I went with all Federal Mogul/Moog steering linkage. Apparently these are as close as you can get to indestrucible. Moog tie rods, ball joints, idler arm and center link. Everything is manufactured oversize of stock and with higher quality QA.
If you want a front sway bar larger than 1 1/4", go with something else, since the oversize Moog idler arm might be in the way.
You'll probably want a new steering box also and a new PS pump. Lots of choices here.
A lot of my friends were happy with the Hotchkis TVS (Total Vehicle System) setup
, which bang for buck looks great, but I myself can't comment on it since I chose an expensive overkill route...
Then for control arm, brake, spindle packages, etc. a lot of people have installed stuff from Savitske Classic & Custom (SC&C)
and seem very happy with it. Bang for the buck, it's a good deal IMHO. Top-notch undisputed leader for control arms and bushings is Global West and their awesome stuff
, but according to many, it is very expensive.
a site sponsor (I think) also make mostly hardcore racing suspension packages and the pricing looks fair. The owner is a forum member. His stuff looks good and innovative, and I met people who used his G-braces to achieve miraculous improvements in handling under competitive Auto Cross.
Steering box, P/S pump, there's a bunch of choices here. I have used Lee Power Steering
, which IMHO is top notch, race-ready, but he is pricey. Another manufacturer with good prices and hard-core quality (as far as what I hear) is PSC Motorsports
who are used by a lot of the rock-crawling jeep off-roading kind of crowd. Mounting these can be very very tricky. If you have a long waterpump setup (like most stock second gens), stay with the P-pump designs (Type I), since bracketry can turn into a very expensive LEGO exercise (I learned this on my own example). If you have a short-pump, you can go either, but if you are using hydroboost, coordinate with everyone to have the right pressures (1350 psi or so) and the right gpm (~3 gpm is ideal).