327 build- need advice heads and cam selection

[KansasTwister]

Originally Posted by ProStreet383

Nah the 195's would work great with the right cam and compression. A lot of people dont seem to understand how the AFR heads work. The 195 heads have a medium size runner but still flow as good or better than most heads with 227 or bigger runners. What happens with the bigger runners is the velocity of the air and fuel slows down and makes the engine a pig down low. Well take a medium size runner of 195 and make it flow like a big runner and suddenly you have a high flowing high speed runner design that makes gobs of power. I didnt notice you have a 4 speed. Well that opens things up a bit. Like sooner says 11:1 would be much better and will work fine with premium pump gas.

Ok with the new info I would like to see

AFR eliminator 195's

11:1 compression

Lunati solid tappet 401C3LUN

Solid, rough idle. Good Pro Street or Bracket Race cam for 355-406 cubic inch motors. Needs 3500-4000 RPM stall converter, headers, 10.5:1 or better compression ratio, and 4.10 or better gearing.

* Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 292/301
* Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 259/267
* Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .551/.551
* LSA/ICL: 110/104
* Valve Lash (Int/Exh): .026/.026
* RPM Range: 3500-7500

Victor Jr intake

Holley 750 DP


327's like rpms! This combo would allow the heads to breath right at the sweet spot. 7500rpm is nothing for a properly built 327!

Old man taught me that a tach that doesnt read 10k rpm is useless.

On a street car i thought your supposed to stay away from single planes? Would a rpm air gap or a 300-36 still work pretty good? I know the rpms have a similar performance range as the vics, and the old holley intakes are argued to be better than the rpms.

[KansasTwister]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-70992/

Would you guys just use the lunati mechanical lifters too? I usualy just buy the complete "cam kit" that includes cam lifters nad oil, but for some reason, at least with this cam, i didnt find the complete solid lifter kit.

[pdq67]

For a stock 275/300hp/327 engine here w/ a 4-speed and say at least 3.31 reg's. 3.73's will be darn near perfect.

If it was mine, I'd install Vortec heads and .015" shim headgaskets on it that are reworked for at least .500" lift and that have at least Z-28 springs! Heck, pin the studs and GO!

As for a cam, something like an Isky Z-20, small Crower or CC's 270S solid flat-tappet lifter cams are fine.

You want more up stairs, then consider CC's 282S and Isky's Z-25 here.. But both of these will really like a true 10.25+ to 1 CR.

Intake, a stock 750 Q-Jet or a 750 Holley 3310-2 tuned on their old 300-36 true high-rise and a 1.625" dia., 4-tube, long headers.

And I will guarantee that you will have more fun than John Law will allow!!

You get her up to 11 to 1 and Isky's old Z-30 will rpm above 8,000 rpm easy w/ their springs!

pdq67

[sooner]

Originally Posted by KansasTwister

Old man taught me that a tach that doesnt read 10k rpm is useless.

On a street car i thought your supposed to stay away from single planes? Would a rpm air gap or a 300-36 still work pretty good? I know the rpms have a similar performance range as the vics, and the old holley intakes are argued to be better than the rpms.

Not really sure what your goals are as far as streetability, but that cam might be a little aggressive for a car that spends most of its time on the street IMO.

However, if you do decide on that cam, then by all means go with a single plane. They are designed to make power at high rpm and I would think that even as versitle as the performer rpm is, it would have a hard time breathing at the 8k you will be spinning it at.

[KansasTwister]

a little on the aggressive side for the street doesnt scare me, its going to be a strip inspired street car. Now, im not going to go off the depend like scrapmetals "im a street car" lol.

Im still on the fence about the intake, a single plane wouldnt hurt too much i guess, although i always felt the rpm air gap was pretty much the closest to a single plane you wanted to get for a street car.

[onovakind67]

I used a single plane VicJr 2999 with a Brodix 105 turtle on our 331" road race motor and it worked very well in the mid-3000 rpm range, 340#ft to the rear wheels at 3400 rpm.

[pdq67]

Please hunt up Butch, (aka, trmnatr), on our Boards and flat ask him b/e he make's these little engines really COOK!!

Tell him ol' pdq67 sent you asking!

