The local track,[Red River Raceway],is now an NHRA track and I will need a driveshaft loop. Where is the best area along the tunnel to mount one and what type of bracing did you use.Also since we are running 12`s and my Z is a T-top a roll bar will be coming soon.

You will have to follow the rule book to pass and I believe is says that the loop should be no more that 6 or so inches back from the trans u-joint. We used the Summit brand and it mounts into the floor. It is some where around $25 and easy.

LA, if you want a direct fit one try these guys-
http://www.metco-inc.com/driveshaftsafetyloops.shtml

I got one & it fit great. It goes for about 80 bucks, but you dont have to fab everything up. Summit/Jegs dont carry them, but my place does-
www.laneautomotive.com (http://www.laneautomotive.com)


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11.74@118mph in full street trim, driven to the track every time! Trailers are for boats..

I purchased one at the local speed shop with the name lakewood industries .I didnt use the whole loop I used the bottom half. that has the flat part on each side to bolt to the floor. The floor brace which is situated at the tail of our trannies is at an angel so makes it hard to bolt up so I cut the side wings off the hoop and rewelded them at an angel to match the floor. I drilled small holes into the outer part of the floor brace as not to go through the floor and use self threading 3/8 bolts .Past all inspections so far and if it doesnt all I have to do is unbolt and rework the upper half of the hoop in later.

<font face="Arial,Verdana" size="2">Originally posted by cattmann1:
I purchased one at the local speed shop with the name lakewood industries .I didnt use the whole loop I used the bottom half. that has the flat part on each side to bolt to the floor. The floor brace which is situated at the tail of our trannies is at an angel so makes it hard to bolt up so I cut the side wings off the hoop and rewelded them at an angel to match the floor. I drilled small holes into the outer part of the floor brace as not to go through the floor and use self threading 3/8 bolts .Past all inspections so far and if it doesnt all I have to do is unbolt and rework the upper half of the hoop in later.</font>
Technically it's not legal but I too know of a couple guys that did the same and have got away with it because everyone is usually too lazy to get under and look,one is a low 9 car.
Personally I would do it right for your own safety.

It'll rip those self tapping screws right out of the floor in an instant.

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1978 Z-28 purchased new by me -$6750
Click here (http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/someonehasthisid/detail?.dir=/d752&.dnm=aefd.jpg) to view present state photo
Look above for glory days.
1994 Formula
1982 350 S-10

I cut 2" off a piece of 6" diameter pipe and welded two peices of 2"x1/4" flatbar to it and drilled holes through the flatbar and the floor and used 3/8" bolts with large washers on the interior side of the floor. Total cost about $5 for the scrap metal.
Maybe a little crude, but my 'shaft isn't getting away on me.

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73RS/LT/427

Thanks for all of the sugestions, thats what makes this a great site.

One more suggestion.
www.spohn.net (http://www.spohn.net) makes a bolt on loop that bolts to your crossmember, no drilling, no floor mods, no sheet metal cutting, a true 100% bolt on. I put one on mine in like 1/2 hour with a couple of hand wrenches.
NHRA and IHRA do not have an SFI or DS rating for loops, but here is what they say:
1. Located within 6" of the front U-Joint
2. Surrounds the shaft 360 degrees
3. Must be 1/4" thick
4. Loop must be 2" wide
Take a look on spohns site, as thier loop meets the spec. Powder coated in red or black about 80 bucks, bolt on, and pretty too.

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406 Stroker Brodix 200CC Race Rite Heads
Tremec TKO 600 5 Speed