandwhiched snugly between the steering shaft and the back of the DS fender well with no where to relocate it.

Actually the wheel opening size or sape will not change at all. What you will need to trim is the part that folds back 90* to the fender, And not a lot, these won't solve world piece either, Oh yea no worries on the bracket you discussed, and no these won't fit a Yugo

[nowpizza]

Originally Posted by ks71z28

Actually the wheel opening size or sape will not change at all. What you will need to trim is the part that folds back 90* to the fender, And not a lot, these won't solve world piece either, Oh yea no worries on the bracket you discussed, and no these won't fit a Yugo

What 90 degree part on the wheel well do you have to trim? I don't understad.

[ks71z28]

Originally Posted by nowpizza

What 90 degree part on the wheel well do you have to trim? I don't understad.

the part that is parallel to the top of the tire, the 90 degree bend, it needs to be trimmed 1/4" or so, that is how you get the tire clearance. i will post pictures next week

[ks71z28]

here is the progress. I have stripped and cleaned, I have welded up all non essential holes, and removed the raised boses on the battery tray area, which will be smoothed out, also the drived side front will be smooth and flat where the charcoal canister mounts. The blue tape is the area where I will add material to to bring the inner fender lip out about 3/8", which is why you will need to trim about a 1/4" from your fender where it returns and mounts to the inner fender, (only at the top of the opening) Any questions please ask. www.customworksproducts.com

thanks

[1FstChevy]

Hmm... what if my battery isn't moving? Will these fenders be able to support my 39lb Optima Red Top?

If so does that mean I'll have to drill holes for the bottom 2 battery tray bolts???

[ks71z28]

Originally Posted by 1FstChevy

Hmm... what if my battery isn't moving? Will these fenders be able to support my 39lb Optima Red Top?

If so does that mean I'll have to drill holes for the bottom 2 battery tray bolts???

To answer your first question, yes, but you will need to likely brace the bottom where the battery goes and tie it to the subframe, we are talking some 1 1/2"x 1/8" material likely.

2nd question, answer is yes. Why not put the optima in the trunk. Sealed cells are great, no rust, so the trunk is a great spot. Hell most guys drive around with either a bunge or nothing holding the battery in, So if your forking out the $$$$ for trick carbon fiber parts I am assuming you can handle making you battery installation look and function adequately.

thanks

keith

[earlysecond]

Keith,

Wanted to take a minute to give you some props! Your website is excellent and your concept. . .even better.

I am not much of a CF guy as my car is essentially stock. We may do business on some suspension parts though. I wish you had that front end kit when I was redoing my suspension!! I have a LOT more money in inferior parts.

Keep up the good work and keep the customers happy, that is the bottom line.

Brent

[ks71z28]

thanks Brent,

We are working very hard to improve the 2nd gen f-bodies by providing affordable parts that have marked improvements over stock pieces. There are some suspension arms and front chassis stiffeners being developed as we speak, so check our site for updates and new releases.

thanks

Keith

[Toadman2230]

Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but has there been any progress on these? Anyone have pics?? I have the front sheet metal off of my car and now would be a great time to consider these.

[Toadman2230]

Anyone... ???