Alright guys, It's in the machine shop getting cleaned up and assembled so I thought I'd ask for your opinions on my set-up.
It's a 79' Camaro Berlinetta 350(original) Posi T-TOP car.
Engine: 350 4-BOLT (original to car block)
bored .30 over
MAHLE 11:1 forged pistons and piston rings
Eagle H-BEAM 6.0 rods forged
Eagle 4340 forged Crankshaft 3.750 Stroke
MILIDON BILLET original style main caps
ARP everything
AFR 210 CC race-ready aluminum heads assembled with 66CC .670" lift roller springs
1.6 ratio roller rockers
standard length pushrods heat treated
gear drive timing set
Comp Cams Xtreme Energy XR286R Mechanical Roller Camshaft
Lift with 1.6 ratio is I-612" E-621"
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 248° Intake / 254° Exhaust
Weiand Team-G intake manifold 925-7530
Demon Mighty 750 Mechanical Secondary
HEI ignition
ATI super dampner
Dual 13" Electric fans
I have right now a MSD 6AL set-up im lookin into maybe swapping out for something else (give me your reccommendations)
NX hitman PLATE kit 200 shot i think ill only run maybe
TH400 with 3000 stall
10 bolt 4:10 posi out back

Tell me what you guys think and what little things would be good to add...IT's a mainly street car with some track time

Goal mid 11's on the motor ET STREET
Touch 10.80's on the sauce.

Camaro race cars in the low 11's don't have anywhere near that much motor.
Do the MSD, not the HEI,,any other ignition won't do better than the MSD.

I think I would tone it down a bit if its going to be mainly a street car and all you want is high 10s on the bottle.

You guys think i MIGHT be able to pull off a high high 10's in this thing without bottle?
I'm looking for input cuz i've never stroked the sbc and here alot of great things...I think the car will run strong and be relatively reliable...its a weekend cruiser warrior...
It's the thing, I wanna do it right the first time.
Without doing a cage...
How can i stiffen up the chassis to relieve body flex.
I have comp engineering bolt in frame connectors that are also welded.
Rear end is a Comp Slide-a-Link which i really like.
I'm trying to pick shocks...i'd like adjustable...I'm looking in lines of 70/30 front 50/50 back.

If it's a full weight car there is no way you'll hit the 10's, you'll be in the upper 11's would be my guess if it's a good runner.

I'm seeing around 540-560HP. Your 11 second goal is not going to be much of a problem other than TRACTION. May take some tunning and tweeking the package, to get deep into the 11's. My opiniopn,,,, the 200HP shot of giggle gas might do the trick for a 10. You won't know till you get some passes and find what the car likes (launch, shift, tire pressure bla bla bla)

Oh, one question... stock length pushrods??? That seems like a lot of lift, in the AFR 210 heads for the stock length pushrods to give good geometry.

From what the machine shop and AFR tell me thats what i need to run...i also was thinking +.100 would do the trick but stock hardened is whats called for.
I know there's only 1 way to find out and thats to run it. I cant wait it's not done yet should be another 2 -3 weeks when shes running and everything ill post a video. I have a picture of the car if you guys are interested in knowing what its going in. Yes its a full weight car.
http://www.gtcars.ca/gallery/files/1/3/5/camaroatshopedited.jpg

Id say lower 11's with tuning and Id ditch the gear drive it it was mine they bother me on longer drives as well as when Im under the hood trying to listen for other things.

I'm not a drag racer so I'm staying outta the ET predictions...

In general I like your combo - I'll make a couple of small notes


You shouldn't even be discussing pushrod length get the motor put together and use a length checker to the the geometry right than order the right ones... don't guess.
I don't see a rocker-stud girdle on your parts list; there should be.
Dump the gear drive - at best they are more trouble than they are worth. A good old double roller timing chain is hard to beat.
The MSD 6AL is a fine setup - esipcally when combined with a Pro-Billet Distributor and a 8207 Coil... really no reason to change that. BUT if you really must have the latest the MSD Digital 6 Plus is an awesome box.
Last - but not least - with a t-top car you better brace the hell out of this chassis. I would start off with the PT f-body stopflex kit (http://www.pro-touringf-body.com/chassis_components.html) but you are gonna want at least a 4-point roll car to help support the car, 6 would be better

I agree with Lowend on this setup.

