I think this is mostly for the 70-72 guys. I'm looking into installing my battery in the trunk in my 71. The wiring harness in the front needs to have a connection from the positive side of the battery to complete the front wiring harness for the lights and such. If i move the battery in the back, where do i get this source from?? Also what about for my mallory box too? Do i need to have a kill switch on a street car in the back? Might see some strip passes here and there. I didn't want to kill my radio all the time shutting the current off to everything. Or is it better to have one when you have all that wire hot?? Wheres a good spot to put a switch without cutting my lamp panel? Saw one in the back up lamp one time. Anyone done that? Wondering how to go about that?? Thanks guys.

If you race at a track with the battery in the trunk you need the kill switch to pass tech.As for the power you can still get your power from the starter.
You can always build a little bracket that drops down from the bumber.

also if mounting the battery in the trunk you'll need to also have an alternator cut out wired to the switch.another words the bat. wire on the alternator needs to be relocated to the battery cut out switch.most tech officials will not let you run unless it's wired this way.

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1972 chevy camaro ss 350 sbc 425 hp/356 @ the wheels,350 trans,373 gears,daily driver with restification in progress for that old school day 2 look ------- future plans- turning it into a baldwin motion Z30 clone
"IF IT'S TO LOUD YOUR TO OLD"
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<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by craggar:
As for the power you can still get your power from the starter.</font>

Yup, that's the ticket.

Dont forget, if you plan on a trip to the track you will need a firewall at the back of the back seat.... I was denied at Martin last year because of this....

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1970 1/2 RS Z28 S.B., Pump Gas, Radials, Full Tails ( 3 1/2" ) 10.59 @ 129

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by Z COOKS:
Dont forget, if you plan on a trip to the track you will need a firewall at the back of the back seat.... I was denied at Martin last year because of this....

</font>

I got around that with my Vega by putting a Optima in.

I just did this on my Camaro. There is a very easy way to this, and there is the best way.

The best way involves getting a ford starter solinoid and mounting it in the rear next to the battery. Then you extend the starter solinoid wire the the rear of the car and hook it up to the ford solinoid to activate it. Run your heavy guage positive battery cable (I used 1 guage) to the ford solinoid, then from the ford solinoid to the front and the starter power lug. Run a jumper from the starter power lug to the starter solinoid. This way, whenever there is power to the starter, it will kick over, like a ford style.

Cut the alternator charge wire from the harness at the firewall and run it to the rear and hook it to the always hot stud on the ford solinoid. I used 8 guage wire. Run more 8 guage from the always hot stud on the solinoid to your on off switch, then back to the front and connect it into the firewall harness where you cut the charge wire. This should supply power to everything.

Run a heavy guage ground cable to one of the bumper bolts, and a couple of heavy grounds (I used a pair of 4 guage) from the motor to the subframe, and body. I like to put one of them on one of the starter bolts. Seems to help it.

This way completely cuts off the cars power when the switch is flipped.

And I almost forgot...this way also keeps you from having a unfused heavy guage cable running the length of the car, and you can will never burn out a on/off switch since there in never more than about 60 amps going though it.

Thanks for the info guys.

Rick
What gauge wiring did you use from the starter to the ford solenoid? Thanks for the great installation info. I might get one of those optima batteries too. Got a few winter projects in my head! What type of box did you use and where abouts did you put it? Can you get to it on the ledge part of the rh area of the trunk near the qt panel? Thanks again.

No box in my car since I have a fuel cell also. I just made a simple firewall by closing in the holes the the panel where the backseat goes and the package tray.

I used 1 guage for the starter power wire.

My battery is on a tray right in the corner of the passenger side of the trunk and the ford solinoid is bolted to the bracket in the trunk the rear bumper bolts to.

Did you just put a piece of sheet metal over the back seat area to seal it? Anyone know how thick it has to be? Thanks

.024" thick steel or .032" thick alum.

Some tracks are picky some aint. Just to be on the safe side, I say weld the sheet metal on, then fill any small cracks/holes with silicon, or seem sealer

Contact M.A.D. Enterprises.
Mark's the best and it'll be the safest set up and the most efficient for your car.
Don't just get a catalog or go by the articles, call and speak to him.
He helped wire everything from street to race.

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by RacerRick:
And I almost forgot...this way also keeps you from having a unfused heavy guage cable running the length of the car, and you can will never burn out a on/off switch since there in never more than about 60 amps going though it.</font>

Don't you still need to switch the power (through the master disconnect switch) going to the solenoid to be legal?

With the firewall, can I just weld metal into the existing panel behind the rear seat to close it up?

I did as RacerRick suggests except left the alternator wires as-is. We won't drag race this car anyway.

I really like this method and after reading the MAD site suggestions, the horn relay is where any accessories or headlights should be powered from. The alternator "sensor" wire connects there and it makes sure there is 14.5 volts at that point. If you take power from somewhere else, the voltage will be lower.
You don't need to run the alt power to the rear unless you want to kill a running engine using the rear cut off switch.

The cut off switch I used is a 50 amp toggle, shown upper left in the aluminum plate, we open the trunk and cut power off when we park the car. I ran a separate wire to power the stereo memory, and put an inline fuse on it.

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/73bat_in_trunk.jpg

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http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/
67 RS 327 orig owner, 69 Camaro Vintage racer, 65 Lola T-70 Can-Am vintage racer.

[This message has been edited by davidpozzi (edited December 02, 2004).]

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by craggar:
I got around that with my Vega by putting a Optima in.</font>

Is that NHRA legal? From what I remember from the rulebook is you either need a box or a firewall. Or is it just for non sealed batterys? I really don't want to put a box in if I don't have to let alone a firewall. I already have the Optima so...

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by 1974typelt/z28:
Contact M.A.D. Enterprises.
Mark's the best and it'll be the safest set up and the most efficient for your car.
Don't just get a catalog or go by the articles, call and speak to him.
He helped wire everything from street to race.</font>

madelectrical.com

As soon as you turn the shutoff switch on my car - everything is dead unless you are trying to crank the engine. The starter is the only one that has power.

Nice and safe.