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Old 07-27-2012, 08:14:18 PM   #61
5spd540
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Old 08-11-2012, 02:18:51 AM   #62
Jason7504
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ok well i discovered that a roller rocker retaining nut or poly lock broke and the rocker was basically free floating
could that be the reason for the engine cutting out at the top end?
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1981 Camaro: 468 BB, SRP 10:1 forged pistons, forged rods, Howards mech. roller (.660" lift, 248/248 @ 0.050), Howards direct lube lifters, Howards 1.8 rocker arms, Demon 850 carb, Air Gap intake, Headman 2" headers, pypes 3" exhaust, EA stage 2 billet 200-4R,3.31 posi 12 bolt, Cragar SS wheels, 1.25" front sway bar & 3/4" rear, SFC's/Solid body bushings,PTFB GT suspension, Dakota VHX gauges
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Old 08-11-2012, 02:56:59 AM   #63
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yes
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Old 08-11-2012, 03:07:52 AM   #64
Jason7504
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Originally Posted by wild84
yes

how so? I'm just wondering how that would make it cut out at top end..
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1981 Camaro: 468 BB, SRP 10:1 forged pistons, forged rods, Howards mech. roller (.660" lift, 248/248 @ 0.050), Howards direct lube lifters, Howards 1.8 rocker arms, Demon 850 carb, Air Gap intake, Headman 2" headers, pypes 3" exhaust, EA stage 2 billet 200-4R,3.31 posi 12 bolt, Cragar SS wheels, 1.25" front sway bar & 3/4" rear, SFC's/Solid body bushings,PTFB GT suspension, Dakota VHX gauges
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Old 08-11-2012, 05:03:08 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason7504
i was thinking about an Holley HP150 electric fuel pump but read some threads on here about them not being reliable and a PITA for mainly street use. do you think an edelbrock mech fuel pump that flows 130gph with 10psi max and a regulator would work and be more reliable?

Well here's a person who says mine has been great, for a couple years of hard use now. Its quiet and flows well. It doesn't like air though, so make sure to think about how you draw from the tank, and where you mount the pump.
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Old 08-12-2012, 01:04:22 AM   #66
Jason7504
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how can the fact that one of my roller rockers came loose after a retaining nut broke cause the engine to cut out at the top end?
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1981 Camaro: 468 BB, SRP 10:1 forged pistons, forged rods, Howards mech. roller (.660" lift, 248/248 @ 0.050), Howards direct lube lifters, Howards 1.8 rocker arms, Demon 850 carb, Air Gap intake, Headman 2" headers, pypes 3" exhaust, EA stage 2 billet 200-4R,3.31 posi 12 bolt, Cragar SS wheels, 1.25" front sway bar & 3/4" rear, SFC's/Solid body bushings,PTFB GT suspension, Dakota VHX gauges
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Old 08-12-2012, 03:00:54 PM   #67
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I'm running all stock suspension plus homemade slapper bars. RWHP measured 297 HP and You see what I'm doing. You need more fuel, a Carter electric pump mounted at the tank as a pusher will feed the 110gph mechanical pressurized fuel so it will deliver all it is advertized it can do. Also, if one breaks the other will get you home.

I want to see at least 110 if not 120 mph trap speeds from your car.
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Old 08-15-2012, 12:18:33 AM   #68
Scott_H
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Figure it out yet? I have that problem with my setup, I'm blaming it on springs because it started getting worse gradually to where I can't get to 5k rpm. I also had the lean problem before with a quadrajet, turned out a piece of rubber fuel line come off an lodged in the filter.

I thought you can tell if it was fuel if the car feels like it's pushing against a hard oncoming wind. The front of the car might dive from sudden loss of power.

How much from the dyno carried over to the car with the fuel system? Would be an easy check to go somewhere an run the car out an then shut the car off an check a spark plug to see what it looks like. Before you go spending to much.

I have a 850 on my 468 an remember 80's but not the specific number so you should be good with that. I'll mention I'm running a stock fuel pump too. Still ran my fastest times with it. Check for a restriction in a fuel filter or somewhere.

I also broke a rocker arm stud at the track, but 7 cylinders would be all around slow not just no top end.
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