I confirmed today that my cam is indeed flat. I decided to try and set the valve lash (lifter preload) with the engine running being that I had several collapsed lifters. While the motor was running I found that the #4 intake rocker wasn't moving at all. So, got a couple of buddies together and we pulled the engine in record time for us (hour and a half) and am going to start tearing it down tommorrow. Maybe now I'll be able to find out why my oil pressure is so low at idle.

Worn main and rod bearings are probably why your oil pressure is low..

pdq67

Why would they be worn? The motor has less than 1000 miles on it.

Check it out is all I can say???

Or maybe your oil pump pick-up came off??

pdq67

"Check it" That sounds like a great idea. I'm not putting it back together until I find something wrong. Definately not the pump pickup tube, it's fully welded. Came as a pump and pickup assembly from summit. Not a bad pump either as it is the second pump that i put in.


[This message has been edited by marsfrogie (edited November 17, 2004).]

Did you check rod and main bearing clearances when you built the engine?

Also did you check the oil pump pick up to oil pan floor clearance when you built the engine?

Did you install that little hex plug under the rear main?

Is there a crack in the oil pump pickup tube or weld?

Yeah make sure all the oil galley plugs are in place. Plastigage every crank journal in 2-3 different directions. You'll find something!

night rider
1.I payed the engine shop to assemble a shorblock.
2.The pump, pickup and pan came as a package for a moroso 7quart pan.
3.Didn't assemble the motor.
4.Doubtful, anyway, this is the second oil pump.

Can anyone give me a rundown on how to use a plastigauge. I've never had to deal with one before. Also, there are two different sizes, which one do I need?

Thanks again.




[This message has been edited by marsfrogie (edited November 18, 2004).]

From experience: Wiped out lobes=wiped out bearings. I have been down this road several times before...

plastigauge is easy to use and gets pretty close. Myself I don't use it. I measure everything with dails calipers, bore gauges, mics, etc

To use plastigauge you cut a pc off, take the little wire looking part out of the paper.

On the rod and main journals put alittle oil, not much.

Place the pc. of plastigauge on the journal (so its laying on journal points front to rear, not side to side across)

Put cap on and torque down to spec.
Pull cap off, the plastigauge will be wider now. Get your little pc of paper that you took it out of, and place the paper next to the plastigauge still on the crank journal. Move the paper till one of the spots matchs the the size of the plastigauge. Read what numbers are on the paper at that spot.
That is your bearing clearance for that journal/bearing.

Do all 8 rods, and all 5 mains

The shop listed clearance specs are..
.0012'' - .0037" rod bearings
.0006" - .0036" main bearings

But I don't like those at all. Its the guide the shops use on stock rebuilds

Foe performance engines I like to see
Rods .002"-.0025"
Mains .0025"-.003"

The above is for a SBC engine

Took the motor completely apart today. All I can say is "carnage".... The intake lobe on #4 is completely flat and the lifter is concave. The rod and crank bearings are screwed and the crank is quite torn up. The cam bearings looked ok, all the holes lined up. The crank is VERY badly scared, I don't know if it will clean up with a turn or not. I left the heads on and just pushed all the rods out of the way to pull the crank. Has anyone ever changed the bearings without pulling the heads? Seems like it is possible if I take my time and put vacuum hoses over all of the rod bolts. One last question is what do I torque these ARP rod bolts to? They seem to be larger than stock.

You can change the bearings without pulling the heads. My dad and I changed the crank once without pulling the engine. So I know it can be done. Good LUck

MaTt

I think I would be paying a visit to the shop who built the short block. Something is definitely wrong here. If that much is destroyed, sounds like you had an oil issue, like said about, maybe an oil gallery plug or something is missing.

Is there something somewhere that lists where all the oil galley plugs should be? I looked through the block and they all seemed to be there.

Haha, I was just thinking to myself, "Maybe I'll actually be able to hear the Xpipe" with all 8 firing. My exhaust has always sounded weird. With those ARP bolts? Do I torque them more than I would normally torque stock bolts?

i'm pretty sure the ARP rod bolts call for the same torque specs as stock.

Stock for the 3/8" bolts? 45LBS/FT

Mars,
I would pull the heads too. Sounds like you'll need to wash the block down and get it good and clean anyway. I've rebuilt them from underneath too, but you have known problems to take care of. All that ground up metal is pumped into every nook and cranny, and a real good washing is in order. Don't take the chance.

------------------
John Wright

That's something I didn't want to hear.