I think I may have screwed up on this motor. It has NO bottom end. Power comes on at 3500+. Will a cam change help or do I need to start over ?
383, 6 inch. Bottom end is great..Eagle 6" H beam,Eagle Steel crank, Splayed caps, SRP flat tops, 10-1 Comp.,Pro Action 22o cast iron heads 23 degree, angle plug, Victor Jr. 750 Vac second.,hooker super comps, Solid roller, comp cams part # 12-769-8 (230/236 @.050 w 110 lobe seperation)
Gears are 3.90 with a th400.
Id like MORE off the line

i think those 220 heads are a bit big for that motor.

those pistons 10:1 compression is rated with a 58 cc head so i think you have to big of a head on there whats your cc size?

The srp flat top 383 pistons have -5cc valve reliefs, a 70cc head will get him 9.91:1 compression even with a standard 0.025" deck. That cam should have plenty of lowend grunt but is going to want at least a 2200-2500 stall convertor. I agree the Vic Jr and the 220cc ports are hurting the low end, but more gear and more convertor would wake things up nicely. I don't see less cam as being the cure.

How is your spark advance setup? You should be all in with your mechanical at about 3000 RPM. I'd say you would be in the 36 degree range for total. Initial should be around 10-12 and start coming in right at 1000. I also assume you are running vac advance? If not you should be.

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70 SS 454 CI Dynoed 684 HP, 702 TQ All Aluminium Fuel Injected Small Block , plus 200 - 500 HP NX nitrous system.

The cam is not that big
what stall you runing?
Are you sure the timing chain isnt off a tooth if its that bad?(ive done it)
383ci should swallow that cam on up!
What is your total timing set at with vac adv disconnected?and at what RPM

[This message has been edited by Mwilson (edited December 19, 2004).]

[This message has been edited by Mwilson (edited December 19, 2004).]

When I first read this post it scared me. I'm re-doing my engine this winter based around a set of the same Pro Action 220cc heads. My cam is a Comp 282S(236 at .050 & .495 lift/.528 lift with the 1.6 rockers I bought)
My engine is a 355 with 4 valve reliefs pistons so I'm going to use the .019 shim head gaskets combined with the 64cc chambers & I should be about 10.6:1.
I bought a 10" TCS Bracket Master converter which should stall at 3000-3300(I hope) in my 3150lb car(with me in it). I'm going to be using the same Vic Jr intake but a 750 Edelbrock carb & 3.73 gears.

Should this setup work OK?

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by gregh:
Pro Action 220cc heads

My engine is a 355 </font>


I think you have way too much cylinder head especially if the car is mostly street.

Very little street use, mostly a Friday Night Street Legal Drag car & the occasional weekend bracket racing.

insert 10in. converter- spin tires,insert 8in. Cobra converter, blow tires off rims

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1978 Z-28 purchased new by me -$6750
Click here (http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/someonehasthisid/detail?.dir=/d752&.dnm=aefd.jpg) to view present state photo
Look above for glory days.
1994 Formula
1982 350 S-10

Can you translate that into english for me?
Are you saying I won't get traction with a 10"? I'm planning on running the MT drag radials, most people I know who are using them are getting equal or better performance than ET streets.

Some big intake runner heads for such 'mild' engines

Most performance built 355's won't like no more than 180 cc runners for street use or maybe 190 cc for weekend fun/race.

Most 383's go up 15 cc's

a 230/236 cam aint that big in a 10:1 383.

Being you done have the heads, and heads are $$, I say swap that vic JR single plane for a performer RPM dual plane. It will give you back alittle of your low rpm torque.


But like Rick said, check your timing 1st, and get it dailed in right

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by gregh:
When I first read this post it scared me. I'm re-doing my engine this winter based around a set of the same Pro Action 220cc heads. My cam is a Comp 282S(236 at .050 & .495 lift/.528 lift with the 1.6 rockers I bought)
My engine is a 355 with 4 valve reliefs pistons so I'm going to use the .019 shim head gaskets combined with the 64cc chambers & I should be about 10.6:1.
I bought a 10" TCS Bracket Master converter which should stall at 3000-3300(I hope) in my 3150lb car(with me in it). I'm going to be using the same Vic Jr intake but a 750 Edelbrock carb & 3.73 gears.

