Its too bad (and maybe a good thing) this board is "family" safe (most of the time) because the language i'd like to use isnt family safe.

Heres the story:
Friday night last week, New Years Eve, 11:30pm. Fired up my new 406 after a full day of wrenching and running to the parts store. 2 bolt ARP studded mains, 509 high nickel block, SCAT 9000 series crank, H-Beam 4340 rods, Forged probe pistons -15cc dish, Crane Hydraulic Roller 296/304 .539/.558", pro magnum 1.6 roller rocker, AFR 210 heads milled to 64 cc, 10.5 compression if i can remember now, 1.75" super comps, x-pipe, aluminum water pump, msd pro billet distributor, 825cfm mighty demon. maybe some other really expensive stuff.. victor jr

Anyway, it fires up, got good oil pressure, runs like shit because of timing. spend the 2nd tweaking and tuning, get it running pretty good, go out for a nice little drive. Go over to a friend's house. (Oil pressure gauge is located in the engine bay still)... Glance at that gauge... ZERO pressure. ok. Rev the motor, goes straight to 50 lbs, then back to 0 at idle. Drive home. call machinist

GOT NO OIL PRESSURE NOW

pull the motor and bring it to me!!

ok. so i spent the next day pulling the motor and wasting all my nice fresh fluids. brought it down to the guy. 3 hours later, he calls me back

NOTHING WRONG WITH YOUR MOTOR
"This isnt fun and games for me, I'm not getting paid to look at it. Your gauge must be messed up"

So i'm put through this guilt trip, plus i've pulled my motor for no reason other than a bad gauge. i'm stupid for not checking with another gauge, right??

go home and REINSTALL the motor yesterday. get er running, this time with no gauge, just idiot light. Light starts flashing on once car is warmed up and at idle. ok, maybe its the idiot light is screwed up too. Go buy a new autometer mechanical gauge and put it directly on oil port with pipe fittings.


Start it up again, pressure at 18psi cold idle. Warms up, drops below 10 again. rev it, we got 3500 RPMS and 21 lbs pressure MAX.

Alright, dunno now, so we call Crane to see if it could be a lifter problem or something. They say to try to tighten the lash down (which makes no sense, but it doesnt involve pulling the motor, so I try it). Start it up again. this time pulling 11 psi cold and revving pulling 11 psi.

PULL DISTRIBUTOR

run oil priming tool just for fun. Drill spins nice and free, max pressure 11 PSI

This means I have to pull the motor again!!!!!!!!!

AGAIN!!!!

and then reinstall it AGAIN!

I paid this guy $1100 cash to balance, machine, and assemble my engine. And it has no oil pressure and he screwed me by not finding the problem the first AND SECOND TIMES.

NOW I HAVE TO PULL IT AGAIN!!!! and then reinstall it AGAIN!!

plus something is probably majorly screwed up now.

Let me know what you think I should do

P.S. If i accidently wrote any foul words in this post, forgive me. i tried not to

Imagine how much better you'd feel if you'd pre-oiled the engine while it was sitting on the stand, or the floor.

yeah but notice how it got progressively worse. the original preoiling showed 43 lbs and smoked up the drill

Sorry to hear that man, but atleast you only paid him $1100. I know it's alot of money, but thats VERY cheap for balance, machine, and assemble of a performance engine.

I would take a long hard look at the oil pump pick up. Do it your self.

Check to see if it's tight, any cracks in the tube, and then check the clearance between the pickup and oil pan (needs to be 3/8" to 1/2") I like 7/16" to 1/2" myself

To check it measure from block rail with gasket in place to screen of pick up, then measure oil pan from bottom of sump to top of rail with gasket in place
- the smallest # from the largest and you got your clearance

Probs like yours is why I always try to talk people on message boards into building there own. You know how it was put together then, then if you have a prob you can only be mad at your self.

Oh yeah.. Also look in the oil pan/oil for metal. If a bearing messed up you'll know it by all the metal.

What type of oil pump? Some melling oil pumps have had some problems like your describing, one was posted here last year where the pump actually broke and fell into the pan. Another guy on the board had one crack and his oil psi slowly hit 0.

