NastyZ28 Forum



Go Back   NastyZ28.com > Body & Chassis Restoration > Suspension, Steering, Brake & Wheel Topics
User Name
Password

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-22-2003, 09:24:00 PM   #1
MulletMan80
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Northwest
Posts: 587
Some 2nd gen brake questions..

I noticed when I was driving today my front left wheel started squeeling like a granny car. I get to parents home pull the wheel off and notice the lil tag on the pads appeared to be close or maybe touching so I bend it so I could drive to my place. I get in drive and its still squeeling. It does stop when I apply the brakes it didnt make noise when I was in reverse only when moving forward. Could it be the brakes are shot? I noticed that the rotor is still smooth..no signs of metal rubbing. Also how do the rotors come off? Do I need a puller or can I use a rubber mallet after the caliper is removed?
__________________
Hello Rock N Roll.. Goodbye Minimum Wage!
MulletMan80 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2003, 01:43:00 AM   #2
aero80
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,190
sure sounds like the little tag, which is a wear indicator, whose job is to squeel when it's time to check the brakes. Are you sure you bent it back enough?

Changing the pads is easy. You can do a search in the brake topic on this site and find a ton of advice.

The rotors come off all as a single unit with the hub snd lug nuts. Behind the center cap, which you carefully pry off, is the main wheel nut. Better be learning about that, if you replace it wrong you can wipe out your bearings, or much worse. It is a critical fastener and adjuster. You don't just tighten it up.
Do a search on this subject, easy to do here on the site.
All-in-all, the whole deal is a piece of cake to do, but you have to have studied it a little first if it's your first time.

------------------
Aero80
__________________
Aero80

Two Lane Blacktop style street and strip car:
Blueprinted 454, sequential port injection, forged everything, roller, Digi-6, SFI'd McLeod,TKO-600, cryo'd 1350s, Dana 60 w/ Detroit Truetrac, 12" 4WDB, adjustable coil-overs w/ Global West front, full adjustable rear, NHRA cage, Street Lights, 12:1 steerbox, baseball bats front and rear, solid body mounts, fiberglass hood and tailgate.
aero80 is offline   Reply With Quote
Messages from Our Sponsors !
Awesome NastyZ28.com Merchandise !!

T-shirts, wearing apparel

Drinkware, Mouse Pads, Decals

Old 10-23-2003, 10:36:00 AM   #3
tom3
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: ohio
Posts: 9,567
Don't want to sound like a wiseass, but brakes are important. If you get them wrong, you got big troubles. Find a buddy who's done this before and have him help you do it. Like Aero said, it's pretty easy but you sure have to get it right! (edit) Also note that if you take it to a brake/alignment shop, chances are they will try to sell you everything under the sun to get into your bank account.

[This message has been edited by tom3 (edited October 23, 2003).]
tom3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2003, 04:11:00 PM   #4
77camLT
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Phoenix, Az, USA
Posts: 196
Speaking from a really bad personal experience, don't drive it until you know what's wrong! I had the same problem and it turned out my outer bearings were shot. The inner bearing race got overheated and actually FUSED to my spindle. Needless to say I had to get a whole new spindle. see if your bearings are worn or the cage is broken. If they're fine, then move on to the brakes.
__________________
There's reason to believe that someone can be married to an Irishman and still lead a perfectly normal life.
77camLT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2003, 04:13:00 PM   #5
MulletMan80
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Northwest
Posts: 587
Ive did a ton of brake jobs but all were fwd cars. So its the nut that hold the rotor on then on these cars? thanxs for the help
__________________
Hello Rock N Roll.. Goodbye Minimum Wage!
MulletMan80 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2003, 04:55:00 PM   #6
Nick76
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 1,990
There should be a bearing cap in the middle of the rotor assembly as Aero 80 said, pull that off and you will see a castle nut with a cotter pin. Take that castle nut off and the whole rotor will come off. You shouldn't need to force it, or use a puller.
Nick76 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply




Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump



Copyright © 1997 - 2012 NastyZ28.com Inc.
Powered by vBulletin Version 3.5.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2013, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.