primer life?

Silverblue75 · 03-19-2010, 04:51:38 PM

how long can a car be primer and not painted?

GoldenOne7710 · 03-19-2010, 05:08:15 PM

My car has worn primer since 1997.....and is just now getting painted.

That being said, depending on where it spends most of its time has a lot to do with how long it will last. Mine has been out in the weather 99% of those 13 years it wore primer.....and yes some rust did form and ruin both front fenders and the passenger side rear qtr panel. Replaced all of them with new sheet metal.

496z28 · 03-19-2010, 11:08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GoldenOne7710

My car has worn primer since 1997.....and is just now getting painted.

That being said, depending on where it spends most of its time has a lot to do with how long it will last. Mine has been out in the weather 99% of those 13 years it wore primer.....and yes some rust did form and ruin both front fenders and the passenger side rear qtr panel. Replaced all of them with new sheet metal.

What kind of primer did you use?

76 camaro car · 03-20-2010, 08:20:39 AM

If you used a 2k primer you should have no problem.

BusDriver · 03-20-2010, 06:12:16 PM

Epoxy should last pretty near forever, anything else is a guess...

earlysecond · 03-21-2010, 08:44:50 AM

if it was NOT epoxy, and the car was anywhere but a desert. . . I remove all of the aged lacquer primer BEFORE I do anything.

I have already been burned. Can you get away with it. . .possibly but is it worth it. Hard to beat a good epoxy, properly applied to well prepped bare metal. In fact, some of my reasearch suggests that the chemical bond is nearly as strong as the bond created by powdercoating!

It will be a lot of work NOW or potentially a lot MORE work later. . .sorry but that is the reality.

Brent

Simon@London · 03-21-2010, 08:55:48 AM

X2 what Brent said, primer hides imperfections like moisture sliding under the coat. You then paint it bang....it begins to bubble or doesn't bond the coats very well.

I wouldn't risk it with all the nasty stuff in the air landing on that primer it's probably better to strip it all off.

76 camaro car · 03-21-2010, 09:25:34 AM

Did you do your research on 2k or just epoxy and lacquer ? Lacquer primer is like a sponge,that is why its hardly used anymore. 2k urethane primer seals the surface and is one of, if not the hardest primers available.

earlysecond · 03-21-2010, 01:01:46 PM

76,

I usually only use epoxy. The brand I am currently using builds nicely so I have not had to use 2K primer surfacer, regular or high build in awhile. I am confident that I will again and have some in my possession.

What do you believe regarding other 2K? The difference should merely be TRUE solids, read talc. The catylzed base SHOULD be similar. I would suspect that while a direct to metal 2K would be fine, I have no additional information.

Let me know what you think.

Brent

76 camaro car · 03-21-2010, 04:05:56 PM

2K (two component) is any product that uses a hardener. It may also use a third component such as a reducer. 2K products cure by molecules linking together to form a whole new compound. Most 2Ks are insoluble after fully curing and will not soften when exposed to the elements. Epoxies that use hardeners are considered 2K products as are most paints with the exception of lacquers and some synthetic and acrylic enamel that do not require hardeners. Thankfully these products are not used that much in today's market.

earlysecond · 03-21-2010, 08:25:31 PM

76,

That was a good description of modern paint chemistry! I think I confused the issue by not adding that unless the OP used a CATYLIZED primer then they should remove it. [vs a single stage product, typically lacquer primer]

I was thinking more of the first step in the process, for which I usually rely on epoxy primer. Certainly ANY 2k primer labeled for Direct to Metal [DTM] would have been a fine choice. The school of hard knocks, which has only been in session for me for about 5 years, admittedly, has taught me that if it is not prepped, properly seam sealed where necessary, and treated with chemically cured paint products, [the exception is moisture cured urethanes popular in paint over rust products and even then I remain leary!] then you are going to end up doing it again. I learned this tough lesson every time my car gets a new stone chip or panel edge ding. I used lacquer primer and NEVER will again!!!! Did I mention that I won't ever to that again haha!

So I believe that we are on the same page and in agreement, I was just not as clear as I should have been.

Brent

76 camaro car · 03-21-2010, 11:32:15 PM

Brent, I know where you are coming from. Back in the late 70s and early 80s lacquer primers were all we used. All spot work was done with lacquer and GM was even using it as the factory finish on our cars. I painted a 72 cuda plum crazy and put 30 coats of lacquer clear on it. Today it makes me cringe to even think that I ever did that.

hogg · 03-22-2010, 01:45:47 AM

most epoxy ,some 2 part primers says to wipe down with some kind of tinner or something to (refresh)they call it, the primer,,check with who ever made it,,

BusDriver · 03-22-2010, 08:46:13 AM

A real epoxy won't do anything when wiped down with thinner. You have to sand epoxy if it's been long enough to fully set up. I think it's 2-3 days for most of them, but check any individual product to be 100% sure on it.

If you can wipe it with something to re-soften it for recoating then it's not a real 2k catalized product.

BondoSpecial · 03-22-2010, 10:36:46 AM

+99 on what was said here. My 76 Firebird was stripped to bare steel on the entire body over 10 years ago, lacquer primered, and left outside. It didn't look that bad until I stripped it back to metal and the entire body is rust stained under the paint. It's so bad I don't know that you could ever make this car paintable again