View Full Version : Bought an 8pt cage & have install Q's


70 Z UC
01-04-2005, 01:05:00 AM
I bought an 8pt cage PN#7002-01 from Chris Alstons Chassis Works. Went to install it, and it looks as if it mounts on the rocker panel instead of on the floor. Is this the correct mounting area? If so the 6"x6" plates need alot of fabrication to them, and the hoop will not be centered on the plate.

Should I put the head liner in before or can I still get to it after?

Tig or Mig, I have both. The tig is a Heliarc 110V. and the Mig is a Miller 110V with tri mix gas, or I can go Flux core.

Thanks Guys/Gals!



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rustbucket79
01-04-2005, 01:25:00 AM
<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by 70 Z UC:
I bought an 8pt cage PN#7002-01 from Chris Alstons Chassis Works. Went to install it, and it looks as if it mounts on the rocker panel instead of on the floor. Is this the correct mounting area? If so the 6"x6" plates need alot of fabrication to them, and the hoop will not be centered on the plate.

--&gt; Yes it mounts on the rocker sills, remove the plastic side panels first. Right or wrong (NHRA doesn't specify) my main hoop is nowhere near centered on the plates. I just welded the plates where it sits decently flat, then welded the main hoop to the plates.

Should I put the head liner in before or can I still get to it after?

--&gt;If you pull the windshield you can get the headliner in afterwards, otherwise shield it from your welding.

Tig or Mig, I have both. The tig is a Heliarc 110V. and the Mig is a Miller 110V with tri mix gas, or I can go Flux core.

--&gt;Both processes are legal. (though I don't think the flux core is) We used the mig welder to install it then went over the visible welds with the tig to beautify the welds. Get someone who knows how to weld properly (I didn't, was kind of forced into letting this bananahead weld it for me, his shop etc.) as a poor weld job looks like shyte and is potentialy dangerous. I also learned too late (again, brainless person welding, having difficulty) that the tubes need to be sanded wherever you plan to weld to remove any crap that can contaminate the weld.

Thanks Guys/Gals!

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night rider
01-04-2005, 01:31:00 AM
Mig or tig only, no flux core, or arc stick

hoop goes close to rocker panels. Heat and beat the 6"x6" plates to shape.

Go by the NHRA rule book. If you want it to be legal there's alot of little things like bar placement, etc I replyed in the comp/race form a few days ago with all the rules for putting in a cage.

Cover headlinder, all glass, etc
scrape up all tar stuff on floor with in atleast a 10"x10" square where the plates weld down. Grind lighty over floor before welding, wire brush with a drill/ or grind with die grinder all bars to be welded before welding.

DO NOT GRIND WELDS AFTER WELDING. It wont be race legal if you do

yody
01-04-2005, 03:34:00 PM
I don't know if I would trust a welded roll bar with anything 110v. OUt of the two I would find out which is stronger, I am thinking the TIG woudl be the way to go. ALso they do weld to the rockers and you do have to bend the metal plates to conform and notch the tube so it fits to the plate

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70 Z UC
01-04-2005, 07:38:00 PM
Thanks guys! The welding/fabing is not the hard part. Im stuck doing it all day long http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/wink.gif

Yody- 110V. is plenty for roll bar thickness as long as you have sufficent amps & duty cycle. neither welder is a $300 K-mart special, they were around $1,800 each.