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Old 01-18-2008, 05:57:54 PM   #1
ZZTOP
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front Suspension upgrades

Stupid question here But I was wanting to do a total rebuild on the front end

Who sales the whole 9 yards so to speak in one kit

any input on Quailty and pricing would be great Thanks for any help on this

Dave
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Old 01-18-2008, 07:01:23 PM   #2
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Old 01-19-2008, 12:35:34 PM   #3
marin
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I went with all Federal Mogul/Moog steering linkage. Apparently these are as close as you can get to indestrucible. Moog tie rods, ball joints, idler arm and center link. Everything is manufactured oversize of stock and with higher quality QA.

If you want a front sway bar larger than 1 1/4", go with something else, since the oversize Moog idler arm might be in the way.

You'll probably want a new steering box also and a new PS pump. Lots of choices here.

A lot of my friends were happy with the Hotchkis TVS (Total Vehicle System) setup, which bang for buck looks great, but I myself can't comment on it since I chose an expensive overkill route...

Then for control arm, brake, spindle packages, etc. a lot of people have installed stuff from Savitske Classic & Custom (SC&C) and seem very happy with it. Bang for the buck, it's a good deal IMHO. Top-notch undisputed leader for control arms and bushings is Global West and their awesome stuff, but according to many, it is very expensive.

Pro-Touring F-Body, a site sponsor (I think) also make mostly hardcore racing suspension packages and the pricing looks fair. The owner is a forum member. His stuff looks good and innovative, and I met people who used his G-braces to achieve miraculous improvements in handling under competitive Auto Cross.

Steering box, P/S pump, there's a bunch of choices here. I have used Lee Power Steering, which IMHO is top notch, race-ready, but he is pricey. Another manufacturer with good prices and hard-core quality (as far as what I hear) is PSC Motorsports who are used by a lot of the rock-crawling jeep off-roading kind of crowd. Mounting these can be very very tricky. If you have a long waterpump setup (like most stock second gens), stay with the P-pump designs (Type I), since bracketry can turn into a very expensive LEGO exercise (I learned this on my own example). If you have a short-pump, you can go either, but if you are using hydroboost, coordinate with everyone to have the right pressures (1350 psi or so) and the right gpm (~3 gpm is ideal).

Last edited by marin : 01-19-2008 at 12:52:20 PM.
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Old 01-19-2008, 01:58:11 PM   #4
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not to just blow my own horn but since pro-touringf-body.com was mentioned I'll add that in the past month we have added front end rebuild kit to our line up and I think you will find the prices to be more than fair for a complete kit.
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Old 01-20-2008, 12:43:20 AM   #5
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Thanks For ALL THE HELP and Info I'll check out the links..
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Old 01-20-2008, 11:11:28 AM   #6
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Aman - where's the adjustable swaybar dammit
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Old 01-20-2008, 02:31:37 PM   #7
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LOWEND, well I thought the rear bar would be done first and that did not turn out, in fact the company we hired to do the job is out of state for us and has stopped all contact after payment was made and we have NO bars yet, so I just took it upon myself to make one and we have a new manufacturer to deal with, I may post a pick of the prototype in the next day or so
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