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04-07-2012, 08:40:16 PM
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#1
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Jeffersonville NY USA
Posts: 1,546
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cooling system problem
Im cruiseing down the highway today and lay into it a little. I look over at the temp gauge and its at 240..Usually runs 180..After just a few seconds it falls rapidly back to 190..I got off the hway a couple miles later and its back up again..I pulled off to let it cool and check the coolant..It blew some coolant off into the catch''beer'' can, and wet down the engine compartment a bit..After I added the coolant I made it back home with no issues,about 12 miles..Does this sound like a sticking T-stat? I wondered if the stock radiator is suffecient for 430 or so hp also..The water pump seems to be working as I can see a strong flow of coolant in the rad..Any thoughts..
Thanks.
__________________
RWF
1980 Z28
355 vortec solid cammed 10.5;1 422 in progress 11:1 comp afr 210 heads 250 solid roller
videos
[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3pUJKqnxxc
[/urhttp://www.mypowerblock.com/video/vortec-running-027l]
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04-07-2012, 10:05:26 PM
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#2
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Fresno, California
Posts: 1,424
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I went through 3 thermostats in my 413 Pontiac (same size thermostat as your Chevrolet) that did the exact same thing. The first was a Stant, and then two MotoRads.
When I took the thermostat out, and ran only the hollowed-out thermostat body, the car runs 145° all the time and less than 170° on the dyno under load.
The only reason I put a thermostat in the car was to make my wife comfortable when she was driving it.
Made more power on the dyno too running the motor cold....Robert
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04-09-2012, 06:26:05 PM
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#3
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Jeffersonville NY USA
Posts: 1,546
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Thanks for the reply. I think ill look for a colder t stat...195 is what the stock one is..You think there is a power increase with a colder engine??I read an article once that nascars run hot because they make more power at a higher temp..I thouight it was around 230 that they ran at.Could be due to their specs??
__________________
RWF
1980 Z28
355 vortec solid cammed 10.5;1 422 in progress 11:1 comp afr 210 heads 250 solid roller
videos
[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3pUJKqnxxc
[/urhttp://www.mypowerblock.com/video/vortec-running-027l]
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04-09-2012, 09:32:53 PM
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#4
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Tucson AZ/Ft Rucker AL
Posts: 450
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Try a 180* stat. A 195* one in my car had similar issues to what you write about but not quite that high in temps. I replaced it with a 180* unit and it is pretty rock steady.
__________________
305 w/ domed pistons, camel hump heads shaved, 3/4 Race cam, dual quads on a tunnel ram, K&N, hurst speed shifter, shift kit, and air shocks.
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04-10-2012, 07:25:19 AM
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#5
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Gas Fume Heaven, Coastal Northeast, USA
Posts: 892
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The Robert Shaw type that Mr. Gasket sells as HP balanced like this one work excellent. Also I run 180* in the fall and 160* during the heat of summer.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-4364/
__________________
79 Camaro 355, 11:2:1, 462HP@6.8K. AutoGear M-22,4:10s,GW BMBs,C/E SFCs+Caltracs,PTFB goodies.Go Get Em Ben #11
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04-10-2012, 03:38:22 PM
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#6
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Posts: 187
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Mine does the same thing sometimes, check for leaks near the top of your cooling system and follow your temp gauge line to see if its hitting a header or something. I have a feeling its air bubbles.
__________________
1974 Camaro Z28
383 Stroker, 4-bolt main, Forged bottom end, flat top 2VR pistons, 11:1 CR
Single Plane High Rise Intake
Mighty Demon 750 carb
RHS Aluminum heads, 68cc chambers, 210 runners,1.5 full roller rockers
520/540 lift, 241/249 dur, 110 lobe sep, Solid Lunati Voodoo cam
Built Turbo 350 tranny, with shift kit, 3500 stall converter
Posi rear-end with 3.73 gears
Dyno'd at 420 RWHP
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04-10-2012, 04:22:43 PM
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#7
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Lifetime Gold Member
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 11,348
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Too cold will give you less HP. I've had the same stat in mine for the last 27 yrs with no issues.
