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View Full Version : Year/Models for Big Block donor?


AllGo
08-16-2007, 08:37:18 PM
If I was looking for a Big Block, what year/ models would be the best to look for around in the junk yards? Or if its easier, which ones should I not get it from? I seem to remember that some years and a higher nickle content and would be more prone to cracking, but I cant seem to find a decent link to all the years when I run a search. Any suggestions or links you know of would be appreciated. Thanks.

Oh, and I really only need the bare block itself, so anything else on it would be just getting resold or scrapped.

74RAT
08-16-2007, 09:17:12 PM
If I was looking for a Big Block, what year/ models would be the best to look for around in the junk yards?

AllGo,, typically,, up to arround 1989-1990 is the mark4 block with a 2 piece rear main seal block and crankshaft. most of the bulk of the aftermarket heads are designed arround this block deck design as far as head gaskets and water jacket holes go.

some surburbans,, some 3/4 and 1 ton trucks are likely finds for them. i'd guess that from what i've seen,,, some of the 445# casting blocks have 4 bolt mains. not all of them though. sometimes you can visibly tell from the outside by the "2" big 3/8" pipe plug fittings in the side of the oil filter pad,, just above where the filter screws to the block. some of the newer blocks have an oil filter adapter with an oil cooler built into it. so it might not have the 2 big plugs anymore in some of them. but removing the pan will be the sure bet to tell. 454's that are 4 bolt will have 4 bolts in EVERY main cap.

that's a starting point for you. some of the 1 tons have a steel crank in them also,, but not all of them. my 2 bolt is a early 70's #289 casting. a block with a higher nickle content IS desirable. makes the block stronger. hope it helps.
andy

ZS10
08-16-2007, 10:03:07 PM
If I was looking for a Big Block, what year/ models would be the best to look for around in the junk yards? Or if its easier, which ones should I not get it from? I seem to remember that some years and a higher nickle content and would be more prone to cracking, but I cant seem to find a decent link to all the years when I run a search. Any suggestions or links you know of would be appreciated. Thanks.

Oh, and I really only need the bare block itself, so anything else on it would be just getting resold or scrapped.
Maybe just look around for a bare block. Then you can see what you get.

Marks71BB
08-16-2007, 10:20:46 PM
My doner engine came from my wifes 73 Suburban. T400 trani also. It was a trailor special and was retired when we get her a new Trailblazer.

The 454 was a popular engine in the 70's 80's trucks, especialy the 3/4 ton.

80'427
08-17-2007, 09:59:14 AM
Mine is a old lpg irrigation motor. Cast crank and 4 bolt block, junk heads. 1988 casting mark IV.

pdq67
08-17-2007, 10:09:48 AM
I forgot about Agricultural engines.

pdq67

74RAT
08-17-2007, 03:53:27 PM
I forgot about Agricultural engines.

pdq67

that remindes me,, AllGo,, you might also check out the marine repair shops that repair the bigger boats. the 502 bowtie blocks as well as the 454's were also used by the g.m. mercruiser division. some of them came with steel cranks/4 bolt blocks/and 7/16" dimple rods as well as with rectangle port heads. might get lucky enough to get a warranty pullout with a broken something or other. might find a nice block that way though.
andy

theflash
08-17-2007, 03:59:40 PM
Mine is a marine block

80'427
08-17-2007, 05:48:31 PM
My buddy was in the marines and claimed that they would have equipment auctions and they would sell groups of like 10 454 mercuiser engines out of seal assault boats. If the engines quit they would just pull it and put in a new one to keep the boats running. Always wanted my cousin that was a lt in the navy to get me some. Remember some of those marine engines run backward so you have to at least check the cam and change the dist gear if it is reverse.

74RAT
08-17-2007, 09:02:36 PM
Remember some of those marine engines run backward so you have to at least check the cam and change the dist gear if it is reverse.

right,, those will be a direct gear to gear timing setup. can't use that cam either.
andy