You can pull the pan with the engine in the car and check the rod/main bearings and oil pump before you go and rip the engine back out.

On the bright side atleast by now you are probably very good at removing and installing a SBC engine in a camaro.

Im no expert of any kind. But a few weeks ago I heard that there are plugs that get taken out when the block is machined and if they are not put back in oil pressure will suffer. I dont know where they are at but they said you cant install them when the motor is together.. so internally?
Man that sucks!! For you I wish it was just a bad guage

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by badazz81z28:
Im no expert of any kind. But a few weeks ago I heard that there are plugs that get taken out when the block is machined and if they are not put back in oil pressure will suffer. I dont know where they are at but they said you cant install them when the motor is together.. so internally?
Man that sucks!! For you I wish it was just a bad guage</font>

There is one at the rear top of the engine, and maybe even one under the rear main, that if they don't get installed tightly or even forgot, then you will have poor or no pressure.

Black,

I feel your pain.

I had the pleasure of assisting my brother in pulling and re-installing the engine in his '70 Boss 302 four times. The first time was to get the engine rebuilt. Fair enough. The other three times were to "fix" a rear main oil seal leak. Each time the engine was brought back to the guy that built it.

At least a 2gen has room under the hood and is one of the easiest cars to yank the engine. Ford went out of their way to make this job a true PITA on a '70 Mustang.

Good luck. This too shall pass.

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by 1978LT:
There is one at the rear top of the engine, and maybe even one under the rear main, that if they don't get installed tightly or even forgot, then you will have poor or no pressure.

</font>

The plug under the rear main cap if left out the oil is not filtered once the oil filter fills up the oil goes the path of least resistance. you might want to check the galley plugs in back of the top timming gear make sure one didn't blow out. Any engine we builld its always primed before leaving the shop and we never have a problem getting 60 to 70 pounds of oil pressure using a drill and when you were only getting 43 pounds with a drill that should of set a flag.

Let us know what you find out and good luck.

What kind of oil filter are you using and is your bypass plugged off on the oil filter adapter? Ran into this problem on the dyno before with a Fram filter.... bypass plugged off. Zero oil pressure. Took 3 engine tear downs to figure it out, finally switched the filter and had normal pressure.

[This message has been edited by Quick69 (edited January 07, 2005).]

I would think that a new oil filter would be part of the assembly process.

Last year I pulled the motor out of my 350 S-10.Changed the annoying gear drive and installed a low pressure oil pump.Cranked it up with nice pressure but within a few minutes it gets down to 0 at idle and about 10 at speed.Pulled it back out which involves pulling the front cap off the truck and taking apart those slip together headers and found that the 4 bolts on the bottom of the oil pump were only hand tight.

------------------
1978 Z-28 purchased new by me -$6750
Click here (http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/someonehasthisid/detail?.dir=/d752&.dnm=aefd.jpg) to view present state photo
Look above for glory days.
1994 Formula
1982 350 S-10

all the galley plugs are in place as per the last time i had it out. Also the oil pump looked fine, but I replaced it with a new one just in case. Same results. PIckup tube and clearance are fine as well.

The main thing is how it keeps getting worse and worse, which means something is dying as time goes on. Obviously i'm not starting it again..

This guy didnt align bore the mains, and with ARP studs that makes me very wary. I questioned him about it at the time, but he claimed he checked it out and it was unnecessary. I have a feeling this could be the problem, but I dunno?

The filter bypass is plugged and this is the 4th oil filter i have tried

AND yes I am pretty good at pulling the engine, even without a lift or air tools. Its just pissing me off that I have to keep doing it over and over. This is supposed to be fun. A few hours with the car on jackstands about 5" away from my face everyday isnt very fun anymore.

I hope he tells me he will fix it all for free, or at least give me a VERY fair deal. (This would include resurfacing my AFR heads and replacing all gaskets, because all that would have to come off due to machining, i'm sure- if it turns out that the problem is with the block/mains.)

If not, I gotta find another shop and then send him the bill.. or something/small claims court maybe

Trying to figure out what my most reasonable course of action should be right now

In the last 12 years we have had 2 engines come in the shop with the same problem and come to find out that they had spun a cam bearing and they were Clevite 1349 bearings, We ended up line boreing it and going to ACL bearings and seemed to work fine. Hope this is not your problem.

if it is a bad cam bearing, how much teardown would it take to repair?

