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Old 02-08-2016, 02:28:11 PM   #541
flak monkey
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Started rewiring the car this weekend - between rain showers.

Pulled out the old harness and removed the necessary connectors.

I bought an EZ Wiring harness last year, but kept putting off actually making a start on putting it in. I made a stainless adapter plate for the firewall to block up the hole left by the stock connector and passed the engine section of the harness through a grommet in the centre of it. I'll seal it with polyurethane sealant once I am happy that I haven't missed any cables that I might need.

The reason for changing the harness was that I was never really happy using a 37 year old harness in the car, and I'd had to add so much to it in order to run the EFI and transmission controllers that it was completely hacked up anyway.

So a new loom with a lot of extra circuits that I'll never use (like power locks, windows, cruise and A/C) was perfect as that gives me lots of extra fuse power supplies direct from the harness that I can repurpose for the other things I need.

The only downside of modern running gear? Just the wiring for that makes up quite a list!



Had to strip the ignition switch out of the car as I had a dodgy connection inside in the 'run' position. Thankfully being old technology it was full of copper bars and little springs which were all gummed up with old dielectric grease. Cleaned it all out and now it works perfectly again...

I also had to make a few changes to the power feeds to the fuse box, as the only power out which was live in the cranking position was the coil feed - no use at all with injection.... Fixed that, now everything except the lights stays live. Not a problem with new battery technology...

The dash section is more or less finished now, just a few bits to tidy up, and the immobiliser circuits to reconnect and it will be done, then I can move on to the engine bay where I also need to move the fuel feed line to a more sensible location.

My torque converter also arrived back, very quick turnaround, 7 days door to door, mind you the courier struggled up the yard with it at 830am this morning

Cleaned, new seals throughout, new lock up clutch lining and stall speed increased to approx 3000rpm. Not bad service at all.

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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.
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Old 02-08-2016, 10:57:27 PM   #542
73bandit
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how so you like using the ez wiring kit? i need to rewire my whole car and i am at a bit of a toss up with the wiring between the ez and the aaw kit. thanks.
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Old 02-09-2016, 09:01:05 AM   #543
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It's pretty good, and it's comprehensive. I bought a generic kit, so I had to make an adapter plate for the bulkhead with a grommet to pass the engine harness through. No major problem though.

All the cables are labelled up (printed on the cable) and its got the correct connector for the GM column and start switch too.

It's got all the wires in you need for the basic body circuits, but you will have to add cables for control circuits for heater and wipers for example. You'll also need to make your own ground harness up as required. Other than that, for the $150 or so it cost, I'm very pleased with it.
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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.
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Old 02-09-2016, 05:43:18 PM   #544
Edem_Alive
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Read through about 80% of your thread. Good lord mate, you practically replaced everything ! It's a very cool thread but you use a lot of silly UK words :P
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Old 02-09-2016, 05:52:07 PM   #545
flak monkey
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Lol... it's English... it's you guys on that side of the Atlantic that use the silly words!
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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.

Last edited by flak monkey : 02-09-2016 at 06:10:10 PM.
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Old 02-09-2016, 06:07:26 PM   #546
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I think you said chuffed somewhere and I laughed
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Old 02-20-2016, 12:32:55 PM   #547
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Been spending a bit of time getting the engine bay ready for the new engine to be dropped it. Got it cleaned up before I got rained off for the day. I also need to reroute the fuel feed line across the bulkhead, shorten the return line and finish the cabling. I'm planning to refit the hydroboost as well, as I had a few issues with the installation the first time around. Much easier to do with the engine out of the way.

It was a bit grubby in there, 3k miles with a slightly leaky small block, and dust from paint prep.



Looks better for an hour with some detergent and a brush

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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.
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Old 02-21-2016, 09:37:24 AM   #548
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Spent this morning working the wiring on the car. Nearly done the dash section now.

Then cleaned up the transmission and gave it a coat of satin black. Looks much better now!

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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.
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Old 03-05-2016, 02:23:05 PM   #549
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Been working away on a few bits and pieces - the weather is holding me up more than anything else now.

Found out why my engine mounts didn't line up properly when I dropped my original engine in. The 'heavy duty' type engine mounts aren't correct for a Camaro - and they offset the mounting bolts by about 1/4". So I got hold of some of the correct mounts, which I will fit poly inserts into before I fit them to the car. Trouble is getting to the bolts is a complete nightmare.