Team Camaro, Team Chevelle and here too!

pdq67

[pdq67]

Please hunt up Butch, (aka, trmnatr), on our Boards and flat ask him b/e he make's these little engines really COOK!!

Tell him ol' pdq67 sent you asking!

Team Camaro, Team Chevelle and here too!

pdq67

[pdq67]

Mod, please remove these multiple posts!

Thanks,

pdq67

[KansasTwister]

hey pdq, heard ya the first time, lol. I was trying to remember who did up the 327 build, i have it saved under my threads somewhere, ill have to find it.

Edit: alright messaged him and invited him to the thread. Thanks for the name reminder pdq! But i think someones trying to up their post count haha.

[trmnatr]

Originally Posted by KansasTwister

hey pdq, heard ya the first time, lol. I was trying to remember who did up the 327 build, i have it saved under my threads somewhere, ill have to find it.

Edit: alright messaged him and invited him to the thread. Thanks for the name reminder pdq! But i think someones trying to up their post count haha.

Sorry about a late response

I would love to see a roller cam in this, if not there are some good flat tappet solid cams

195cc heads are not too big, i use Dart 215's and on one i have a set of ported aluminum heads CNC'd that are 217cc intake runners. Whats critical is valve size, heads, cam, compression AND HEADERS

Everybody installs a small header because its a small engine, I have had these things run quicker with larger headers when they should ET quicker with smaller headers in THEORY

327's like larger cams but they have to be on tighter lobe seperation angles, usually 104-108

Crane has a grind out that would be awesome,,, (solid roller)
290/306 @.020" 260/268 @.050" .670"/.625" 106 lobe seperation

With a solid flat tappet i would go with a Crane Saturday Night Special
256/264 @.050" .545"/.563" 105 lobe seperation

If you go roller i may have something for you laying around, i would have to look. It will prefer roller for sure.

The transmission will like the tight lobe center and long duration, you can usually go bigger with a 4 speed because you cant handle the extra low/mid range anyways and it doesnt kill street because you have a clutch, not a huge torque converter.

If it were me with a 4 speed i would say screw STREET and build it 12.5:1 plus, a roller cam such as mine (see spec below by *) and make some serious hp

* 307/313 .020" 278/284 @.050" .678"/.678" 106 lobe center installed @ 106 ,,,,,,, Video of this cam in a 327 with Dart 215's in a heavier "Street Legal" Chevelle below. Spun through low gear (you can hear it), spiked rpm's high on 1-2 (8800rpm), lifted 50' before stripe and ran 1.765 60 foot time , 7.49 @94.93mph at the 1/8th and 11.645 @118.98mph lifted 50' before stripe (you can hear this too) - We burried the tach off the line (freeking rev limiter got unhooked by accident)

http://s510.photobucket.com/albums/s...t=MVI_0362.flv

BTW, we have a TH400 which robs power from a little engine like this

As to the pistons, use anything other than TRW. A D Wall ring is bore/22 = radial of .183"

This is what most D wall rings are for a 4.030" bore, .183"

You want .005"-.007" ring back clearance in the groove, this gives you the fastest ring response without gas ports and other things - TRW grooves i have seen are cut .220" deep, With a .183" ring this gives you almost .040" ring back clearance

If your using longer rods, you can use a 6.125" rod hooked to a Probe 1.26" compression height piston which are very good pistons and usually .187"-.189" deep grooves giving you proper ring back clearance

If you choose to keep 5.7" or 6" rods the best piston you can buy off the shelf would be a Keith Black 2618 Premium Forged piston. They run $400-$450 through Summit/Jegs. These also have properly cut ring gooves to give you proper back clearance

Small Journal Crankshaft will hold up very good.

Eagle or other rods should be used for reliable power @ high rpm.

If your willing to have a 8,000rpm 327, You will have one of the baddest 327's in your area.

Would suggest splayed caps pushing that kind of power if you take that leap, 4.56's would work good too in that car. I would try 4.10's first as i think thats what you have, correct ?

Couple photos of Keith Black Premium Forged 2618 Pistons


underside of above Keith Black Premium Forged 2618 Piston


view from the side showing the ring grooves, anti detonation grooves, accumulator grooves and the skirt