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by onovakind67:
I would think that a new oil filter would be part of the assembly process. </font>


Alright Smarty. I meant the same TYPE.

Yeesh!

quick: I first used a NAPA gold filter, but now i'm just using the cheap Fram PH30, cuz I'm ending up pulling them after 10 minutes of running these days. when i know i got good pressure, and the engine is staying in for keeps-&gt; good filter time.

one more question: If the roller cam is walking ( i dont think it is, but will double check) could that destroy the cam bearings and cause this problem??

[This message has been edited by black73 (edited January 07, 2005).]

Don't feel too bad Dude, I've pulled the 427 in and out of my car 2 times so far.
I had the same senario as you when I put the 355 in my S10. Pulled the engine and checked a main cap and all was good. WTF! bad oil pressure sending unit.
The only thing I can complain about doing a pull on our cars is it takes 2 people to get the damn hood off.

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73RS/LT/427

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by ZS10:
The only thing I can complain about doing a pull on our cars is it takes 2 people to get the damn hood off.

</font>


LOL with the cherry picker I have, plus the angle of the driveway and all, I can yank my engine WITHOUT taking the hood off! Talk about luck! http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/biggrin.gif

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by black73:
quick: I first used a NAPA gold filter, but now i'm just using the cheap Fram PH30, cuz I'm ending up pulling them after 10 minutes of running these days. when i know i got good pressure, and the engine is staying in for keeps-&gt; good filter time.

one more question: If the roller cam is walking ( i dont think it is, but will double check) could that destroy the cam bearings and cause this problem??

[This message has been edited by black73 (edited January 07, 2005).]</font>

The Napa Gold filters are wix filters. Very nice filters... the best in my opinion.

A roller cam 'walking' will not destroy the bearings... by walking I'm assuming you're talking about something minimal, not something major. But walking WILL have an impact on your distributor gear, and the timing gear... and possibly the liftes depending on how much we're talking here.

IF the cam bearings are 'destroyed' there will be MAJOR evidence. You will see and smell burnt oil steaming out of the breathers or whatever you have for evacuation. You would have heard some form of grinding or screeching from the initial bearing failure(that's what metal does when it grinds against metal).

Further, have you cut open any of these filters? Any bearing failure will get trapped in the filter. It will be plain as day. Cut apart the filter and take the media apart. Make this a habit for any new engine you're firing up, successfully or not.

So if you do not see or smell burnt oil, and do not see anything in your filter, then you do not have burned up cam, main, or rod bearings... burned up bearings quickly tell you they are done... engine gets tight feeling in terms of response etc.... LOTS of signs...

Oil pressure is the LEAST of the signs.... and sometimes never changes with a bearing failure.

Oh yeah... CUT THE FILTER OPEN BEFORE YOU EVEN THINK ABOUT THIS ANYMORE.

[This message has been edited by Quick69 (edited January 07, 2005).]

You have no choice but to pull it out and tear it down yourself to find the problem.If you don't already have one be sure to install a cam button and myself I prefer nylon over the roller type.Less to fly apart.
I know how you feel but it'll haul ass when your done.

------------------
1978 Z-28 purchased new by me -$6750
Click here (http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/someonehasthisid/detail?.dir=/d752&.dnm=aefd.jpg) to view present state photo
Look above for glory days.
1994 Formula
1982 350 S-10

there is a cam button but i didnt install it personally, machinest wanted to do the cam install, so i let him.

felt pretty strong when i had it running yesterday briefly.. should be quick

I'll cut open that filter, but if I find no metal in it, then what? From what you describe, Quick, about bearing failures, I dont expect to find any. I havent seen any of those symptons. When I had the motor out last time when it was pulling 0 at idle and 50 on free rev, pulled a few caps and bearings were perfect at that time..

Gotta pull it apart again- just hoping to find a way to fix it without pulling off the heads

[This message has been edited by black73 (edited January 07, 2005).]

You have to tear the whole bottom end of the motor down to replace the cam bearings.