Should this setup work OK?</font>

That combo looks like it will scream with a big solid roller and matching HIGH stall converter. Since it's basically a drag car, why not? Not familiar with the heads but I bet your leaving alot on the table by using the little 282S. Theres probably some big flow numbers up around .600 to .700 lift.

That Vac secondary have a stock spring in it?

Block was decked to get the 10-1
Carb is "box" stock...
Timing is set at 30 total right now. (can I really get away with 36 on pump gas ?)
After Christmas I wave a day set aside at a local dyno to "tune it out" as best we can.
Stall is at 2200, rear is 3.90 so it gets to 3500 without any trouble.
I bought these motor pieces as a "package" from a guy that needed cash. It was all new and never assembled. I was leary of the heads because of their size.
Maybe drop down on size with some AFR's ?

30 degrees total is way too low. I would hope you can get away with 36 - 38 total.

[This message has been edited by Rick WI (edited December 20, 2004).]

I run similar setup... 383, 6 inch, 10.0:1, Dart 215cc Pro1's... On motor alone, it's definitely not a torque monster... But I've got a nitrous grind solid roller cam, and on the squeeze, it really comes to life...

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Brant
2nd Gen Camaro
10.41@132.3
Need Nitrous????
http://www.rocketworldracing.com

Flow #'s on these heads. I've heard from a few users of Pro Toplines that they usually flow 5% or so less than the printed specs. I'm going to do a quick clean up of the ports, the casting flash is surprisingly quite bad, mostly on the intake side.

I hope you don't mind me piggy backing on your thread dcs13, our engine are going to be similar enough, I figured it didn't make sense to start another thread.
I thought about keeping my Weiand dual plane intake for bottom end torque but the trade off in 4-6000rpm HP & TQ numbers didn't make it seem like a good idea.

Intake Port Test Data @28" of water
.100 .200 .300 .400 .500 .600 .700
70.74 146.41 204.62 249.84 264.62 272.23 282.08

Exhaust Port Test Data @28" of water
.100 .200 .300 .400 .500 .600 .700
56.90 100.99 156.94 176.85 186.34 190.13 194.87

These are the HP & TQ #'s from DD using a single vs a dual plane intake. EA was showing about the same style curves.
http://www.casemp.com/gregh/car/dual%20vs%20single.JPG

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Stall is at 2200</font>
I was fooling around about spinning tires.I figured if it was a dog off the line it wasn't even spinning street tires.I feel that converter is to tight for your combo.If you could get it up around 32-3500 off the line I believe you would be a lot happier.

------------------
1978 Z-28 purchased new by me -$6750
Click here (http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/someonehasthisid/detail?.dir=/d752&.dnm=aefd.jpg) to view present state photo
Look above for glory days.
1994 Formula
1982 350 S-10

I'd have to agree with changing the converter and the gears, BUT I lean towards those heads being a little big. I run Pro Topline 180cc heads with a XE274H and I think it's stout as hell off the line. That's with a 2700 flash stall and 3.42 gears.

My timing is set at 36 i have 11.2:1
i run 93 octane

I think it's always a good first step to get things in tune. Getting the timing curve set and the fuel mixtures consistant and in the best power/torque ratios.

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70 SS 454 CI Dynoed 684 HP, 702 TQ All Aluminium Fuel Injected Small Block , plus 200 - 500 HP NX nitrous system.

That low timing total aint helping you any.

Get the timing dailed in, then carb, and see where your at after that as far as power.

I seen cars gain 20-30 hp just be setting the timing curve and total right.

You should be able to get 35-36* easy on pump fuel

I'm running 10.18:1, with a 216/228* @ .050" cam, cyl psi in the 217-219 psi range and can run 34* total timing.

With your cam you'll have a good bit less cyl. psi than I do, so I see no prob with 36* total.

Check the curve too. You want it to start advancing at about 800-1000 rpm and be fully in at 2800-3100 rpm.

Run vac advance too!!! if you aint already

Thanks. I will report back after I get the timing and carb adjusted . Hopefully I can do that later this week.