With the great help of the archives, I found posts on how to check timing. This is my first time doing this so bear with me. The motor was rebuilt stock a few months back and I've driven it about 500 miles. The only non-stock part is an Edelbrock performer manifold but I'm using the stock Q-jet.

I set the idle at about 700 rpms, plugged the vacuum advance hose, and checked the timing with my gun set to 0 and timing was about 10*. Next I had the wife hold down the pedal at these rpms and I included where the knob ended up with I hit the zero tab each time:

1000 - 15
1500 - 21
2000 - 26
2500 - 31
2800 - 32
3000 - 36
3200 - 37
3500 - 38

How does this look? Also, please clear up some confusion for me - what is my total timing?

Thanks!

Your initial is 15*
You're total timing is 38*, if it doesn't go any higher.

Usually sb like ~36 total, but if you can get away with 38 and no pinging, its all good.

Your initial is 15*
You're total timing is 38*, if it doesn't go any higher.

Usually sb like ~36 total, but if you can get away with 38 and no pinging, its all good.

Ok, so total is 38* I thought initial was the timing at idle which would be 10* in my case.

Should I make any adjustments? According to an article by the GM guy Lars, he states "Small block Chevys (and most other GM performance V8 engines) perform best when the total timing (full centrifugal advance plus the initial timing setting with vacuum advance disconnected) is all in by 2,500 – 2,800 rpm and is set to 36 – 38 degrees."

I'm at 32* at 2800 rpms. Should I add more initial?

The reason I checked the timing curve is because my motor runs hot. It does not overheat but is constantly at 200 to 210* and I read posts about how retarded timing causes heat. (I've checked everthing on the cooling system and it all is in order.)

Any input is welcome! Thanks again. This is my first time exploring this kind of stuff on a motor. It's fun and educational.

You don't need to add more initial, what you need to do is look at buying a re-curve kit. They sell weights and springs for the distributor to change the curve so that you'll reach full advance earlier.

Your initial is at idle, I assumed that 1000 rpm was your idle.
Your curve isn't off enough to make the engine overly hot.
The article you read is pretty general, each engine has its own preference to timing curve. The grade of gas you use will determine the curve more than anything else. Higher octane can stand more, and faster timing. With that curve, you can likely run regular gas if you're around 9.5:1 Thats not a bad thing at all.

If you want to get into it and change springs or weights to quicken the curve and can do so without pinging, you'll gain a little bit of power, I doubt anything you'll feel. Set the dizzy for ~36 total advance and change one spring at a time and see how it affects the 'all in' rpm. Very easy to do.

You don't really work from you initial, let it fall where it may. The total advance and where its 'all in' is more important. To adjust the initial for better idle, is a little more involved. What kind of distributer do you have?

Your initial is at idle, I assumed that 1000 rpm was your idle.
Your curve isn't off enough to make the engine overly hot.
The article you read is pretty general, each engine has its own preference to timing curve. The grade of gas you use will determine the curve more than anything else. Higher octane can stand more, and faster timing. With that curve, you can likely run regular gas if you're around 9.5:1 Thats not a bad thing at all.

If you want to get into it and change springs or weights to quicken the curve and can do so without pinging, you'll gain a little bit of power, I doubt anything you'll feel. Set the dizzy for ~36 total advance and change one spring at a time and see how it affects the 'all in' rpm. Very easy to do.

You don't really work from you initial, let it fall where it may. The total advance and where its 'all in' is more important. To adjust the initial for better idle, is a little more involved.
So in your opinion, my current curve is not having an affect on the motor running too hot? If not, them I'll will focus on other areas to figure out why it runs 200/210 range constantly. Thanks for the info!


What kind of distributer do you have?

Over-the-counter stock replacement. I'm not even sure what spring setup is currently in the dist.

In your opinion, would I be fine to leave the curve as it is now?