If the oiling system is in order I'd suspect a bad block, crack in it somewhere.

I'm willing to bet it is missing the exapansion plug in the oil gallery above the rear main cap....

I would do as Quick69 suggested and cut the filter FIRST.

Then,
I would drop the oil pan, remove the rear main cap, oil sender.

Shine a light down the oil sender hole, and if you can see it directly from the bottom, it is missing that plug....

It is a 1/2" plug IIRC, and is driven in from the main cap side.

That's where I would start.

If the plug is in place, I would pull the timign cover and check the gallery plugs..

Does it oil both sides of the top end with the valve covers off?

The cup plug above the #5 main cap only forces oil through the filter, if it isn't installed the pressure will be fine, just no filtered oil. That being said, rather than pulling the pan and rear main (for this inspection anyways) simply pull the oil pressure sender behind the intake and feed a piece of 1/8" rod such as gas welding rod (clean of course) down until it hits either that plug or the main cap. Mark the rod level with the block pad. Take that same rod and do the same check on a block with the plug installed correctly, if your mark lines up then your plug is installed, if your line is 3" above the block pad, that plug is not installed in your block.
While you're at it, try a master gauge directly in the block, just on the off chance your new mechanical gauge is toast or you had a pinched feed line.
Hope the fix is simple for you!

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Custom Auto, your source for quality machine work, cores and new parts at competetive pricing right here in British Columbia 1-888-563-4050
A Canadian, EH? (with a 10 second street car)

all the galley plugs were checked when i had the engine out the last time, including the one under (above) that main cap and the ones behind the timing gear. (According to the machinest, I just trusted him, although i did see the front three were there) Also, this is the 2nd mechanical gauge i've used, both showed the same reading- this one is an autometer gauge hooked directly to the oil port with a pipe fitting nipple and connector. No tubes, its a direct connection.

Both sides under valve covers have oil.

Its really a perplexing problem, hopefully by tomorrow afternoon, will find the solution. Any other things to look at are welcome. CRacked block, as Rick suggested, seems to be looming as a greater possibility

Messy, but you may want to drop the pan and rig up a hose going from the bottom of the pan to the pump, then prime the crap out of the engine. A big stream of oil leading from a particular area will point out where the problem lies. If I had to speculate, I'd be thinking excessive bearing clearances now.

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Custom Auto, your source for quality machine work, cores and new parts at competetive pricing right here in British Columbia 1-888-563-4050
A Canadian, EH? (with a 10 second street car)

Black73, I had a similar problem in a BBC in my drag boat. Oil @ 25lbs and dropped to 5lbs when revved. Before the problem I had 60 at idle. Pulled engine and pulled the pump, found a a bb sized chunk of iron in the oil bypass on the oil pump. removed and put everything back, back to 6olbs at idle.

I've had a kink in my plastic oil line to the gauge that initially had me very worried. Pressure showed just about what you are seeing. New line, new pressure.

I had a similar problem (if not the same) and it wasan improperly installed rear cam bearing. It simply wasn't in far enough, a person could see the edge of the bearing from the lifter valley. as in your case it showed good pressure on the dyno but got worse in a short (less that 500 miles) time. I started around 55 hot and at 3500 and went to a lazy 35. Gauge was pinned at 0 at idle. I pulled the motor and put a gauge on the port above the oil filter and saw great pressure but awful pressure behind the dist. when I spun it up with a drill. Needless to say my builder was also a hard head on the matter. Motor seems fine now but it leaksdown a little more that I would like. I'm going to give it some more time to break in before I freak out.
Basically I think it is in your cam bearings.

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">If I had to speculate, I'd be thinking excessive bearing clearances now.

[/B]</font>
I was thinking that also. Not the best way to check but couldn't he take some plastigauge on the bottom end of the car prior to following the path of ripping out the motor again? But if you need to remove the oil pan completely I guess you may as well pull and just do it right.

update: got motor out and back to machinest. he's got it all pulled apart and still cant find anything out of order. Checked pretty much everything you guys have mentioned, can't find anything at all. Can any experienced engine builders list some strange possibilities to look into? Anything, I dont have any ideas and neither does this guy...

