I purchased some to use inside a set of valve covers for my 383. I decided to use it on the timing area and lifter valley of the block. I put it on with a brush. It tooks two coats to cover. You have to wait overnight to do the second coat. This stuff kinda reminds me of painting with oil base paint in the sun using a brush. Once you brush it onto the block you only have about a minute or so before you move onto the next area or the brush starts to stick. I used Q-tips with thinner to clean out the lifter / pushrod bores.

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/6726/383glyptaljpgdr4.jpg
Shot with DiMAGE Z10 (http://profile.imageshack.us/camerabuy.php?model=DiMAGE+Z10&make=KONICA+MINOLTA) at 2007-08-24

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/4870/383glyptal1jpgvv8.jpg
Shot with DiMAGE Z10 (http://profile.imageshack.us/camerabuy.php?model=DiMAGE+Z10&make=KONICA+MINOLTA) at 2007-08-24

Hopefully I can get the outside of the block painted next week. I'm going to use Plasticote chevy orange in a spray bomb. I was thinking about putting down a few light coats of engine primer down before I put the color on. The primer can is not real clear when you can apply a topcoat. What do you guys usually do? Thanks, Russ

Lots of engine builders quit painting / coating the inside of the block because the paint would eventually crack, crumble and end up in the oil (and bearings) Glyptal was one of the better epoxy paints of 'the day', but now hard to find and like I said,, these days with oil formulated for cold / hot flow the way it is,, deemed to be not worth the trouble over the long haul.
I'm not saying it's a bad idea, just be sure and check what is in the filter at oil changes. If it starts letting go, it's bound to end up embedded in the bearings.

glyptal is an enamal made for motor windings. a lot of motor builders I know still use it. The thought is it helps with oil drain back and holds any loose sand from coming loose and flowing through the oil.

dj