It sounds like you'll have plenty of motor but inho you will experience a definite problem with your intake being not enough. My setup is similar, but with less cam lift, and by changing from the same intake (team G) to a Super Vic I picked up lots of power. That and you might want to think about beefing up the 10 bolt, if its in stock form.

Is this a street car? Street manners with this might not be what you are looking for.....

Ok, here's the scoop. You and I have IDENTICAL shortblocks. Same block, crank, rods and pistons. You also have the IDENTICAL cam I am running, but I have 1.5 rockers. I have 200cc Dart Pro 1 heads that have been fully ported. They are now in the 210-215cc range and flow 296 intake/196 exhaust at .600 lift. That's pretty close to your heads. I have a Victor Jr. and a Holley HP 750 DP, which I would say is comparable to your intake and carb. My car with me in it weighs 3500lbs. I have a TH350, a 4000 stall and a 12 bolt with 3.73 gears and 275/60/15 M/T ET Street radials. I have run a best of a 7.30 @ 93.65mph in the 1/8 which equates to 11.40-11.50 at about 115mph in the 1/4. I know there is more left in my set up. I've only been to the track 3 times and its been hot each time. Some colder weather would get me some 7.1-7.2's I haven't played with valve lash or timing that much either, so I think I can get some 7.0's from my set up as is. That's 11.0-11.1 in the 1/4. You should be able to be right there as well, depending on the weight of your car. You might be lacking a tad in the converter department as well. I get 1.56-1.57 60' times with plain old traction bars and some 90/10's up front.

not to jack the thread but.. i heard mechanical roller lifters are a pain on the street...? is this true? iv heard that they make lots of noise and need to adjusted all the time....

I'm not a drag racer so I'm staying outta the ET predictions...

In general I like your combo - I'll make a couple of small notes


You shouldn't even be discussing pushrod length get the motor put together and use a length checker to the the geometry right than order the right ones... don't guess.
I don't see a rocker-stud girdle on your parts list; there should be.
Dump the gear drive - at best they are more trouble than they are worth. A good old double roller timing chain is hard to beat.
The MSD 6AL is a fine setup - esipcally when combined with a Pro-Billet Distributor and a 8207 Coil... really no reason to change that. BUT if you really must have the latest the MSD Digital 6 Plus is an awesome box.
Last - but not least - with a t-top car you better brace the hell out of this chassis. I would start off with the PT f-body stopflex kit (http://www.pro-touringf-body.com/chassis_components.html) but you are gonna want at least a 4-point roll car to help support the car, 6 would be better



Thanks for the information seems very well thought out and the improvements im going to see what i can do. I already did the body mounts with all urethane mounts, Comp Engineering bolt on subframe connectors(welded also) and a comp slide-a-link rear traction set-up...probably not this year i want to do the front tubular upper and lower control arms and QA1 coilover front suspension and just the adjustable shocks in the rear. I think for suspension thats all i should need.
I want to install a nice 6 point roll cage in the car thats snug fitting so access in the car and rear seat is still useable...tight but fitable. Im a big guy 6'2" 220 lbs so thats why im trying to figure out seats im thinking 4th gens recovered in my red custom vinyl will make it appear OE.
What do you guys reccommend for a good rocker stud girdle (not familiar)...
I was thinking i want to clean up my under the hood appeal and i was thinking while im at it i want to relocate my battery to the trunk, and my ignition box and retard module to the glove box (thinking about upgrading to the digital 6 plus from MSD) I was figuring with this box my top end retard would be great and then the module retard for when on spray to back it off another 4-5*.
I have to change my carpet in the car already from regular fatigue...when installing a cage how big of a headache and how clean can it be cuz i try to keep my car as clean as can be eaten off and everything has to flow as if it came from factory that way.

not to jack the thread but.. i heard mechanical roller lifters are a pain on the street...? is this true? iv heard that they make lots of noise and need to adjusted all the time....

They don't make much more noise than a solid lifter F/T cam. Do a search on solid rollers on the street. Alot of good info has been posted.

They don't make much more noise than a solid lifter F/T cam. Do a search on solid rollers on the street. Alot of good info has been posted.

I never noticed one as louder than a solid F/T either, member goat just pulled his out at 30,000K miles or so because on lfter seemed worn but his attributing it to infrequent adjustments, he very rarely adjusted them and drove it everyday to work (80 +/- miles per day)