I want to get my block ready for partial fill. I went to the machinist with the Rottler boring mill I like and he went on the up sell. All I need for now is the plugs put in the deck and the decks skimmed so I can torque everything and do a partial block fill. He is a good guy and he will do my work as per my spec if I insist.

He has a 500.00 Cdn "prep" package he runs. It includes a lot and I take issue with some of what he wants me to do. He will do the deck plugs, machine the rear transmission face, notch the block for a 3.75 throw and 6 " rod. Much more...he does the oil galley restrictors, the screens to keep busted peices from falling in, all the inside grinding and channel smoothing for the oil flow, plug the small holes alongthe lifter valley. In addition he'll drill all the main oil gallery passages one size up, face off the top of all the lifter bores to see if they are true and I'm sure he mentioned some other oil gallery work where the pump mounts and the filter sits. He has this formula that works for 700HP for 400 chev blocks. He had several 400s on the go and so could show me the work he does. I don't question the value. Problem is I'm building a much easier street sleeper and I have a grinder and compressor and experiance...a long time ago but!

In conversation he insists even for my modest? 450HP attempt I need roller tip rockers and he says "Crane nitrided rockers" will die. Of course they will if he restricts the main oil galleries ( I know of it and wasn't planning on it ). The main bearing oil gallery enlarging seems to have merit. I have very little core shift and I would be suprised if any lifter bores are "out". Any comments on some of these procedures? He's a good kid and he has a formula that works I'm sure. However my car will NEVER be trailered to the track! No offense to those who run 600HP and take it more seriously but its just my style.

That's all good stuff to do, but for a 450HP street motor I think most all of if falls in the nice but not needed. Get the block square to the world (with the deck plugs), including the pan rail as well, screen the valley, and clearance to fit the stroker. Smooth the block yourself if you want to save money. Block prep does payoff in the end.

I don't think there is a benefit to drilling the galleries except to clear the passages of any flash. The Chevy oiling system has seemed to pump more than enough oil around over the years and to me has proven pretty reliable in stock form.

Can't comment on the Crane rockers, we use Comp, T&D, Harland Sharp and Scorpion for the low budget jobs.

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70 SS 454 CI Dynoed 684 HP, 702 TQ All Aluminium Fuel Injected Small Block , plus 200 - 500 HP NX nitrous system.

GM got the oiling system on both, the SB and the BB just about dead-nuts right the first time even with the original 1955 and 1965 notched rear cam bearing main motors!!

Leave it alone b/c I figure if it works, why screw it up!!

I wouldn't even run a high pressure or volume oil pump unless I was going to run bleeder solid lifters with the little EDM holes in their feet... And then it would be a high volume pump AND I would make darn sure that I had the needed excess oil cap. and oil drain back AND oil position holding so that I wouldn't suck the pan dry!!!

pdq67

You need a different machinist.
None of that work is needed. And if that block does need allthat truing up and resurfacing, then you need a different block, that one is junk.
Clearence the crank, remove burrs and casting flash, radius the rear main cap oil pump gallery where it mates with the oil pump. The oiling system needs no other attention. The block fill and deck plugs are OK if you are running 12:1 compression,, 9.5:1 won't need it.

It NEVER hurts to zero deck, using plugs in the big holes. Also nothing wrong with squaring the tranny face. Drilling the oil holes one size above stock isn't going to really do anything except like Rick said, clean out any crud.

I would spend a lot of time with all oil plugs removed and some rifle cleaning brushes http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/wink.gif You'd be amazed at what you can't get to in those places.

Why spend all the money for that work? Get a new Dart or World block for less with most of the work done. Plus blind head bolt holes, thicker bores, thicker decks, steel splayed main caps and better webs. For 450 hp, tap the deck holes yourself and install the plugs, then have it decked, check the mains and bored the min to clean up the bores. 450 is not that much power.

Thanks for the feedback. I really wasn't planning to do all that stuff he suggested, I just asked what it was he was doing. A Dart block is worth 4 x that, isn't it?

The deck plugs I will do. The 400 blocks have bores so close to the head bolt bores that the extra stability is worth it. A lot of stock 245HP 400 engine blocks are toast becuase they exhibit these cracks by the head bolt bores into the cylinders. Thats stock! Like many I looked at a lot of blocks before grabbing 2 of them. The second one I am using is stone stock and untouched with a machine tool so is a good base piece. The cooling can be evened out as well with deck plugs. As for partial block fill you don't need high cylinder pressures to have ring bounce. Its a simple, kinda fun, cheap trick that should work well with tight quench to get a little extra out of it.

I agree the stock oiling is more than adequete. My machinist is fine. He has the best kit in Calgary for accurate machining and will do my stuff custom. I'll do a lot of block prep and mock it up as needed to get the pistons ( 16cc dish leaving 10.3 mechanical compression and with the cam about 8.2 dynamic compression. ) just the right height. In any event I enjoy fooling around with them and the labor is always our own best deal. Onovakind67's "7 good things to do" is as good a model to follow as any!

The price of 400 block was skyrocketing. Two years ago I found a block 200 miles away for a decent price, the only local block was already bored with a high price tag. If the prices were going up over the last 2 years, a dart or world block may be cheaper. You have the price of the used block, hot tacking it, sonic testing it, boring the block, decking the block, and maybe line honing it.

With a new block you only have one common procedure, honing it. At least you have another two rebuilds when it weare out. The bores can go out to something like 4.195 and have enough cyl wall. The block is also probably clearenced for 6" rods from the factory.

Getting a crank in the used block is OK but when the cast steel cranks are so reasonable, why mess with it?

I'd love to have gone for a Dart block. I probably would've gone with a 422 or 434 inch finished job as well. I'm sure a 406 will keep things interesting for the next couple of years either way. I will go with a new nodular crank and some new rods as well. I was leaning to the 6" rod set up since its a little lighter and can be internally balanced. The main thrust on the crank in the good block I found was burnt out but I would be going Scat anyway. Std. blocks are really rare and I looked at a lot of them. One day a Dart block!

Joe Sherman claims 15-20 hp more when using a Dart block over a stock one. The bores keep in more compression cause they are thicker and the mains stay in line better causing less frictional loss.

Yes, you are going to spend $2000+ (US) for a Dart block.