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04-10-2012, 05:05:00 PM
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#8
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Gold Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Southern Maryland
Posts: 8,144
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Regardless of running the car way cold giving more or less power, I would just be worried about too cold not cooking out moisture over time. If you never reach boiling, where is the moisture inherent to operating in IC engine going?
__________________
Steven H. www.carfap.net
1985 BMW 745i Turbo, Euro model import, 18" Antera wheels
1986.5 Porsche 928S, 5.0 32v V8, 18" 993 turbo wheels
1988 K1500, 5.7 TPI swapped
1999 C1500, new 5.7 Vortec, 4" lift spindles, EFILive V2 tuner
2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.10s, Heinous billet rear control arms, SCT Advantage III tuner
2004 Taurus SEL, Ingalls tubular control arms
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04-10-2012, 08:16:15 PM
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#9
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Philly area
Posts: 10,810
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Anything 160* or above is plenty warm to keep the engine healthy and happy. I, too, have found that colder stats often make a smidge more power.
The REAL reason I run a colder stat is because at the dragstrip engine heat builds FAST during the run. The stat lags behind in it's opening and things can get a bit toasty on the big end if you're pulling out of the burnout box already at 190*.
Start the run at 190, finish at 210. Start at 160, finish at 180. Give or take- rough rule of thumb I use.
__________________
1990 454SS pickup. Original "tow truck motor" 454 upgraded to something a little more "aggressive." Seems pretty stout but the fuel bill is nuts.
78 Malibu. Inherited with only 35K on the odo! Mild 383 with Weiand 142 blower on top. Mid 12s appears to be the best it's gonna do on street rubber. Runs so good I may never drive it again.
"Last remaining QJet tuner on planet Earth!"
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04-10-2012, 09:42:16 PM
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#10
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: CORONA, CA
Posts: 2,023
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Sounds like an air buble in the system. I converted my Porsche 914 to a Chevy 350 and your symptoms are classic to what mine used to.
If you burp the system it should be an easy fix (assuming it is not your t-stat).
To burp the sytems simply start your car with rad cap off. You should see the water flowing and it will bubble up (burping). Once that happens and it is flowing with no more burps, put the cap on and get the car to operating temp. The water should flow some to the overflow tank. Let it sit for a while to cool. Fill it up with water, or anti freeze and road test her.
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04-14-2012, 08:09:29 AM
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#11
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Jeffersonville NY USA
Posts: 1,546
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I took the t stat out and snipped off the whole center section..Just a restrictor now..It takes a while to warm up and runs at 155 after a few miles..seems to run a little better..Hard to tell, could just be the day..always seems different day to day.. Thanks
Golf72, I have 2 944s for sale if you know anyone looking..I see your on the left coast though..Ill post em in the classified section.
__________________
RWF
1980 Z28
355 vortec solid cammed 10.5;1 422 in progress 11:1 comp afr 210 heads 250 solid roller
videos
[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3pUJKqnxxc
[/urhttp://www.mypowerblock.com/video/vortec-running-027l]
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04-15-2012, 07:54:00 AM
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#12
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Gas Fume Heaven, Coastal Northeast, USA
Posts: 892
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Hulk the 160* will run at 170* in summer heat and 160* in the cool fall, also the 180* does the same 190* in the summer and 180* in fall or spring. You don't want it to run too cool or the oil wont reach proper temp. I wouldn't run under 170* that's why I run a 160* in summer and a 180* in the spring and fall.
__________________
79 Camaro 355, 11:2:1, 462HP@6.8K. AutoGear M-22,4:10s,GW BMBs,C/E SFCs+Caltracs,PTFB goodies.Go Get Em Ben #11
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