It has to be a berring clearance, crank, oil pump problem i would think? Has he mic'd everything?

Stuck oil pump bypass, a blockage, a leak between the pump and main cap or between the main cap (#5) and the block, faulty pump, excessive clearance such as .003 rods and mains, excessive rod side clearance, oversize lifter bores, rear cam bearing not installed rearward enough, excessive cam bearing clearance coupled with the cam bearing oil holes facing the intake rather than the oil pan, .....
As I suggested prior, pressurize the oil system to find the problem.

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Custom Auto, your source for quality machine work, cores and new parts at competetive pricing right here in British Columbia 1-888-563-4050
A Canadian, EH? (with a 10 second street car)

I have an oil pump bypass block off in my block?

how much rod side clearance is acceptable?

Generally .012" to .020" is acceptable, if you have stock rods and more than that (SBC's tend to be tighter rather than looser from the factory) then I would be suprized. Is he actually plastigaging all the bearing clearances or is he telling you "they're good"?

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Custom Auto, your source for quality machine work, cores and new parts at competetive pricing right here in British Columbia 1-888-563-4050
A Canadian, EH? (with a 10 second street car)

Rust-he just told me he had "checked them" and they were fine, I didnt see him do anything and he didnt say anything for numbers. I will press him on it tomorrow. He's getting pretty frustrated I think.

There were visible gaps between the rods and you could move them side to side- I dont know how much though, I will check it out tomorrow along with that rear cam bearing and all your other suggestions. He refused to pressurize the system per your idea since there are "leaks everywhere" and it would "make a huge mess" and we "wouldnt find anything that way"

Tomorrow morning I'm headed down to check it out. Thanks for your help, I really appreciate your advice

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by Mwilson:
I have an oil pump bypass block off in my block?</font>


I think he's refering to the 'pump' bypass. Which, could be the cause of this.

Did he tear the pump apart and check the piston in the bypass??? I have seem them sticky.

The SBC oiling system is relatively simple. Bottom line is that he's either done something wrong, or something is broke. If he's the builder it's his problem.

oil fiter clogged, oil filter bypass clogged, bad spring on the pump, excessive bearing clearances, oil gallery leak.

He's right about pressurizing the oiling system being messy but if he hasn't found the problem then where do you stand? No doubt your just as angry about re and reing the engine, you just want to drive the car.

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Custom Auto, your source for quality machine work, cores and new parts at competetive pricing right here in British Columbia 1-888-563-4050
A Canadian, EH? (with a 10 second street car)

I didn't read back to the beginning in detail but I thought I rememebered you changing the oil pump already on the last teardown? I can't remember. If so it might be unusual to have two bypasses stick like that. If not worth checking cause it's cheap and fast to do.

If all clearances are fine and motor is assembled correctly I'd suspect a bad block, re: crack in it somewhere. Sometimes on teardown if you inspect things closely you will see signs of minor water leakage where there shouldn't be. That would be a tell tale sign. Since everything else appears normal there is only one option I'd pursue at this time and that would be to have the block checked for cracks.

Most important was what CNC said earlier. Prior to leaving your machinist, when primed, it should easily have 60-70 PSI with the drill. That is exactly what we look for when we prime a motor prior to leaving the shop with 10-30 break in oil in the crankcase.

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70 SS 454 CI Dynoed 684 HP, 702 TQ All Aluminium Fuel Injected Small Block , plus 200 - 500 HP NX nitrous system.

latest: I went down to the shop and he had the cam bearing tool in his hand, but quickly set it aside and mentioned nothing of it. (haha)

Then he told me he changed to a different oil filter adapter, different HV HP oil pump with a different pickup (even though I had given him that $50 one made specially for the milodon pan- if I suck the pan dry because its not deep enough not my fault now)

He also "discovered" that my pushrods were too short, and said I was probably "losing a lot of oil pressure" because of it. With the retro hyd. roller you have those really short pushrods, so I had to order up some .150" longer ones. It was obvious they were too short- but would that have any effect at all on oil pressure? especially when the motor is just sitting there being primed by a drill? All the lifter's oil hole was below the intake valley floor.

