hello guys,

Over the past two months a friend and I put a LT1 engine from a Fleetwood (1996 OBDII) into a 78 camaro. Every thing went fine. We got most of the wiring and fuel system. When the time came to start the car. The car would not start. The fuel pump primes, there is the check engine light, the engine turns over but would not start. SO we checked for any sparks ...there was no sparks from the plugs. So checked if the coil was connected and it was . Checked the optispark and it looks connected. We ruled the opti out beacuse even a bad opti would make some fire..thats what we thought.So now we are stuck. It looks like we have left out some thing basic? The engine does not make any mechanical noise etc. Only thing was that only one o2 sensor was connected and the other was not..is this the problem?

The LT! engine had 40,000 miles, the computer was programmed at PCMforless and VATS was taken out.

thanks a lot in advance
sudeep

Are you certain the VATS was in fact removed?

If they neglected to do that, it would create the symptoms your observing.

Painless Wiring has VATS bypass modules just in case. Otherwise, maybe send the ECM back and have the guys verify the VATS is in fact disabled.

P.S. A disconnected O2 sensor will not cause this problem.

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And I would still look at the Opti, especially if the engine was steam cleaned. When they go out there will be no spark at all.

Jody

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thanks guys...u guys are better than the lt1 tech forum. they never replyed. But i talked to the guy who did the programming Bryan, he told me he removed the vats out...and suggested it might be the optispark...

my question is is there a way to test if it has gone bad? i will check at camaroz28 and lt1tech. But please let me know what u think

thanks
sudeep

O2 sensor won't cause a no start problem cause the first little bit of run time is open loop.

You can test for power at the ign module (usually located on the left cylinder head) if you have power then remove it and run down to your local autoparts store, most have an ign. module tester and will check your ign. module for free. If it checks out good then the opti-junk is bad. You can test the opti-junk but you need a graphing DVOM to test the hi and low res signals coming from the shutter vains but like I said if you have power to the module and it tests good then you can assume the opti-spark is bad by process of elimanition.

If any and I mean any water came in contact with the opti-spark then it is most likey damaged.

joekool

may be the opti is what is bad..beacuse the engine was got from a wrecked LT1 and the guys told me that the rediator was bad and broken. i never saw this as i bought it on ebay. But as u know that the opticrap is just behind the radiator and below the water pump may be this is gone bad. One more thing is that we thing that the battery may have exploded as we can find some acid in few places...

but i will do what u suggested and keep u guys posted.

thanks a lot
sudeep

That engine has all 'plugs' with unique shapes, so you can'ty screw it up. Same with the opti shaft and all as far as timing.

SO...unless you forgot to hook something up battery wise, or have absolutely NO ground, then I'd have to vote on a bad opti as well.

Do the easy and recheck that electrical system.....that's easier than pulling the opti.... http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/wink.gif

rscamaro

took some six days to figure it out and the guy who did help me had done the same setup in a 67 firebird. Every thing as far the electrical stuff was checked at each step. We asked few other people and no one had a clue ...the guy who helped gave is in utter frustration. I will go back and try checking a few things out.

always the tough problems have easy solutions..so i hope i dont have to deal any thing with the opti and just some simple stuff...i am just hoping for the best


some was telling me if the if the injector fuse was not put in ..so i have to go check that...