'99 Tahoe 5.7 vortec rebuild

[Louich]

boy this is getting into a lot of money on tuning software and parts for a stock rebuild....how many stock rebuilds need wave locks? they made it a pile of miles the first time round with what they had...

[1972L]

Wave locs are $54 from Jegs
http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/134-6403/10002/-1?CT=999
The Pro-series are the $$$ ones

Cheap insurance for a smallblock spinning 5500 RPM in a 5400lb truck

[efh]

Originally Posted by 1972L

Wave locs are $54 from Jegs
http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/134-6403/10002/-1?CT=999
The Pro-series are the $$$ ones

Cheap insurance for a smallblock spinning 5500 RPM in a 5400lb truck

Wave locks aren't really the plan for PM rods they tend to add stress to the bolt bosses and housing bore [on some rods you can even see the ripple they cause in the boss ] PM rods have problems with stress and that's what causes the loose brg in them in the first place the relaxing of the housing bore over time as the stress relieves

[spicewood1]

Tore it down today. Yep, cut caps so they can be resized. All internals look great, but #2 rod is spun for sure. What are the specs on that LT4 cam - sounds interesting. I read up on that tune info - some amazing stuff there!
Paul

[MyBoTy]

I'm with Louich, performance rod bolts are probably a bit over the top on a stock type rebuild. There are a lot of BBC's out there with factory rod bolts spinning well above 6K and they're the same diameter as these in this 350. Chunk the rod with the spun bearing, these PM rods are plentiful and you should be able to find a single somewhere. Definitely have 'em all resized, but I'd probably leave the factory rod bolts in place.
There's no timing mark on these, but there are a few tricks to getting the dist stabbed correctly. You'll find quite a few knowledgeable folks on your trucks at http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum.php. Some will tell you that you'll need to visit a dealership to get timing zero'd in, but I never have. If you get it close, the computer will do the rest.

[MadMike]

My truck rarely spins over 4000 RPM. When I tow, I sit right at 3000 - 3300 RPM at 70MPH.

You need a Tech2 (GM diagnostic tool) to see what the timing is. As mentioned, you need to get it close, so the engine will run without the SES light.

I redid my distributor and accidently did everything correct the 1st time so it ran fine. Then I figured out I'd time it cause it was running cool and seemed to be a little weak. I backdoored a Tech2 and checked the CPS setting and I was at 3. Spec is 0 to 2, +/-. So we set it to 0. Made no change in how the truck ran. I wouldn't pay $$ to have someplace put the tech2 on my truck. "Someplace" is typically a dealer. The Tech2 costs a fortune. My low rent diagnostic tools don't show the CPS parameter.

[Louich]

Originally Posted by MadMike

My truck rarely spins over 4000 RPM. When I tow, I sit right at 3000 - 3300 RPM at 70MPH.

You need a Tech2 (GM diagnostic tool) to see what the timing is. As mentioned, you need to get it close, so the engine will run without the SES light.

I redid my distributor and accidently did everything correct the 1st time so it ran fine. Then I figured out I'd time it cause it was running cool and seemed to be a little weak. I backdoored a Tech2 and checked the CPS setting and I was at 3. Spec is 0 to 2, +/-. So we set it to 0. Made no change in how the truck ran. I wouldn't pay $$ to have someplace put the tech2 on my truck. "Someplace" is typically a dealer. The Tech2 costs a fortune. My low rent diagnostic tools don't show the CPS parameter.

the snap on scanners will read them too.

[spicewood1]

Final word is the crank is junk, worn down as much as a rod bearing thickness. Took out the oil pump and every other bearing (cam too) in the motor with all the metal shavings. Already have all the new parts for reassembly except for the oil pump. So much confusion out there - I see a standard volume Melling M155 but how do I avoid the weak housing pump - don't know good from bad?

Also, why am I seeing some who recommend not reusing the head bolts? I cleaned and checked every one and they look perfectly fine and identical to my old school bolts except for a smaller head. The ones under the valve cover area are plain but the short ones along the bottom edge are a silvery plating. They have 1/2" socket head but otherwise they are identical to early 70's.
Paul