One of the the last jobs I needed to do before I could actually put the engine and transmission in the car was to sort out the flex plate. You might remember I machined the back of my truck crank so that I could use the standard LS type flex plate as they are far more common and cheaper to buy than the flat ones. Only problem is they come drilled for the standard LS converter, which has something like an 11" PCD for the converter bolts.

I have a 4L80E and a 'normal' converter for it which has the large 11.5" PCD for the bolts...No problem, I just marked out the flex plate and drilled another set of bolt holes between the others.

I've seen other people just elongate the holes in the plate, but I really didn't like that idea. You can see from the photo below just how far you'd have to go, as my converter has 6 bolt holes.

I might yet elongate the other holes and put bolts and large washers in just for the sake of it, although 3 bolts will be more than adequate.




With that job done, there's nothing really stopping it all going into the car - with the exception of the fact that it's been raining heavily for what seems like an eternity...

Other than that I have started making a pulley for my water pump - I just need to make the boss which will be a light press fit onto the shaft of the pump. I'll then heat it up and drop it onto the shaft so it doesn't go anywhere.
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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.
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Old 03-05-2016, 08:50:57 PM   #550
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Just went thru your build. You've done a fantastic job with what you started with. Car looks wicked!
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Old 03-12-2016, 02:31:48 PM   #551
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Today has been ups and downs...

First job was remove the core support from the car - easy enough



Next up was getting the engine off the stand and the flex plate fitted and the transmission bolted up. No real issues there except that I needed to tap the holes a little deeper in the crank and chop around 2mm off the bolts. I machined a truck crank and they aren't quite drilled as deep as the standard short car crank it seems. Thankfully I have a set of M11x1.5 taps handy...



After that the transmission and converter were fitted with no real dramas.

That's when the fun started, as much my own fault as anything. The mounts wouldn't line up, but then I figured I'd assembled them wrong, oops. Never mind.

The good news is that I don't need to move the engine forward at all, it will fit in the stock position. The bad news is that I think I might have a slight issue with clearance on the steering linkage. I could gain a few mm if I make myself a new set of engine mounts.... seems like a lot of effort, but it might be the only way.



Oh and my transmission cross member fits right up...



So yes, it's sort of in there, I still need to finish off mounting it properly. Ran out of daylight today
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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.
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Old 03-12-2016, 09:05:40 PM   #552
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Looking good
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Old 03-13-2016, 08:02:37 AM   #553
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Isn't there a rule here not to post porn Stop posting porn, I love you for.
Awesome.

About the steering: How much do you suspect the engine to rotate, or the linkage to move?
Dimple the pan?
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Old 03-13-2016, 12:27:44 PM   #554
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looking good man!

re: steering, could you remove just 1-2 mm of material from the tie rod knuckle? You don't want to do that if is means compromising strength of the tie rod, of course.
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Old 03-13-2016, 01:17:08 PM   #555
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Thank you gents...

Today started with pulling the whole engine and transmission back out again - at least that's easy with the core support removed.

I reconfigured all of the mounts and put it all back together again. I also made a small adjustment to the idler arm and now have around 3/8" steering clearance! Yay!

Helped by a number of things, including moving the engine as far back as it will go on the mounts. I followed other peoples advice initially and set it in the 1" forward position. But I think it works nicely in the stock position.... this is using Hooker adapter plates.







After that I got the transmission crossmember installed, this confirmed the transmission is in the same place as it was with the small block. If anything it's slightly further back...

The the driveshaft and a few other bits were hooked up.

The 1st gen headers just do not fit, so I need to get some second gen correct ones. More expense!

The oil pan that I modified hangs just below the crossmember - I made this to the same height as the CTS-V pan knowing that this would happen. I don't run the car too low anyway, so it should be fine.



Next up I fitted the water pump and power steering pump, no real dramas there. The alternator is very close to the sub-frame but there is enough clearance for everything to work. I've left it off until I have primed the oil system as I need access to the port on the side of the block



Last job was to refit the hood and chop a bit out to clear the intake, I'll need to cut some more once I have the hoses and filter fitted, but it should all sit under the scoop nicely

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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.
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