Seems the rear most passenger cylinder - #8.. doesn't like its header gasket. Got a nice strong burn track, soot on head, loud tick noise.. yeah it's a leak.

Being the genius I am, I just finished retorquing and.. loctiting the header bolts no more than 2 days ago. Yes, I used red loctite.
I can only access the bolts with a 7/16" itty bitty wrench and #8 is not exactly the easiest to get at.

I used the same felpro gaskets I used before with no issues (albeit on a different motor with different style heads and different headers) - the felpro metal and fiber ones.
How screwed am I?

In order of importance:
Can I remove the bolts without breaking anything
Can I drive it like this short term without hurting anything (I can't see that I would)
Can I get away with loosening the header bolts and replacing the gasket without unbolting from the exhaust system

Thanks

Yes the bolts will come out, and I wouldn't be suprised if they come out somewhat easily. Loctite has a melting point (depending on the grade) of around 500 degrees. With exhaust temperatures easily exceeding 1200 degrees, at least part of those bolts should have hit 500 degrees, at least the sides closest to the port walls. You should have little problem sliding in a new gasket without having to unbolt the rest of the exhaust from the header.

Fel-Pro gaskets, along with most others have the first and last hole notched so you can leave these two bolt in the header and drop the gasket in place. I went through a spat with mine doing the same but with Mr. Gasket gaskets, never had a problem with Fel-Pro's. You might be able to get some kind of straight edge in to check for header flange warp and make sure both surfaces are clean.

Good luck - I feel your pain. :)

You can simply replace the gasket. Like was already mentioned, most header gaskets have slotted holes on the ends so you can remove all but the two end bolts, pull the burned gasket out, and drop a new one in without removing the headers.
I'd recommend trying a different brand of gasket. A good header gasket should not burn out anytime during the life of a set of headers as long as your engine doesn't have a problem that makes the headers glow red. I use only Earl's gaskets after having to replace a lot of other brands over the years. My Earl's gaskets on my daily driver are on their second set of headers.

thanks guys.

I think the problem here was the long-distance trip I took (700km) where the bolts came loose and backed out pretty bad on a few cylinders.. and I didn't notice it of course, at highway speed.

I use a 1/4" drive ratchet and 7/16 socket for the furthest back header bolts on #7 & #8 cylinders. A 1/4" drive ratchet and 7/16 socket will fit a much tighter space and can handle the 30lbs of torque required for the header bolts. Aluminum or copper gaskets are superior to the paper gaskets, more expensive but they will last for years and you can reuse them many times.

Are you having problems with the gasket blowing out more then one time?

With my old headers I had the same problem. Using 2 Mr Gasket Ultra Seal gaskets solved the problem for me.

As far as keeping the header bolts tight, I got a Stage 8 setup http://www.stage8.com/auto.htm for mine. Works great

I don't recomment the stage 8's to anyone because the majority of people that I knew that had them said they backed out quicker and easier than regular header bolts. I'm not personally going to try them to find out on my own....I'll stick to regular header bolts and check regulary...

well rs, don't recommend them then, base it on whatever. I personally have used them and still do. They do not back out, the locks on them will not allow it.

4868


But to each his own I guess.....