Anyone know how long a fuel pump push rod with a bronze tip *roller cam* will last?

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72 RS, ZZ383- 770 Holley, HVH carbspacer and RPM Airgap manifold, flowmaster american thunder system modified with two 40 series mufflers, pro-billet distributer,6AL box, msd super conducter plug wires, powermaster 140 amp alternator and March serpantine conversion.

!!!Piss on C.A.R.B.!!!

[This message has been edited by Badkarma (edited January 07, 2005).]

Good question! A mechanical fuel pump isn't too terribly hard to work, so hard bronze is tough enough to last a long while I would think.

Stock ones last about a trillion years. So I would think the broze tipped type would only last a few million years.

I have never used one but I suspect that it will outlive you. Or at least the rest of the engine.

reminds me of a small article Car Craft did a couple years ago. Is there any HP increase with an electric fuel pump? First they used a stock pump with stock pushrod to get a base #. Then they used a lightened aftermarket pushrod from Moroso or ARP, then an electric pump. No HP increase whatsoever.

I would get a length measurement when the rod is new then remove the rod and remeasure it after the first season, that will give you a good idea of it's life span. A high volume 6 valve pump will wear the rod faster than a stock pump.

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Custom Auto, your source for quality machine work, cores and new parts at competetive pricing right here in British Columbia 1-888-563-4050
A Canadian, EH? (with a 10 second street car)

I ran one with a billet roller cam and Carter 172 pump for about 2,000 miles. After 2k I switched to an electric pump -- when I pulled the pushrod it looked good but had some noticeable wear marks on it. If I had to guess I'd say mine would have lasted for about 20k miles . . . but that is just a guess.

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Mid 11's on pump gas, all motor . . . and no trailer.

Thanks for the info guys.Was just one of those silly things that popped into my head lol.

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72 RS, ZZ383- 770 Holley, HVH carbspacer and RPM Airgap manifold, flowmaster american thunder system modified with two 40 series mufflers, pro-billet distributer,6AL box, msd super conducter plug wires, powermaster 140 amp alternator and March serpantine conversion.

!!!Piss on C.A.R.B.!!!

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by engine:
reminds me of a small article Car Craft did a couple years ago. Is there any HP increase with an electric fuel pump? First they used a stock pump with stock pushrod to get a base #. Then they used a lightened aftermarket pushrod from Moroso or ARP, then an electric pump. No HP increase whatsoever.</font>


We've had cars on the chassis dyno using 5/16 line and stock pumps making nearly 525 rear wheel ponies. As long as the fuel system isn't subject to any external forces, like acceleration, cornering and stopping, it's pretty easy to keep fuel in the bowls for a short period of time.

I bought one from Comp Cams to run with my roller cam. Signicant wear at 3000 miles. Worn so bad it effected fuel preasure at high RPM under load, which limited RPM to about 5200, then motor fell on its face. Would recommend replacing after 2500 miles if you use one.

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by jrc:
I bought one from Comp Cams to run with my roller cam. Signicant wear at 3000 miles. Worn so bad it effected fuel preasure at high RPM under load, which limited RPM to about 5200, then motor fell on its face. Would recommend replacing after 2500 miles if you use one.</font>

Now that is usefull information,cause I got mine from comp also. I'll grab a replacement incase when I do ceck it I have to switch it. Anyone have any suggestions on a replacement?

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72 RS, ZZ383- 770 Holley, HVH carbspacer and RPM Airgap manifold, flowmaster american thunder system modified with two 40 series mufflers, pro-billet distributer,6AL box, msd super conducter plug wires, powermaster 140 amp alternator and March serpantine conversion.

!!!Piss on C.A.R.B.!!!

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by onovakind67:

We've had cars on the chassis dyno using 5/16 line and stock pumps making nearly 525 rear wheel ponies. As long as the fuel system isn't subject to any external forces, like acceleration, cornering and stopping, it's pretty easy to keep fuel in the bowls for a short period of time.

</font>

I think he was refering to the parasitic HP
loss of a stock mechanical pump rod vs an aftermarket mechanical pump rod vs an electric pump.

What about the roller tip fuel pump pushrods? Would that be worth the investment?

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by 1978LT:
What about the roller tip fuel pump pushrods? Would that be worth the investment?</font>

was actually thinking of the roller tiped one. Would it last any longer? My main concer is how durable and how long it will last in daily street duty.

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72 RS, ZZ383- 770 Holley, HVH carbspacer and RPM Airgap manifold, flowmaster american thunder system modified with two 40 series mufflers, pro-billet distributer,6AL box, msd super conducter plug wires, powermaster 140 amp alternator and March serpantine conversion.

!!!Piss on C.A.R.B.!!!

Anyone?

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72 RS, ZZ383- 770 Holley, HVH carbspacer and RPM Airgap manifold, flowmaster american thunder system modified with two 40 series mufflers, pro-billet distributer,6AL box, msd super conducter plug wires, powermaster 140 amp alternator and March serpantine conversion.

!!!Piss on C.A.R.B.!!!

Sounds like trouble to me . . . what keeps the roller from getting sideways and sliding?

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Mid 11's on pump gas, all motor . . . and no trailer.