Tomorrow when I get the pushrods we're planning to run the priming tool again. Figure with that high pressure high volume pump and cold oil, heck, I should see 80 lbs??

You need a different pickup with a HV pump because the pump body is longer.
I don't see how pushrods could affect oil pressure, your lifters do the metering internally. I hope the big pump isn't to cover up loose bearings.

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Custom Auto, your source for quality machine work, cores and new parts at competetive pricing right here in British Columbia 1-888-563-4050
A Canadian, EH? (with a 10 second street car)

I'd second what Rust is saying.

No engine in the world needs a HV pump at idle, unless it's dead. HV won't do anything differently at idle but it will bypass and heat more oil while driving.

The pushrod comment blows me away. This guy is taking you for a ride my friend.

He don't know what he's doing I'm sorry to say.

[This message has been edited by Quick69 (edited January 10, 2005).]

Find out what your rod and main clearances, then adjust them as required. .0015 to .002 rods, .002 to .0025 mains is lots.

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Custom Auto, your source for quality machine work, cores and new parts at competetive pricing right here in British Columbia 1-888-563-4050
A Canadian, EH? (with a 10 second street car)

how do you adjust clearances?

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by black73:
how do you adjust clearances?</font>

If it's only a small amount, Speed Pro and the likes sell their bearings in - numbers for adjusting out small amounts like .001, .0005, etc. Rust knows more about this than I do.

Use the M55A pump. The high volume one is a waste of money. The M55A is the same body as the M55 (standard volume) pump. Listen to these guys, your "engine builder" is yanking ya...........

I'll third the "he's yanking you" sentiment. Pushrods affecting oil pressure?? Come on!

black73-

Do me and yourself a favor. UNPLUG THAT DAMNED OIL FILTER BYPASS VALVE. At least for a quick test. There's only one way oil pressure drops steadily over a period of time without physical engine damage being done. That's a plugged up filter. And without a functional bypass you get NADA to the engine.

ALL OIL GAGUE TAP-IN LOCATIONS ON A SBC ARE AFTER THE FILTER. Think about it.

In short, there's a reason it's there. You NEED to do this diagnostic test, if for no other reason than your sanity. You don't even have to run it that way. Just prime it with the drill and see if oil pressure returns.

If it makes no difference you've got engine damage or a screwy oil pump.

Already got most of these basis covered- got a new/different oil filter adapter bolted on with the bypass unplugged. Since I didnt have to buy this pump, I dont care about the cost- I know its overkill and probably a bandaid.

Got a new AC Delco filter for it, cost around $10 so its a pretty good filter I hope..


I know the filter wasnt clogged either because it was the third filter in about 40 minutes of running time total. This included a NAPA filter for a while as mentioned above, then I used two FRAM filters because i got tired of wasting money on oil and filters when it wasnt making any difference. PLugged filter was my first instinct as well.

We're doing the test this afternoon. I'll post back every detail then... if there isnt pressure- then I'm considering just taking the engine and either checking the clearances myself and correcting them or taking to a very expensive race motor shop in Albuquerque and having this guy foot the bill for my trouble.

Shame one of us members doesn't live closer. I'd love to help!

Sorry to not finish off my post. Federal Mogul sells their race bearings in .001x, std,.001,.009,.010,.011,etc. Say your crank was bottom size .010/.010, you could use .011 bearings to bring the clearance back up to top size specs. (reduce your oil clearance by .001)
Rod bearing part number is 8-7100CH
Main bearing part number is 140M (400 journal)

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Custom Auto, your source for quality machine work, cores and new parts at competetive pricing right here in British Columbia 1-888-563-4050
A Canadian, EH? (with a 10 second street car)

If your testing doesn't show improvement tell the builder to install .200 longer pushrods to get the pressure up. Given short ones cause low pressure long ones nmust raise pressure I suspect?

Still scratchin my head trying to figure that one out.

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70 SS 454 CI Dynoed 684 HP, 702 TQ All Aluminium Fuel Injected Small Block , plus 200 - 500 HP NX nitrous system.

yeah, i really wish I could have had rust or any other engine builder on here close by to do business with. Now that I think about it, it wouldve been worth the shipping cost!!!

