got my lift bars installed-pics inside

al5570 · 12-22-2007, 05:06:09 PM

Well now that i am on winter break and have some free time(actually not studying for once).....i got out in the garage and got my lift bars installed. went pretty smoothly, only took a couple of hours. had to use the dremel on one piece to help get the screws to align, but that wasnt bad at all. but i did find out that my rear sway bar probably wasnt working all so well. when i undid some of the bolts, part of it just fell to the floor, haha(first pic). didnt get a chance to run the car to see how they work, it was wet outside, plus i cant seem to get the carb tuned right, so she still doesnt want to run. will update when i get a chance to test them on the road.

The car is pretty dirty, but cant wash it til its running right again. And does anyone know a good way to seal a garage floor, for some reason my floor gets so wet. i dont know if it comes up through cracks, seeps up through floor, or actually drains in from some hole in the wall or something.

TANGO Z28 · 12-22-2007, 05:10:14 PM

Now install some frame connectors and you-will be set !

al5570 · 12-22-2007, 05:34:31 PM

i know, i almost bought some when i bought my lift bars, but i figure my list of to-do's is already long enough.............how hard are subframe connectors to install, id have to go bolt on style just because i dont weld.

tyster · 12-22-2007, 07:44:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by al5570

i know, i almost bought some when i bought my lift bars, but i figure my list of to-do's is already long enough.............how hard are subframe connectors to install, id have to go bolt on style just because i dont weld.

I would get a friend that can weld and just fab a pair yourself. Cheaper and IMO better than bolt-ins. There a good thread on here on How-To make your own connectors.

Marks71BB · 12-22-2007, 05:41:11 PM

Yeah, that sway bar was swayin in the wind wasnt it?

good deal on the trac bars.

SFC's are not too difficult with the right tools.. and a dry floor

al5570 · 12-22-2007, 07:04:05 PM

haha, yea that floor is the worst, i really dont know what the deal is with it. working on the floor isnt all that much fun, my back was all wet today. i need to figure out something to seal it, or find out where the moisture is coming from. im just afraid all that moisture in the garage is going to really do a number on my car if it is there for a while. whole point of having the garage is to keep it out of the weather so it will last, but that garage isnt doing what its supposed to.

kik_start · 12-22-2007, 07:23:49 PM

The floor will get wet when there are big temp changes like we've been having lately. Mine does the same thing. The one thing you could do it get a heater and it may stop long enough to work on it....That should stop when it get's real cold or real hot.

The car looks good. I like the way it sits looks bad to the bone!

al5570 · 12-22-2007, 09:08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kik_start

The floor will get wet when there are big temp changes like we've been having lately. Mine does the same thing. The one thing you could do it get a heater and it may stop long enough to work on it....That should stop when it get's real cold or real hot.

The car looks good. I like the way it sits looks bad to the bone!

John, thanks, i like the way the rear sits now too, its such a better stance than with the air shocks. and those fat meats you sold me fit under there perfectly. i was thinking about maybe getting a dehumidifier and just running it when its wet out, or i notice the floor is wet.

I might do those SFC's if they are only 75 and weld in, thats not bad at all. ill have to get a set from that guy sometime before spring time.

kik_start · 12-22-2007, 08:06:34 PM

Andy, there is a guy locally makes and sells the SFC's for our cars, they cost 75.00 and are good quality weld in peices.

I have a welder and you could bring you car over here in the spring and put them on if you want.

This guy is at all of the swap meets usually and the next one is 12/30/07 in Belleville.

The other option is to buy bolt in and they should be easy too.

tyster · 12-22-2007, 08:12:43 PM

I used a pair from Checker Racing out Indiana that worked well. They were 75$. I'll see you guys @ Belleville.

K5JMP · 12-22-2007, 08:24:21 PM

lookin' good! I run the same bars... like the others say, need to get sub-frame connectors.

BACKN73 · 12-23-2007, 12:54:33 AM

Looks good! Are those Lakewood bars?

BTW..............was there any kind of a plastic put in underneath the concrete when it was poured? If not, then that may be your problem. Would putting some kind of a concrete paint/sealant on it help any?

TANGO Z28 · 12-23-2007, 04:21:11 AM

You can buy the Competition Engineering bolt on ones . Summit part #CEE-3114 1976-81 Camaro / Firebird . Also install the Moroso Aluminum body mounts at the same time with new bolts . The bolt in connectors are good and later they to can be welded . When installing them lift the car with the jack stands under the front coil springs and the rear axle . make sure the car is level front to back side to side . Do not open the door on the car till the connectors are bolted down in place . The front of the rear spring hangers need to be unbolted . There are just 3 bolt on them . You don't have to remove the big spring eye bolt . Then pry the rear spring down and slide the connector under it . Then start all the 3 bolts . Some times you may have to dent the floor slightly and unbolt a line clamp . The front part is just one big bolt . When all the bolts are started . Place a jack under the center of the connector with just a little pressure . Now tighten all the bolts . Now your car will be faster stop better and handle better . This is a real must for any F body car even stock ones !

67lemanster · 12-23-2007, 09:07:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BACKN73

Looks good! Are those Lakewood bars?

?

no they are remakes of the old lift bars that jegs in now making. a better alternative to the lakewood traction bars, originally called south side lift bars, i believe. they are about 20 bucks more than lakewoods bar but well worth the extra cheese from what all the drag racers say. the best low buck solution to wheel hop. heres the link http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...53171_-1_10083

ihave ce bolt in sfc. they are a good piece if you dont have access to a welder right away. bolt them in the run down to your local muffler and have them welded in 3 places. the protouing fbody ones are made by alston racing also a great bar and actually tie in to your rear frame rails instead of the front spring pockets like the ce's. ce arent to expesive either and fit is good. just make sure you get the right part number as there are 2 different sets of sfc's they make for our car.

andymiller · 12-23-2007, 12:31:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67lemanster

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...53171_-1_10083
.

Do these just bolt up over the spring plate? Or replace it?

Are these a better opition than universal slapper bars? I have a set but they tend to warp the leaf's.