I think they use a bolt in one of the holes in the front of the block that intesects the fuel pump push rod hole. The bolt is tight enough to hold the push rod stright and loose enough to let it slide. There should be plenty of oil on the camshaft to keep a roller alive.

Isnt it kinda like a ball point pen roller?

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72 RS, ZZ383- 770 Holley, HVH carbspacer and RPM Airgap manifold, flowmaster american thunder system modified with two 40 series mufflers, pro-billet distributer,6AL box, msd super conducter plug wires, powermaster 140 amp alternator and March serpantine conversion.

!!!Piss on C.A.R.B.!!!

http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0307_roller_9_z.jpg

It looks like this.

[This message has been edited by onovakind67 (edited January 07, 2005).]

So I wasn't EXACTLY correct but I had the basic idea.

OK thats kinda scary lookin. That actually works?? think it would hold up?

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72 RS, ZZ383- 770 Holley, HVH carbspacer and RPM Airgap manifold, flowmaster american thunder system modified with two 40 series mufflers, pro-billet distributer,6AL box, msd super conducter plug wires, powermaster 140 amp alternator and March serpantine conversion.

!!!Piss on C.A.R.B.!!!

They work excellent

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70 SS 454 CI Dynoed 684 HP, 702 TQ All Aluminium Fuel Injected Small Block , plus 200 - 500 HP NX nitrous system.

got a part number?? Im gonna check it on ours and see how much it has worn. Hope its not to bad but..... you know how that goes. Just dont want to be changeing broze tiped pushrods all the time, real pita on a daily driver.

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72 RS, ZZ383- 770 Holley, HVH carbspacer and RPM Airgap manifold, flowmaster american thunder system modified with two 40 series mufflers, pro-billet distributer,6AL box, msd super conducter plug wires, powermaster 140 amp alternator and March serpantine conversion.

!!!Piss on C.A.R.B.!!!

[This message has been edited by Badkarma (edited January 07, 2005).]

Comp Cams # 4609 - about $108 at Summit and Jegs.
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=esearch.asp&N=100&Ntk=PartSearch&Ntt=cca-4609&x=0&y=0

Seriously, a bronze-tipped pushrod needs replacing every 3000 miles? Really? I'd love to hear more than just one person's experience on that. Sounds too horrible to make them worth using (or manufacturing). I'd like to know why a cam company would recommend using one if it was going to wear down to a nub in 3K miles, throwing metal shavings into the motor the whole way. I just find it kinda hard to believe they can be that bad.

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by Damon:
Seriously, a bronze-tipped pushrod needs replacing every 3000 miles? Really? I'd love to hear more than just one person's experience on that. Sounds too horrible to make them worth using (or manufacturing). I'd like to know why a cam company would recommend using one if it was going to wear down to a nub in 3K miles, throwing metal shavings into the motor the whole way. I just find it kinda hard to believe they can be that bad.

</font>


Depends on the pump. Naturally, a stock pump will have less pressure on the lobe than a high pressure 6 valve pump.

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Custom Auto, your source for quality machine work, cores and new parts at competetive pricing right here in British Columbia 1-888-563-4050
A Canadian, EH? (with a 10 second street car)

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by onovakind67:
Comp Cams # 4609 - about $108 at Summit and Jegs.
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=esearch.asp&N=100&Ntk=P artSearch&Ntt=cca-4609&x=0&y=0 (http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=esearch.asp&N=100&Ntk=PartSearch&Ntt=cca-4609&x=0&y=0)</font>

So do I'm just gonna come out and say it, will this hold up to daily duty year round driving? *using a holley 110 gallon pump*

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72 RS, ZZ383- 770 Holley, HVH carbspacer and RPM Airgap manifold, flowmaster american thunder system modified with two 40 series mufflers, pro-billet distributer,6AL box, msd super conducter plug wires, powermaster 140 amp alternator and March serpantine conversion.

!!!Piss on C.A.R.B.!!!

[This message has been edited by Badkarma (edited January 08, 2005).]

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by Badkarma:
So do I'm just gonna come out and say it, will this hold up to daily duty year round driving? *using a holley 110 gallon pump*

</font>

Well, I'd say if a roller lifter can last for eternity with 300+ lbs./in. over the nose, then that roller tip rod should hold up just fine, even with a high output pump. I wouldn't hesitate at all to use one in my engine http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/biggrin.gif.

Yeah, that's kind of neat looking . . . thanks for the pic. http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/smile.gif

I will bet a dollar to a donut hole that if you could buy a Silicon Bronze/Herculoy type metal tipped fuel pump pushrod, that it would last a heck of a long time!!

pdq67

I just installed a Comp Cams bronze-tipped rod in my new solid roller motor. I will pull it at 2500 miles, measure it, and post the results.

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70 Z28
397 sb
6 speed

Bronze is a softer metal. To approach it from a different persective, I bought a couple of bronze wheels for my Dremel this weekend, to use with cleaning up some old Q-Jets. Works great, doesn't mar the carb bodies, because the bronze on the brushes will give way before the metal in the carbs do. And, we know that carbs aren't even made of a really stout metal to start with.....

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