Well stupid speed shop i ordered the pushrods from only got 1 pushrod in on their truck, so I have to wait until tomorrow to get 15 more. Then I'll get to find out if those new pushrods can hold some good oil pressure.

Unfortunately for me, this was my Christmas break project and its gone pretty badly. I have to head back to school on the 17th, Monday, and thats when my time to work on this stuff is over until May.

With the oil filter bypass pluged the only filter that will work is the 1061 NAPA gold and the Fram filter don't have a enough fiter paper to pass the reqired oil through. I know because we have had customers in the past complain there oil pressure has dropped and its always because of a cheap filter a NAPA filter has always cured the problem. GOOD LUCK

I feel for you trying to sort this out. I made the mistake of thinking that my builder cared about me because I enjoy automobiles and I respected his involvement with the hobby.(and he acted like I was a friend) After some time I found that he cared very little about me when I wasn't handing him money.
Unfortunately 80-90% of the folks doing this type of work be it body, engine, or suspension seem to feel the same way.
Hang in there and make it right! No point in trying to salvage a relationship that is worthless to you. If it turns out it isn't his fault you can always pay him for his time.

Black 73

Are you dealing with a performance machine shop or a shop that just builds stock type engines. Seems that a performance engine shop would have used the right push rods the first time.

With my bypass blocked should i be running a special filter? I run WIX

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267 4spd,5.13,272@50/.623 cam 7.59 @ 89 mph Daily Driver

final update:

went down the machine shop today and he had it all put back together with the priming tool sitting in there. I went over and zapped the drill and the gauge went straight to 75 lbs pressure.

Took motor home, installed it in the car, fired it up and got 75 psi cold which eventually dropped down to a steady 20-22 lbs hot, and when rev motor, when up to 60+ hot.

i dont think 20 lbs hot is high enough for a high pressure high volume pump, so maybe there is a sloppy clearance in there. but the major problem is "fixed" I suppose..

He still said he thinks it was those pushrods that were the culprit, but whatever... he also mentioned he had done a little work with the cam bearings. I'm willing to bet most of the problem was there.

this was done with 10w-30 oil btw. I usually run 10-40 so that will increase my pressure to probably 25 hot idle, which is acceptable.

Thanks to everyone for your help on this oil pressure problem, i appreciate it

Sounds like the worst is behind you now. Glad to be of help, hope all works well for years to come.

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Custom Auto, your source for quality machine work, cores and new parts at competetive pricing right here in British Columbia 1-888-563-4050
A Canadian, EH? (with a 10 second street car)

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by black73:
final update:

Took motor home, installed it in the car, fired it up and got 75 psi cold which eventually dropped down to a steady 20-22 lbs hot, and when rev motor, when up to 60+ hot.

i dont think 20 lbs hot is high enough for a high pressure high volume pump, so maybe there is a sloppy clearance in there. but the major problem is "fixed" I suppose..

this was done with 10w-30 oil btw. I usually run 10-40 so that will increase my pressure to probably 25 hot idle, which is acceptable.
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That looks fine. The high-pressure pump in my 413 small block with the Z/28 spring hits 60 psi cold, 50-55 psi hot cruise, and 22 psi hot at idle with 10W30.

You really don't need much more than that.



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'Silver Bullet' 1977 Z-28 413" SB
11.73 @ 115.10 on drag radials
Old Vortec combo:
12.15 @ 110.52

My hunch is that, the first time the builder built the engine, he took a shortcut. He was hoping that it would save him time and money. This is why he was getting mad when you kept bringing it back in. Also, how you said he would not give you details, or put the cam tool down and not talk about it when you come in. He was probably replacing a bearing or something he skimped on. Good luck, hopefully all is well now http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/smile.gif

20 LBS OF oil psi if thats hot at ideal in park at 950 rpms thats right on in book in drive hot should be about 15 to 17 psi at 700 rpms on cold start in park 60+is great eddie

Mine cruises at 50 hot, 75 cold at idle, 25 hot at idle

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1972 camaro street car
smallblock, fun to drive

well thats some good news. thanks.. still trying to work out all the little timing and carb issues, but getting close. Fun stuff, lol.