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#16 | |
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Gold Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Salem, NH
Posts: 409
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Be mindful of some of the things Steve mentioned. Relocating the hole in the floor, getting another drive shaft, special ujoints, adds up. People are getting more money for T5's now. Figure.. T5 $400 used Driveshaft $75 Ujoints $50 Hurst T5 shifter (don't make them any more) $100 used Special fabricated cross member - $50 labor $675-700 (more or less) for something that you have to cut a hole in the floor, move the center console, tinker with the shifter, and risk potential pinion angle issues until you "get it right". I like T5's. But I've known Steve for a few years now, and he knows what he's talking about and he's outlined the swap fairly well. Sometimes it's worth a little extra to buy something that will give the most longevity with minimal cutting and grinding. From what I understand a TKO-500 is a direct swap. -- Joe |
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#17 |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Southern Maryland
Posts: 3,293
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Joe I am still looking for my magical marvel one-off 2nd gen T5 swap cross member. there is no way I threw this thing out, it has to be around somewhere
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Steven H., Charles Cty, MD 1979 Z28 project thread, 10:1 350, World Sportsman II heads, XM276HR roller cam, 700R4, PATC Raptor 5X converter, Hotchkis front springs and Bilstein/Hotchkis shocks front and rear 1980 Firebird project thread, 76 Formula hood/nose/bumpers, 350 chevy, 4 speed saginaw |
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#18 | |
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Gold Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Salem, NH
Posts: 409
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Haha sounds good. So you are running a 4spd (t10?) now? I'm working on a 412 build. Still on the fence about the trans thing. I'd like the T5 for overdrive, but in the back of my mind I feel that a 412 in a heavy car like a 2nd gen might not be a great idea with a T5.. When I used to run these transmissions in my 3rd gens they were like $200-250 all day, so if you broke one who cares. Now I'm seeing people asking $400+ for them. Car has a 10 bolt with 4.11s right now. Probably gonna shoot for a 3.73, though if I end up with a T10 or TH350 a 3.42 might be a better choice. -- Joe |
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#19 | |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Pepperell,Ma
Posts: 457
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There is nothing direct about the TKO swap. The Tremec 3550, TKO, TKO II, TKO 500, AND TKO 600 are the same outer dimensions. You will need to move the Xmember back and drill new holes or spend $$ on and new one designed for it. You still have to use the mustang drive shaft and conversion ujoints. You will also have to mod the floor board or spend the money on the offset shifter. I did the 3550 swap 6-8 years ago with parts from Fortes here in MA. I had to piece my own kit together and passed the info on to others. Sadly, I only have 600 miles on the car since.
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smooth, flat, and on the gas...the way all corners should be taken |
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#20 | |
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Gold Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Salem, NH
Posts: 409
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Quote:
Yeah, I guess you have to change a few things over.. my bad: GM Version: The GM versions (TKO-500 TCET4616) and TKO-600 TCET4618/5009) come with the following modifications to specifically fit your early GM: * GM 26 spline 1 1/8” input shaft. * GM bearing retainer to allow it to fit right to your GM bellhousing! * GM bellhousing bolt patter to allow it to borlt right up to your GM bellhousing! * The TH400 or TH350 transmission mount can be used (use 10mm x 1.5 bolts) * A GM speedometer gear adapter is available, as is an electronic speedo sensor. * Note the Shifter: section below. * The rear torque arm boss can be removed for you for free by us, just ask. Installing a TKO into a 1970-81 GM F-Body The GM TKO will fit into your tunnel, your bellhousing, clutch components (pilot bearing, throwout bearing, clutch, etc), and will use your existing speedometer cable. You will need to open up your existing shifter opening a bit. See pics here (click this link). You do not need to move your console, as shown in these pics. The driveshaft will need shortened about 2”, and the C4 or C6 slip yoke installed onto it. Would you like a brand new low cost aluminum driveshaft! Read more here! Your crossmember will need modified, and moved rearward about 2”. Move the crossmember rearward such that the front bolt holes line up with the last bolt holes in the frame. Drill 2 new holes for the rear bolt holes in the crossmember. The modification is to move the mount tab to the rearward side of the crossmember, as shown in these pics. Here is a nice writeup: http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/kafka_writeup.html Last edited by anesthes : 06-24-2009 at 02:56:25 PM. |
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#21 |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Southern Maryland
Posts: 3,293
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I am running a 3.50 ratio 1st gear saginaw behind a very strong roller 350!! It is not going to live at all but I wanted to see how the car drives using the very wide ratio trans and a 3.08 rear. It will effectively be the same as a 700R with 3.73s, but actually with a much better rpm drop 1-2 (like 30 something % instead of the 700R 50% drop 1-2)
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Steven H., Charles Cty, MD 1979 Z28 project thread, 10:1 350, World Sportsman II heads, XM276HR roller cam, 700R4, PATC Raptor 5X converter, Hotchkis front springs and Bilstein/Hotchkis shocks front and rear 1980 Firebird project thread, 76 Formula hood/nose/bumpers, 350 chevy, 4 speed saginaw |
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#22 | |
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Gold Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Salem, NH
Posts: 409
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I see. So the saginaws are not that strong? I have the option of buying a T10 locally. Other than owning a '78 Z28 10 years ago, and selling it 8 years ago I don't recall much of these cars. The car is currently set up for a TH350, well at least the B&m shifter and pedals are. I don't even have a cross member or a driveshaft. 700R4 is simply not an option. I hated the one I had in the C4. that was built with the transgo, and the raptor converter. I just hated it. I may like a T10 but I guess I'd have to drive one. Not sure if a Th350 will bore me. -- Joe |
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